Door Linings: Fixing placement

[MortarThePoint]

There is quite a handy guide for installing door linings: https://www.juliancassell.com/2564/fitting-a-door-lining

 

One question left open though is screw placement for 5 pairs of screws in each leg. Vertically, evenly spaced makes some sense with one 50mm - 75mm from each end. Is there the risk of clashing with hinge placement, or that's always cut on site so you can tune for wherever the lining fixings are? 75mm at each end would make a lining for 1981mm door (2010mm leg) at 75, 540, 1005, 1470, and 1935.

 

Horizontally, it gets more complicated. I have FD30 linings with a groove for the intumescent strip (starts 15mm in from edge and is 15mm wide). They're in blockwork walls. I'm probably trimming down from a depth of 132mm to 124m using a jointer as my plasterer wants them smaller, but that needs to be on the non-strip side. The timber stop that gets added later (not shown below would likely overlap the screw heads slightly, but that should be OK.

 

I am thinking of using 7.5x102mm Frame screws (link) or 5.0x100mm screws (links) and plugs (brown or red).

Edited April 13, 2023 by MortarThePoint

[MortarThePoint]

@joe90 you mentioned in another thread you used screws hidden by the stop. We're there any issues not having pairs of screws? How many did you use on each leg? Did you go with wood screws and plugs?

[joe90]

13 minutes ago, MortarThePoint said:

@joe90 you mentioned in another thread you used screws hidden by the stop. We're there any issues not having pairs of screws? How many did you use on each leg? Did you go with wood screws and plugs?

Yes but only ones that side of the frame, pairs are a must to stop frame cupping (IMO). yes woodscrews and rawlplugs and at least four pairs each side.

yes your diagram above would put the left hand screw under (or near) the jam I guess. Never used concrete screws but the torx heads are brilliant. I do not like thermal blocks of any description and find trying to get a decent fixing into them difficult.

Edited April 13, 2023 by joe90

[Dave Jones]

i find the fischer hammer in fixings are really strong for fixing liners to blocks.

 

https://www.fischer.co.uk/en-gb/products/frame-fixings/hammerfix-n/hammerfix-n-s

 

 

[MortarThePoint]

14 hours ago, joe90 said:

Yes but only ones that side of the frame, pairs are a must to stop frame cupping (IMO). yes woodscrews and rawlplugs and at least four pairs each side.

yes your diagram above would put the left hand screw under (or near) the jam I guess. Never used concrete screws but the torx heads are brilliant. I do not like thermal blocks of any description and find trying to get a decent fixing into them difficult.

 

Another silly question. I don't need to adjust their height do I. Just checking they don't come with extra. The legs are 2010mm. That feels about right for 1981 doors assuming. 2010-1981=29mm. Allowing 4mm at the top allows 25mm at the bottom. That needs to accommodate underlay and carpet as well as a small gap.

[joe90]

2 hours ago, MortarThePoint said:

Another silly question.

No such thing as a silly question, silly is not asking 🤷‍♂️

Sounds about right, you can always trim the door a little if required, not so easy to add.

[MortarThePoint]

8 hours ago, Dave Jones said:

i find the fischer hammer in fixings are really strong for fixing liners to blocks.

 

https://www.fischer.co.uk/en-gb/products/frame-fixings/hammerfix-n/hammerfix-n-s

 

 

Could have done with those on the engineering bricks.

[MortarThePoint]

The stops for the door lining are huge (32mm x 25mm) so are going to look a little strange compared to what I am used to.

 

On 13/04/2023 at 20:25, joe90 said:

yes your diagram above would put the left hand screw under (or near) the jam I guess.

 

I've updated the diagram for the full (un trimmed) 132mm door lining as well as adding the door and stop. The outside of the door is quite far recessed relative to the lining which would additionally have architrave on. I have four doors in a row along a corridor and all the door linings should be lined up. I was planning to trim down (10mm) one of the door lining's depth to make the plaster thickness more sensible (only have to do it on one). That would have the effect of pulling the door outwards compared to the other doors by the amount trimmed off the lining (10mm). That could look bad so leaves me with a couple of options:

1. Don't trim down the door lining and have some fat plaster.
2. Set the doors of the other rooms slightly further outward to lessen the impact. That could look bad as it would make the surfaces of the door and the lining not line up on the inside and look funny

 

Normal:

 

If door pulled outwards:

Edited April 16, 2023 by MortarThePoint

[joe90]

If you recess the doors like the lower diagram the door will only open 90’ before the door hits the frame and this could pull the hinge screws out!!,! IMO the outside of the door must be parallel with outside of the frame as per the top diagram.

[MortarThePoint]

Went route 1, making average plaster depth 18.5mm. that means two coats of HardWall on about 40m2 of wall. Based on 3m2 per bag at 11mm, that's an extra 9 bags. Backboxes on those walls will be quite recessed.