I'm scheming the kitchen.

 

Is it daft to consider a non-quooker tap for a quooker?

 

 

We are on a borehole with water that has plenty of iron in it.

 

Whole house water will definitely get a de-ironing filter. (inject air, oxidise iron to brown gunge, filter out the iron)

 

These tanks will be insulated somewhat to reduce condensation. (borehole water is at a chilly 5C pretty much year round)

 

 

For drinking water there will likely be an additional filter set under the sink. These have a piddly flowrate (of the order 10L/hour into an expansion vessel)

 

There will also be a Quooker because I fancied one in place of a kettle. This could be filled from the drinking water unit.

 

 

Taps options are therefore:

 

Mixer with:

- de-ironed cold water from a fat pipe (for pot washing flowrate)

- de-ironed hot water from a skinny pipe from the cylinder (for response time)

 

Quooker tap with:

- de-ironed boiling water picked up off that cold pipe above or the drinking tap ouput

 

Drinking tap with:

- de-ironed and filtered cold water picked up from a skinny pipe from de-ironing tank (for response time/coolth)

 

 

Or:

 

Tap 1 (regular mixer) for regular hot/cold water

 

Tap 2 (2* 1/4-turn handle mixer) for drinkable boiling/cold water

 

 

Safety of there being no interlock on the boiling tap aside; would regular cartridges survive the boiling water? Pressure on the older style Quooker tanks is of the order 8 bar. Temperature 108C until released.

 

 

As an aside their new tanks apparently don't need the inlet combination any more - the tank has a built in bellows to handle the expansion which is neat. Unclear what the operating pressure on those is.

 

https://www.all-salts.co.uk/post/quooker-pro3b-boiler-tank-update

 

 

Tap aside you should be treating the water for iron before it enters the house. You just need a backwashing iron reduction filter. Followed by a small 10 and 5 micron filter and a UV filter. Do it right you won't need any other filters.