Garald Posted June 4 Author Share Posted June 4 42 minutes ago, JohnMo said: You may actually be better heating the whole house and not leaving rooms cold. They will just be sucking heat from the rest of the house, requiring other room to have more heat added to compensate, require a higher flow temp to compensate and lower the CoP. We have a summer house connected to our heating system and it gets used in the mornings throughout the year, I was using a setback temperature (afternoon and night), but ended up using more energy as the heat pump ran flat out trying to heat up after the setback period. Ended setting at the same temperature all the time electric consumption dropped. The less complicated it is, usually the better it is. Well, the guest room is downstairs, and the only other spaces downstairs are the entrance, a laundry closet, and an unheated ex-garage. Since hot air naturally flows upwards, downstairs "wants" to be a little colder, and I do not see an obvious reason not to let it be a bit colder when unused (17C? 16C?). At any rate, that's a side issue. Say I do heat everything all the time. Then what makes sense is to 1. have the thermostat (for the heat pump) in the room that tends to be coldest 2. have the valve fully open there 3. have thermostatic valves elsewhere, no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMo Posted June 4 Share Posted June 4 If your bouncing of the thermostat your WC curve is set too high. Believe your have a mitsubishi ASHP, there is a setting to take room temperature compensation, to change the flue temperature automatically. You should set your curve to get the coldest room up to temp, the use the thermostatic valves to modulate flow to radiators in the warmer rooms. With WC the thermostat is really a secondary control not the prime controller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garald Posted June 4 Author Share Posted June 4 8 hours ago, JohnMo said: Believe your have a mitsubishi ASHP, there is a setting to take room temperature compensation, to change the flue temperature automatically. Exactly; that's what I do. 8 hours ago, JohnMo said: You should set your curve to get the coldest room up to temp, the use the thermostatic valves to modulate flow to radiators in the warmer rooms. With WC the thermostat is really a secondary control not the prime controller. That's what I am suggesting. No need to install a thermostat in the coldest room then - the valve there will be fully open (precisely so that the heat pump will not choose too high a flow temperature). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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