sweet chestnut cladding - opinions please

[marmic]

evening all from a rainy Kent - here comes the mud again!

 

Hit a conundrum! We commence battening Monday and was about to finalise an order for sweet chestnut horizontal cladding couple days ago - decision had been made back in summer to to use a rebated feather edge. BUT,  having picked up the samples again noticed couple splits at rebated end - a section 'peeled off' easily with some small blotchy dark marks in the split. So now concerned about stablity and possible diseased trees from this source? I won't name at this moment in time and am due to speak with them Monday - they have a good reputation so may be able to continue as planned if explainable - but my confidence isn't good at present so going back to the start reviewing options again.

 

We have to use sweet chestnut (as discharged planning) and horizontal

 

The reasons for the decision to use rebated feather edge was visual preference of feather edge but being rebated overall thickness less and sits flatter, and as long as machined at slightly increased moisture content (probably nearly therre again now) it can be racked up without being concerned about expansion gap.  Also a sustainable source.

 

Normal feather edge might be an option, but due to how I've detailed fascia/barge/corners it becomes a headache / may not work - and subject to wider boards in sweet chestut being available for window reveals - albeit could use cladding and joint, but would rather not (windows set back - passivhaus)

 

Shiplap (angled or scalloped) was no.2 choice - thicker too so perhaps more stable, but I'm now concerned about the thin machined sections for the T&G joint.  But sample does seem robust.  Has an expansion gap built in (to joint) so can just be racked up.

 

Half lap - thicker than rebated feather edge again and simple rebates leave thicker sections than shiplap which is feeling far more comfortable - but expansion gaps need to be left. I don't have time to do this myself and we don't want to add risk - the chap who will be fixing for us is more than capable, but I've learnt through the process of this build to keep things as simple as possible as people aren't always as careful as I would be.

 

1.  am I missing any options?

2.  any experiences with different profiles / sweet chestnut please?

3.  any supplier / product recommendations?

4.   any any general opinions out there please?   usually is !!  😆  also with the different profiles the old question of how to fix, what with (stainless for sweet chestnut regardless and predrill), and the old 1 or 2 fixings debate!

 

many thanks...................m

 

 

   

[Russell griffiths]

Have a look at Vastern timbers range of heat treated timbers. 
TBH who will know you used chestnut after a couple of years it will look like any other timber. 
chestnut is well known for splitting, it’s actually used for split railings. 

[saveasteading]

9 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

it will look like any other timber

As I've often said on here. I prefer tanalised pine with a stain. Neutral stain locks in the colour.

A fraction of the cost and can be repaired/ replaced / adapted at any time.

That's just me and my experience on commercial work. The family projects use cedar which goes grey,  because I'm not in charge.