cooking extractor

[LLL]

I’m planning to drill a hole in the kitchen wall to vent cooking smoke outside. The hole will be located near the corner of the wall, approximately 50–60 cm from a window frame. It will likely be 100–150 mm in diameter. This is the ground floor and the right side of the wall is another room. Are there any structural concerns I should be aware of? thanks 

 

[Mr Punter]

These work much better if located above the hob, but I guess that is on an internal wall with no easy ducting route?  A 160mm diameter hole with a core drill will be best.

[JohnMo]

Why not keep it sorted of simple. Recirculating cooker hood, then a dMEV in an appropriate easy to install place.

[LLL]

1 hour ago, Mr Punter said:

These work much better if located above the hob, but I guess that is on an internal wall with no easy ducting route?  A 160mm diameter hole with a core drill will be best.

Indeed, the back of the hob is another room, which is not possible. 

[LLL]

1 hour ago, JohnMo said:

Why not keep it sorted of simple. Recirculating cooker hood, then a dMEV in an appropriate easy to install place.

thank you, do you think this solution is as good as the external solution? 

[Spinny]

Structurally you would want to check which way the joists run in the ceiling above and where they are positioned.

If there is a joist running across the room with the end bedded into and supported by the wall that has the window in it, and the joist is above the hole you plan to make, you might end up cutting out masonry supporting the end of the joist.

 

Also look for any electrical sockets or switches etc which might be vertically below your planned hole, as sometimes electrical cabling can be run vertically down the wall behind the plaster to feed the electrical point or switch.

[JohnMo]

10 minutes ago, LLL said:

thank you, do you think this solution is as good as the external solution? 

The recirculated cooker hood we have has worked well. It's is very often off and not needed with continuous background ventilation. We have MVHR, but the dMEV fan would perform the same job.

 

If you go this route get a Greenwood CV2 or CV3. There are really very quiet and easy to set up and will boost automatically based on rising humidity. Generally pretty cheap on eBay.

[LLL]

1 hour ago, Spinny said:

Structurally you would want to check which way the joists run in the ceiling above and where they are positioned.

If there is a joist running across the room with the end bedded into and supported by the wall that has the window in it, and the joist is above the hole you plan to make, you might end up cutting out masonry supporting the end of the joist.

 

Also look for any electrical sockets or switches etc which might be vertically below your planned hole, as sometimes electrical cabling can be run vertically down the wall behind the plaster to feed the electrical point or switch.

thanks for the professional advice, this is something I did not think of, I only worry that it is too close to the window and may break the beam on the top, but if it is 50-6cm away, I thought that is fine. regarding the joist, I thought if the hole is very close to the wall, see the pic, there should be no joist? 

[Spinny]

46 minutes ago, LLL said:

thanks for the professional advice

I ain't no pro. I am an innocent lost in a building maze trying to find the way out.

Lintels over doors and windows usually project about 150mm beyond the opening itself, so going say 200mm away is likely to be ok. But if you did hit a lintel you would notice and stop. Gently drilling a small hole with a drill could be used to see if a given point is clear of the lintel.

Just worth checking joists - take a floor board up upstairs ? or use a screw detector to look for plasterboard screws into the joist, or tap the ceiling to see where it is and isn't  hollow, or do like my sparky in the photo and drill baby drill.

If the joists run the other way you should be OK anyway.

 

Edited June 13 by Spinny