Wall out of plumb - how to line up new pocket door frame?

[finito]

Hi everyone,

 

I’ve opened up a section of wall to install a pocket door, so I had to remove part of the existing wall. After taking it down, I realized that the adjacent door is leaning slightly toward the hallway. This means that if I install my new pocket door frame perfectly plumb, the plasterboard will line up nicely at the top, but will be about 12mm off at the bottom.

 

When the wall was still intact, I hadn’t noticed the lean, so now I’m not sure how best to deal with it.

 

One idea I had was to build the new wall plumb so that it lines up properly at the top with the existing wall. Then, when plastering, I could fill out the gap at the bottom to make up the difference — but I’m not sure if that will end up looking bad.

 

I’ve attached a few photos for reference (check the laser beam). You can see the wall I’m planning to frame. I’ve fixed a 12mm MDF board to the side of a 4x2 stud to represent the thickness of the plasterboard, leaving a small gap at the top for a skim of plaster. However, the gap at the bottom is quite noticeable.

 

I can’t remove the rest of the wall because it’s lath and plaster, and that would be a lot of extra work.

Any suggestions or advice would be really appreciated.

 

Thanks!

 

[markc]

How about build the new bit slightly wider and then over board the existing to get everything plumb and flat

[nod]

I’m currently installing a bunch of pocket doors 

The wall needs to be spot on 

[finito]

1 hour ago, markc said:

4 hours ago, markc said:

How about build the new bit slightly wider and then over board the existing to get everything plumb and flat

 

Yeah, that could be an option, but it would narrow the hallway and I’d still have the same issue — I’d need to make it plumb during plastering anyway.

[finito]

1 hour ago, nod said:

I’m currently installing a bunch of pocket doors 

The wall needs to be spot on 

Do you mean the pocket door wall or the other one? The pocket door wall will be spot on — the problem’s with the bit of the existing wall I’m tying into.

[nod]

21 minutes ago, finito said:

Do you mean the pocket door wall or the other one? The pocket door wall will be spot on — the problem’s with the bit of the existing wall I’m tying into.

I can send you some pictures 

These come as a kit 

But the stud wall Then add the door stud and board across the two 

Weve fitted some to block walls also 

and can be a pain to get right 

The last lot we did where arched around them which gave us some tolerance 

But these are skimmed to the end he So have to be perfect 

[finito]

2 hours ago, nod said:

I can send you some pictures 

These come as a kit 

But the stud wall Then add the door stud and board across the two 

Weve fitted some to block walls also 

and can be a pain to get right 

The last lot we did where arched around them which gave us some tolerance 

But these are skimmed to the end he So have to be perfect 

That would help please. Please DM with some pictures. Thank you

Edited October 14 by finito

[nod]

1 hour ago, finito said:

That would help please. Please DM with some pictures. Thank you

I’m up at that job tomorrow afternoon 

I’ll try and remember 

[Gus Potter]

10 hours ago, finito said:

I’ve opened up a section of wall to install a pocket door, so I had to remove part of the existing wall. After taking it down, I realized that the adjacent door is leaning slightly toward the hallway.

Now the funny thing is that most old houses are off the plumb and 99% are not square. 

 

An example is that you could knock a hole in a old wall, put in double (French type) doors and fit the frame out of plumb. If you do that then the doors can "take on a life of their own" and shut themselves or open. But with sliding doors that won't happen. 

 

So think.. if they are out of plumb will that stop them from operating? 

 

If you fit them plumb then you'll have to marry in the plaster etc as you say.

 

Have a look on the internet about how you heal and toe doors, a door fitting carpretery skill. 

 

It's ok if things are not plumb.. you just need to identify if it matters and try and avoid unessesary work. 

 

"Dry fit" the doors out of plumb, see if they work and look ok first. If not pack out and fix the plaster. 

 

 

 

 

[finito]

13 hours ago, nod said:

I’m up at that job tomorrow afternoon 

I’ll try and remember 

Thanks

[finito]

11 hours ago, Gus Potter said:

Now the funny thing is that most old houses are off the plumb and 99% are not square. 

 

An example is that you could knock a hole in a old wall, put in double (French type) doors and fit the frame out of plumb. If you do that then the doors can "take on a life of their own" and shut themselves or open. But with sliding doors that won't happen. 

 

So think.. if they are out of plumb will that stop them from operating? 

 

If you fit them plumb then you'll have to marry in the plaster etc as you say.

 

Have a look on the internet about how you heal and toe doors, a door fitting carpretery skill. 

 

It's ok if things are not plumb.. you just need to identify if it matters and try and avoid unessesary work. 

 

"Dry fit" the doors out of plumb, see if they work and look ok first. If not pack out and fix the plaster. 

 

 

 

 

I know — it’s such a pain with old houses! Drives me crazy. The instructions clearly state that the frame needs to be plumb for the door to operate properly. I’m not sure if the door would open or close on its own if it’s not plumb, but it’s definitely best to get it right the first time.

If I pack it out and leave the plastering to the pro, do you think that would be an easy job for a plasterer? I’d like to give them the best wall possible 😄