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Balancing rads help.....


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11 minutes ago, Dee said:

The second image are the style I have.

I'll look into those valves...thanks for a great peice of info and advice!

Not a problem - you shouldn’t need diverters for those rads (OK they are column rads by name but not in the modern sense)

 

Just for giggles this was the view into the bottom tube of the column rad in my bathroom  (first picture)

IMG_4584.thumb.jpeg.cc3d0f8653784849f83293d5427ab8fd.jpeg

 

So poor manufacturing tolerances meant opportunity for water to go straight thro from flow in to return out rather than be forced up the columns 

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4 hours ago, Dee said:

Marshian.....so which of the 3 valves you mentioned would you use now?


@Dee Use the @ before a users name to tag someone (they get a notification they’ve been mentioned) and you should get a drop down to pick from

 

If I was doing it again I would use the flow setting (auto balancing type) by either Drayton (I use Wiser TRV’s but they work also with conventional Drayton TRV’s)


good explanation here

 

 

or the Danfoss equivalent

 

Either may accept your existing TRV Heads with adaptors (not sure if they are compatible or not)

 

good explanation of the Danfoss valves here

 

 

Fundamentally they both do the same thing - allow you to set up specific flow rates to individual rads that are not affected by system pressure changes (like when TRV heads start intervening in the circuit)


Both types work with the lockshield valve wide open

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So……they’re not actually auto-balancing then as they each require full mechanical (human) commissioning? I’m failing to see the benefit, sorry, and think it is much easier (for a newbie in particular) to get to the best result with balancing via the existing lock shield valve.

The latter is also the obvious choice in an existing install where you have the TRV’s (regular, serviceable ones) and do not want to make any changes.

 

@Dee, best to save your pennies and do this in one hit in the summer, as suggested above. Then you can take your time.

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1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said:

So……they’re not actually auto-balancing then as they each require full mechanical (human) commissioning? I’m failing to see the benefit, sorry, and think it is much easier (for a newbie in particular) to get to the best result with balancing via the existing lock shield valve.

 

Less effort than setting up a radiator circuit from scratch - Main difference is that each one can be set up with the correct flow rate before fitting

 

Setting up with a lock shield depends on how good (or how much valve authority) your lock shields are (or have)

 

 

Precis - Some lock shields are utter garbage very few are excellent - I looked at buying the IMI ones but the EB4 bodies with 6 settings was cheaper

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4 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

So……they’re not actually auto-balancing then as they each require full mechanical (human) commissioning? I’m failing to see the benefit, sorry, and think it is much easier (for a newbie in particular) to get to the best result with balancing via the existing lock shield valve.

The latter is also the obvious choice in an existing install where you have the TRV’s (regular, serviceable ones) and do not want to make any changes.

 

@Dee, best to save your pennies and do this in one hit in the summer, as suggested above. Then you can take your time.

You use an app which tells you what setting to use based on the size and type of radiator.

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I've calculated that it will cost £450 to change all valves and it's too costly in one hit. I'll persevere with manual balancing as too much could go wrong with my limited knowledge!

Those last two rads are about 20m from the boiler and the heat/ pressure/power just doesn't seem to be enough to get there....no oomph!

Someone suggested the expansion tank might be too small??

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1 hour ago, Dee said:

I've calculated that it will cost £450 to change all valves and it's too costly in one hit. I'll persevere with manual balancing as too much could go wrong with my limited knowledge!

Those last two rads are about 20m from the boiler and the heat/ pressure/power just doesn't seem to be enough to get there....no oomph!

Someone suggested the expansion tank might be too small??

It only takes a few rads stealing a little too much flow to starve the furthest rads - benefits of those flow setting valves is that the flow is fixed at exactly what the rooms/rads need and no more.

 

how much do you value your time?

 

how much grief do you get for the rooms that aren’t getting warm 

 

Fully open circuit in my house and the pump is moving 0.5 m3/hr and that’s being shared out across 13 rads in a system with a total volume of 150 Litres (excluding HW)

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