Nickfromwales Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 18 minutes ago, JSHarris said: It depends. A pressurised cold water system, like we have, doesn't require a Part G3 sign off, and can be done as a DIY job. The same goes for a thermal store hot water system, if the thermal store itself isn't pressurised, and for a Sunamp PV; none need a Part G3 sign off or annual inspection. You only need a Part G3 qualified installer, plus annual inspections, if you fit an pressurised, unvented hot water cylinder. @PeterW, I think my crossed wire just got uncrossed.......cue another call to telford tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 3 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: @PeterW, I think my crossed wire just got uncrossed.......cue another call to telford tomorrow. It's the pressurised volume rule - the heat exchanger coil is the only pressurised part and will be under the volume limit to require a G3 sign off, as I understand it. The bulk of the water in the thermal store will be unpressurised and vented via the header. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 20 minutes ago, JSHarris said: It's the pressurised volume rule - the heat exchanger coil is the only pressurised part and will be under the volume limit to require a G3 sign off, as I understand it. The bulk of the water in the thermal store will be unpressurised and vented via the header. And this is where @Nickfromwales and me got into a discussion about having a sealed thermal store needing G3 sign off ... I think Telford haven’t understood the question the Welsh Wizard asked ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 Nobody understands me....... Actually the whole conversation revolved around a sealed and pressurised TS being used as a buffer, so by the sounds of it, the guy on the other end of the phone may have been half awake. Bugger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike2016 Posted June 21, 2018 Author Share Posted June 21, 2018 Hi Nick, Just on this: "If you NEED an accumulator then it would be best off outside so it stays cold, rather than attain house ( ambient ) temp, and fitted in an outhouse or other frost protected location" Why do you need to keep it cold? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 If you have the accumulator in the house then it'll sit at the ambient temperature, so for eg 18oC + which means that if you dont plumb the house with a separate dedicated cold mains to the kitchen sink / other drinking outlet then you'll never get a cold glass of water from the tap as it'll always be tepid at best. For me, when I open the cold tap to make squash etc I want to run it and for it to go cold, ok if youve got a chiller in the fridge or a boiling / chilled tap, but not ideal if you dont plan on either. All installs are case-specific so each to their own, but I always recommend putting the accumulator in a garage or at least outside the heated envelope to keep the cold mains 'cold'. You can do a separate feed from the main to the kitchen sink, but it causes all sorts of conflicts with un-blanacing the supplies at mixer taps, and is also not really a practical option if you need a softener. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now