Pocster Posted September 12, 2024 Posted September 12, 2024 Custom door frame . Left and right 50mm of play Top though no play . Company and myself measured via FaceTime so not sure who is liable ! Concrete lintel at the top so no joy there My options are only 1 that I can see . That header piece needs maybe 5mm sheared off it . I can’t take lining apart as glued . How can I sheer it ? Multi tool will take forever and be a right bodge !!
joe90 Posted September 12, 2024 Posted September 12, 2024 Can you not remove 5 mm from the bottom of the verticals? Door.?
Pocster Posted September 12, 2024 Author Posted September 12, 2024 (edited) 1 minute ago, joe90 said: Can you not remove 5 mm from the bottom of the verticals? Door.? Nope because the door won’t fit . There’s zero play height wise . Plane the top whilst swearing ? Edited September 12, 2024 by Pocster
Pocster Posted September 12, 2024 Author Posted September 12, 2024 1 minute ago, joe90 said: Door The doors all nice and laminated even around the ends ( fire door ) no way I can do that and it looks good .
joe90 Posted September 12, 2024 Posted September 12, 2024 (edited) Why can’t you remove 5mm from the bottom of the door? Ah just seen above!!!! Edited September 12, 2024 by joe90
joe90 Posted September 12, 2024 Posted September 12, 2024 (edited) Did you not confirm dimensions in writing that you have a record of? Edited September 12, 2024 by joe90 1
Pocster Posted September 12, 2024 Author Posted September 12, 2024 1 hour ago, joe90 said: Did you not confirm dimensions in writing that you have a record of? Ummm ermmm I’m not very good at measuring things as you know !!! Probably … who knows ….
Pocster Posted September 12, 2024 Author Posted September 12, 2024 1 hour ago, joe90 said: Why can’t you remove 5mm from the bottom of the door? Ah just seen above!!!! Because my skills are shit @joe90 !
joe90 Posted September 12, 2024 Posted September 12, 2024 You could plane the 5mm off (electric planer) or use a concrete grinder on an angle grinder to remove 5mm from the lintel but this will make a real mess. Using an electric planer allows you to set depth of cut (max 3mm usually) so several cuts. How are you going to finish the ceiling next to the lintel? 1
Pocster Posted September 12, 2024 Author Posted September 12, 2024 17 minutes ago, joe90 said: How are you going to finish the ceiling next to the lintel? Don’t know yet haven’t made that bit up
Pocster Posted September 12, 2024 Author Posted September 12, 2024 (edited) Think company are going to give me another head Edited September 12, 2024 by Pocster Lucky me 1
Onoff Posted September 12, 2024 Posted September 12, 2024 Deja vu! At least it doesn't leak. Will it end up skipped?
Onoff Posted September 12, 2024 Posted September 12, 2024 Decent make, brand new, 1/2" router bit against a fence will make a dead straight, razor sharp clean edge on the bottom of the door. Better than a planed edge. 1
Pocster Posted September 12, 2024 Author Posted September 12, 2024 30 minutes ago, Onoff said: Decent make, brand new, 1/2" router bit against a fence will make a dead straight, razor sharp clean edge on the bottom of the door. Better than a planed edge. Too much work
G and J Posted September 12, 2024 Posted September 12, 2024 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Decent make, brand new, 1/2" router bit against a fence will make a dead straight, razor sharp clean edge on the bottom of the door. Better than a planed edge. +1 1 hour ago, Pocster said: Too much work But you don’t have to do it, you could get a chippy to do it. Take the door to them, shouldn’t cost much at all. But once you start playing with a router you may well become addicted to the precision, accuracy, and the finish. 1
Pocster Posted September 12, 2024 Author Posted September 12, 2024 Just now, G and J said: But once you start playing with a router you may well become addicted to the precision, accuracy, and the finish. Or I become addicted to my shagged door .
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