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Should I change what the SE has recomended?


Warrentdo

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Hello, please can anyone scan over the following?

I'm looking at detailing up the design of a warm flat roof conservatory steelwork for sliding doors (on left) and upgrade to existing steelwork (on right).

The SE has suggested the minimum requirement (in green) but it leave gaps to fill in (wall plate) for Ceiling 2400 from FFL and top of door is 2100

I also have concerns fixing a wall plate above the new steel on the right.

I've change steels to larger one's to fill the gaps, but do I need a wall plate and if not how do i fix the timber to the steel?

I would still have to fix the timber to the steel work / or ?  in any option.

The new steel in existing houses would have plate plate to sit the trimming plate but I would still have to fix to wall so not sure if my upgrade makes any sense!

Although timber joist will take the roof I also have a steel frame to support a roof light so second option would help with that also.

I will of course ask SE to choose suitable 305 beams if that's the way to go

 

Any thoughts?

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Warren.

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I'm not sure why you made the steels deeper just to fill a gap. That would make them more expensive and harder to fix any issues on site.

 

I would speak to the sliding door company and ask what they want above the door to fix into. It might be they prefer you to raise that steel and put a wood beam below it to fix the door track to?  

 

It might be possible to raise the other steel and fix the wall plate to the side. If they are the same height one option is to fill in the web with timber and fix joist hangers to that. You can get them with long tails that go up over the beam and down the other side fixing into the infill timber on both sides.

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Ah that makes more sense. I would still check this is OK with the door company.

 

Think I would ask the SE what the ? can be. I think it could be timber but in many cases brick or block walls are just mortared on top of steel. 

 

One other issue occurs to me.. is your house rendered? If not you might need a cavity tray in the wall above the height of the flat roof? 

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4 minutes ago, Temp said:

Ah that makes more sense. I would still check this is OK with the door company. -Email sent 🙂

 

Think I would ask the SE what the ? can be. I think it could be timber but in many cases brick or block walls are just mortared on top of steel. - only issue is I only have one course (well 105, brick on edge :-) and the weight of the roof to stop it moving.

 

One other issue occurs to me.. is your house rendered? If not you might need a cavity tray in the wall above the height of the flat roof? - Yes I will need a cavity tray above both beams.

 

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Better to have a timber wall plate fixed to the top. Otherwise you need to figure out a way of attaching X number of timber joists to a steel beam. 

 

Beam under the masonry can be packed out with brick and dry pack mortar - lot cheaper than more steel. 

 

Making beams bigger isn't necessarily straightforward, while in general deeper means stiffer, that is only definite in the major axis... they can be more slender which can be an issue with torsion resistance (for the bi-fold door underside plate) and lateral stability (for the beam below the wall) . 

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You can screw a wood wall plate to the steel with self tapping screws, or drill through and place a timber in the web and screw the two together with the flange as a sandwich.

Cobolt drills are your friend here.

I would think the door company would use tec screws or baypole screws into the steel.

Why introduce timber here?

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