Garage Stud Wall

[markagoodger]

Hello,

I have decided to try and build a stud wall perimeter inside my double garage to better use it as a home workshop.

I have zero experience in this, just basic woodworking skills. 

 

My intended outcome of this is was;

A) A clean consistent look that I can use for storage / Cabinets / French cleats etc. for my workshop

B) Soundproof

C) Temperature control

 

I have read various forums, comments and watch some YouTube tutorials, but I would appreciate any advice you have for me on the following questions I have just before I begin.

 

1. Does the attached design generally look ok, Is there an unnecessary layer or an obvious omission?
2. Do I need to add a specific vapour barrier (red highlight on diagram A)? Or will the foiled PIR be sufficient.
3. I don’t currently have an air gap. Is this a mistake?
4. Is it better to build the stud frame on the floor then lift into position (where possible), or is it ok to build-in-place as it’s a bit fiddly?
5. If I do build-in-place, do I just attach the DPM directly to the concrete wall first, using Christmas Clips etc? If I build on floor, I presume I can just staple to rear side of the frame before lifting.

 

Thank you in advance for any help.

Mark

[Mr Punter]

Hello Mark and welcome.

 

In the plan section you do not need the DPM.  If you really want something, you could add breather membrane.  Leave a 25-50mm gap between the studwork and the brick wall.  Add a polythene vapour barrier where you have shown.  On the floor you may want a layer of EPS or PIR, then T & G chipboard floating floor.  Easier to clean and more comfortable.  This will probably be easier to build in place.  You could also insulate the ceiling, but that may be a hassle.  If this is for frequent use and / or it gets damp, add some ventilation.

[andyscotland]

50 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

In the plan section you do not need the DPM.  If you really want something, you could add breather membrane. 

 

I think you do need a DPM (or at least DPC strips between the timber and the brick) as it is drawn, assuming this is a single skin wall.

 

Unless you do this:

50 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

Leave a 25-50mm gap between the studwork and the brick wall. 

 

The other option would be to use a continuous layer of PIR on 25mm roofing battens on DPC strips, like this detail for eco-liner https://www.insulationbee.co.uk/72-5mm-ecotherm-eco-liner-rigid-pir-dry-lining-insulated-plasterboard-for-fix-and-dab-applications but a second layer of battens over the PIR (screwed through to the battens behind) to carry the OSB.

 

This has fewer PIR joints to cut & foam, so may be easier to build and have less thermal bridging. Also fewer penetrations of the VCL (the battens only need fixed every 500mm or so). And gives you a service cavity for any wiring etc if you care about hiding that away.

 

Bear in mind that PIR is efficient for heat insulation but not particularly effective for noise insulation: if that's your priority then a detail based on acoustic fibre or cellulose would be worth exploring.

 

 

[markagoodger]

Thank you Mr Punter. - yes, someone else mentioned to me that perhaps a 25mm air gap to the bricks could be sufficient. I was starting to think I may end up creating more problems by overdoing it.  For the flooring, yes absolutely, I probably should do that at the same time but I just wanted to focus on walls then floors. I quite like the idea of just using those stable mats that some others have tried too.

 

AndyScotland : I 'think' its a double skin wall, will check in the morning. I've never really noticed any damp coming through.

I like the look of those 2-in-1 boards, had no idea they existed, thank you.

Soundproofing - right ok, perhaps I should actually just ask my neighbours how bad it is for them at the moment. I suspect that the metal garage door is the main sound leak anyway.

[andyscotland]

9 hours ago, markagoodger said:

I like the look of those 2-in-1 boards, had no idea they existed, thank you.

I wasn't necessarily suggesting using them. The downside IMO is it's harder to get a good airtight/vapour-tight seal between boards. It's also harder to fix things to them - most plasterboard fixings assume a cavity behind the board, and will be harder/impossible to get them to spread out properly if the board is backed by insulation. Plus removing/moving things on plasterboard leaves a mess. If you want a tool wall/cleats etc then OSB or ply would give you a lot more flexibility.

 

9 hours ago, markagoodger said:

Soundproofing - right ok, perhaps I should actually just ask my neighbours how bad it is for them at the moment. I suspect that the metal garage door is the main sound leak anyway.

Yes, I suspect it will be.

[saveasteading]

Love the drawings. Almost art.

 

Making on the ground is normally far easier, esp for getting a vapour barrier on the back. BUT in a tight space probably not as it would be difficult to swing up.

[andyscotland]

1 hour ago, saveasteading said:

Love the drawings. Almost art.

 

Making on the ground is normally far easier, esp for getting a vapour barrier on the back. BUT in a tight space probably not as it would be difficult to swing up.

 

One option for that is to use a double top plate. Build the panel on the ground with a single top plate with a good length of excess membrane overhanging the top. Swing it up & position it, then slide the second top plate into the gap between the panel and the overhanging membrane (so you end up with the membrane behind and over the top - then just cut off the excess). You can insert a couple of packers between the two top plates if needed get a tight fit.

 

If the height is still too low for that you can also use a double sole plate. Fix it to the floor, swing the panel up beside it, then lift it on, then do the top plate trick as above. This obviously means having to lift the weight of the whole stud wall although you could build it in sections if necessary.

 

This does of course increase the timber fraction/reduce insulation of the wall slightly.

[saveasteading]

Does it need a sole plate? There is no provision of levels required.

Swing up the panel, screw to the floor, pack to the ceiling as @andyscotland.

a few blocks might suffice fixed up....somehow.

Mineral wool better than foam board for sound reduction, but the gap will be helping a lot too.

If this is a party wall there shouldn't be any damp.