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Posted

I've bought the bath and taps and panels for three sides.

Also two bits of 1m x 2.4m wall panel.

Its a 1700 x 700 bath, old one has mould as it was never an over shower job.

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so first Q is if i need wriggle room for taps...is the height of new bath exactly as old? Can i fit a flexy?

Next Q

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Its a long narrow bathroom. 

Replce tile area as is, with wallboard...or

As wallboatd is 2400 x 2000 some other shape?

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finally, wallboard behind bath or butt against top.

its a new straight shower bath, no lip,

no nothing just square 

Posted
13 minutes ago, Tennentslager said:

You're supposed to say it 3 times....... anyhoo :D 

 

So, what we see is getting removed and replaced? You've bought a shower bath? e.g. one that can be stood upright in, and has the correct additional reinforcement etc.

Posted

Aye

But its used daily for disabled son, he likes a soak.

And very occasionally for his support workers who have the odd shower.

Ergo the shower curtain can be out of matey boys way.

Its 90% for him 10% for staff team, how it looks is secondary to function. 

Posted
3 minutes ago, Tennentslager said:

how it looks is secondary to function. 

Agreed, but a bath that's not meant to be stood in moves and flexes a LOT, which causes seals / silicones / grouts to perish and the same issues to repeat themselves.

 

Most baths I fit with shower 'over' them are Trojan Cast. Bombproof. Even if only occasional use as a shower bath, it'll still need to not budge.

 

I always fit a batten along the wall, 2mm shy of where the underside of the bath will be, and set the bath into a fat bead of CT1, and use the same to bond the back edge of the bath to a tanked or primered wall, before sealing again, and then tiling.

Posted

Put a spanner on the hex nut to hold it still, and give it a slight tighten when you're done.

 

The internals of this gate valve may have seized, as these don’t last forever and dislike being in one place forever and then being asked to move.

 

If you’ve got a combi then you’re high pressure hot and cold, and gate valves should be replaced with lever 1/4 turn ball valves.

 

Simple route is to switch off the stopcock to the whole house, drain down, cut the bath pipes and fit speed-fit isolators in , then put the water back on. 

Posted

Its just spinning forever.

Tired to turn off the whole block from the street but kid you not the on street one is 4 feet deep and the standard T key can't reach it.

When I did the wash basin had to cut it the 15mm pipe live and push a speed fit valve in.

That one only oozed out a small amount, the pressure in this one is a lot, the tap fairly pushes out water. Hmmm

 

Posted
17 hours ago, Tennentslager said:

Its just spinning forever.

Tired to turn off the whole block from the street but kid you not the on street one is 4 feet deep and the standard T key can't reach it.

When I did the wash basin had to cut it the 15mm pipe live and push a speed fit valve in.

That one only oozed out a small amount, the pressure in this one is a lot, the tap fairly pushes out water. Hmmm

 

Is this a gravity hot water system? Or have you had a combi boiler conversion?

Posted

Not sure but Glasgow tenements were fully refurbished in the 80s.

This one was replumbed then. The was they did it was to fit all the pipe work on top of existing floorboards, then lay a new floor 6 inch above and fill the space with black gravel type stuff. It's maybe volcanic as its vert light.

Also very common they removed the chimneys and water tanks from the lofts.

So I'm pretty sure its mains fed.

There is a combie boiler but I suspect the bath cold tap is mains fed.

The hot tap goes via the combie but if I turn off stopcock under kitchen sink the hot tap stops running...make sense?

Posted
1 hour ago, Tennentslager said:

Not sure but Glasgow tenements were fully refurbished in the 80s.

This one was replumbed then. The was they did it was to fit all the pipe work on top of existing floorboards, then lay a new floor 6 inch above and fill the space with black gravel type stuff. It's maybe volcanic as its vert light.

Also very common they removed the chimneys and water tanks from the lofts.

So I'm pretty sure its mains fed.

There is a combie boiler but I suspect the bath cold tap is mains fed.

The hot tap goes via the combie but if I turn off stopcock under kitchen sink the hot tap stops running...make sense?

Yup.

 

Stopcock is the boss of all hot and cold now most prob, meaning you don’t (shouldn’t) need to go outside to turn off the rising main.

 

Turn the stopcock off, and open the kitchen hot and cold taps until they run dry.

 

Then, go around opening and closing every other hot and cold outlet in the house, plus flush all toilets and check they’re not refilling, to prove the stopcock is your master water shut off.

 

Give that a whizz and reply back here with the results. 

Posted

Stopcock off

Kitchen taps, no water.

Bathroom no hot.

Cold at bath and basin and cistern all running.

Hot at bath and basin no water.

BTW cistern and basin all have individual valve.

Just realised shower above bath too is still running.

Im going to have to get an extra long key made

Posted
55 minutes ago, Tennentslager said:

Stopcock off

Kitchen taps, no water.

Bathroom no hot.

Cold at bath and basin and cistern all running.

Hot at bath and basin no water.

BTW cistern and basin all have individual valve.

Just realised shower above bath too is still running.

Im going to have to get an extra long key made

Yup. 
 

Or, there’s another (the primary) stopcock in the house that you aren’t aware of.

 

55 minutes ago, Tennentslager said:

Im going to have to get an extra long key made

Just don’t snap the head off the tap. 
 

Have someone in the house with the kitchen sink cold tap open 1/4 of the way, on the phone with you, and the second the water shuts off STOP turning the mains off any tighter. 

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