Floor Probes for Heated Slab

[Spinny]

I have a concrete slab approx 120mm thick with heating pipes embedded in the middle. Controlled using Heatmiser and a wireless thermostat.

 

I will be having levelling compound and LVT laid in a few weeks and am therefore contemplating getting a temperature probe into the top of the concrete slab to provide a continuous monitor of the floor temperature. As I understand it the floor temperature shouldn't rise above 27C for an LVT floor. (Up until now I have just used a temperature gun occaisonally to check the concrete surface temperature).

 

I currently have a floor probe from Fast Warm which terminates in two wires, and a Sonoff zigbee temperature probe which terminates in the zigbee device and small screen.

I also have some small diameter flexible conduit, and some spare u/floor heating pipe from my suspended floor.

(See pic)

I plan to cut or hand chisel (will this work?) a recess into the top of the concrete slab, lay the conduit or pipe in the recess, and chisel it into the plaster to run it up the wall into a cupboard (See pic). Cover the recess/pipe with Ardex 45 and the levelling compound when laid.

 

Any advice please ? Should I use the flexible conduit (more easily bent through 90 to run up the wall but much less robust than the pipe) or the pipe. If the pipe, how can I straighten it and bend it through 90 at the wall ? How important is it to have the temperature probe ? Might the floor crack or move if any heavy furniture is placed on top of the pipe location ?

[JohnMo]

50 minutes ago, Spinny said:

Any advice please

I just wouldn't bother, more tatt sold to people. You going to need high flow temps for a long time to get to 27 degs.

 

What is your heat source and how is it plumbed in to the UFH?

 

Is this a new build or retrofit?

[SteamyTea]

You are going to need something the region of 0.6 kWh/m² to exceed 27°C floor temperature. 

So if your power input is a ridiculously high 100W/m² going to take a 6 hours (this assumes 7°C above ambient).

You can probably just change the flow temperature curve to limit the floor temperature overshoot.

[Spinny]

It is a new rear extension. Two pipe loops into a manifold and the heat source is a gas boiler with a mixing valve of course.

Floor Area about 37 sqm, ceiling height 2.6m, 90mm PIR walls, 150 PIR in warm roof and under slab.

As you can see pipes were not put under the kitchen island or kitchen unit wall area - so maybe 5 or 6sqm unpiped floor area.

The heating has been operational for a couple of years since we had to ditch the original builders. I have had the concrete getting up to 26C with the current settings, but it has often had some protection mats or other coverings over chunks of it. Never really tried to optimise (or calibrate the heatmiser wireless thermostat) as it has been in various unfinished state but now plastered.

 

I have omnie TorFlor2 heating in the suspended floor in the adjoining house.

 

Just thinking if I had a probe then the heating could be arranged to turn off if the floor temperature went above 26C say.