DIWye Posted December 13, 2023 Share Posted December 13, 2023 Hello! About to start plumbing the ensuite in the extension and I'd like to get your thoughts on my current plan. Haven't done much of this before, so I wouldn't be surprised if I'm going to try and do something wrong or if there is a better/simpler way of doing it. Apologies for the rough sketch but hopefully shows the gist of it. Ensuite with toilet, basin and shower. I'm thinking of running the basin to the toilet in 32mm and then toilet runs 110mm pipe between the joists to the front elevation of the house before dropping to the rest bend. Was going to use some builders band to support the pipe as it runs between the joists. Bits I'm unsure about are: - Is the T joint for the 'horizontal' 110mm to the vertical okay? Or is this too sharp? - My current plan is to run the shower waste into the 110 pipe using a solvent weld boss using 40mm pipe. Is this okay to do into a horizontal pipe? Not really sure how else I could do it - Can I use an AAV in the wardrobe rather than running a vent pipe through the roof? The architect had put down a vent pipe, but I was hoping I could maybe get away with an AAV. There is already an SVP in the bathroom in the house (the bathroom joins the main line between the house and the septic tank further 'upstream' - dont know if that makes a difference), so it is vented somewhere - Is there a better way of supporting the 110mm pipe? What do you think? Anything you'd change/avoid? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conor Posted December 13, 2023 Share Posted December 13, 2023 Nowt wrong with that. Use proper 110mm pipe brackets rather than builders band. For the boss from the shower, you'll find due to the depth of the trap and the position of the 110mm pipe, it'll probably be in a horizontal position, rather than vertical as you've described. Aim for a 1:40 or better fall in the soil pipe. Basin and shower pipes can be any angle (other than flat or backwards!) AAV is completely fine. As long as it's higher that the highest trap. You can box it in, but should be left accessible as they can sometimes stick and stop working. The building control documents are a really good guide for the do's and don'ts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted December 13, 2023 Share Posted December 13, 2023 8 minutes ago, Conor said: You can box it in But leaving big gaps for air admittance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted December 13, 2023 Share Posted December 13, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, DIWye said: Is the T joint for the 'horizontal' 110mm to the vertical okay? Or is this too sharp? Notice it’s a swept junction (just get it the right way up) https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-92-5-double-socket-branch-grey-110mm/12454 you could always use the side boss on that to run your shower into!!! Edited December 13, 2023 by joe90 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conor Posted December 13, 2023 Share Posted December 13, 2023 2 hours ago, saveasteading said: But leaving big gaps for air admittance. Yeah, our BCO wanted a gap under the shelf that was covering it, to allow air in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DIWye Posted December 13, 2023 Author Share Posted December 13, 2023 Amazing, thanks all for the speedy feedback. Saves me having to rip up the slates we put on in the summer for an SVP! Great point about using the side boss on the T - I'll let you know how I get on 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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