August 12Aug 12 Xscuse the mess, while I'm thinking out loud, I'm thinking of building up a block wall at the top of this stair opening, instead of a timber balustrade and newels when I put in the finished staircase. I can cut and tie into the blockwork behind the plasterboard and mortar onto the short bit of block at the end of the steels, but I need to carry on the block to at least the end of the trimmer about 450mm that the staircase will bear onto, so it will carry on over the two steels a little. What I don't know is if this blockwork would be structurally sound enough to satisfy BC, and whether it will stand up to being leant on etc, . Height wise I'll build to 1m. What options would there be for anchoring the block over the steels? Would welding rebar onto the steels and using hollow blocks over with concrete fill be an option or is that bit overkill?
August 12Aug 12 I can see where you are coming from. Avoid blockwork. This is so fraught with tying difficulty. It sounds like you are ok with a solid baluster wall, it's going to look ugly! You should be able to much more easily sort this using a timber solution. As an experiment put two studs up , one attached to the wall to the left of the top of the stair stringer. One in line with the nose of the last tread, line each side and glue ply to that, give it a wobble! Check your BC drawing in case a diligent (no9t pragmatic) BC officer pulls you up about future provision of a stair lift, if applicable to you.
August 13Aug 13 Author @Gus Potter this is what BC signed off... Drawing without protection to the top 2.5 treads... I'll admit I haven't read the regs and I assumed I need guarding. If I need guarding in place, then I would like something that gives a solid wall effect, but only to 1m tall. I'll give your suggestion a go, nothing to lose in trying.
August 13Aug 13 What's the material infilling between the two steels? Could this be removed so you could slot/wedge timber between to effectively add a newel post?
August 13Aug 13 Author Currently stuffed with pir and slc to smooth it out! Was trying to at least look at alternatives to a newel and balustrading. However If we do go the newel and balustrade route then this would be connected to the stringer and fixed onto the trimmer with a short L return into the block wall. I wouldnt need to try and do anything with the steel other than fix some timber/ply to which the flooring and balustrade channel would attach to.
August 13Aug 13 I could've been clearer, I was actually thinking in the context of @Gus Potter's suggestion... 14 hours ago, Gus Potter said: put two studs up , one attached to the wall to the left of the top of the stair stringer. One in line with the nose of the last tread, line each side and glue ply to that, give it a wobble! If one end is fixed to the exisitng wall and the other end is built around a post slotted between the two steels, you'll avoid any wobble. I don't think a solid baluster wall will look bad at all by the way!
August 13Aug 13 cant help but think a newel post on the end and a glass panel between that and the wall might be nice. If not a stud wall into the existing, CT1 on the steels for the footer?
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