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Advice needed


Kgthomas

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36 minutes ago, Carrerahill said:

Given the price of steel, and the added complexity of building with steel portals, I would still build in block. Block prices have stayed about the same, as has sand and cement so I think. 6" block with piers within the long walls will make for a solid garage.

 

One piece of advice on the piers, plan their location! I didn't and now have some annoying splits in my racking where I need to end the racks, have wasted space, then a pier, then start the racking again. Also try and plan piers to align with things like roof trusses. I have 4 trusses and purlins to have a more open feeling garage with a big open roof area, it does look good and gives loads of height for moving big bits of wood and things about and the ability for me to suspend bikes etc.

 

 


Yes I agree the price of steel in increasing quite a bit but block has stayed steady. So think given that and the extra issues with adding steel, think I agree 6” block walls and then roof makes more sense, that was my original plan until I was told I’d have issues with damp. 
 

Makes sense about planning where the piers will be to allow for racking etc. Need to think about that too. 
 

Thanks again

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17 hours ago, joe90 said:

Yes, as per building regs. I believe a max of 3 mtrs between piers is lowed In a 100mm wall but piers not required if 150mm blocks are used. (You may need to check this with building control).

Building regs I believe is Height equal to no more than 16 x wall thickness so 150 block and would allow 2.4m high without pillars. At 8 x 11m I would personally build a side to side partition wall or 2 which would help stop wall spread... room for a bar etc and ready for the annex conversion as well. A friend recently bought steel frame building and Building control made him dig out padstones and make larger  1m x 1m and 600mm deep, said it was wind load on long side of building.

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15 hours ago, gravelrash said:

Building regs I believe is Height equal to no more than 16 x wall thickness so 150 block and would allow 2.4m high without pillars. At 8 x 11m I would personally build a side to side partition wall or 2 which would help stop wall spread... room for a bar etc and ready for the annex conversion as well. A friend recently bought steel frame building and Building control made him dig out padstones and make larger  1m x 1m and 600mm deep, said it was wind load on long side of building.


Good to know about the 16x wall thickness for being without piers. Happy to have piers in it. 
Wanting to avoid putting partition walls in it as it is for use as a garage and if I did put a partition wall in it would be very close to one of the end so would still end up with a long wall with no partitions. Hopefully the piers will be sufficient

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24 minutes ago, gravelrash said:

I would make sure you brace roof trusses to walls well


Definitely, that is my concern and was why I had considered having the roof on a steel frame extending to the slab. Though then the weight is more on isolated spots rather than spread and has the issues of rendering the block and steel. 

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3 hours ago, gravelrash said:

I would make sure you brace roof trusses to walls well

Easy to do with these, it’s what I did, the spec came with the roof trusses, although I have a 700mm overhang both sides of my garage and live in an exposed site close to the Atlantic these latest storms failed to move it 👍

https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-heavy-duty-restraint-straps-10-pack/74769

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13 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Easy to do with these, it’s what I did, the spec came with the roof trusses, although I have a 700mm overhang both sides of my garage and live in an exposed site close to the Atlantic these latest storms failed to move it 👍

https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-heavy-duty-restraint-straps-10-pack/74769

 

Good to know, especially that the storms didn't move it. I live at the bottom of a mountain range and the house is in a dip between 2 hills, so do tend to get some wind coming through. Is your garage roof made from steel also? If so why do you have the overhang on both sides? Thanks

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8 minutes ago, Kgthomas said:

 

Good to know, especially that the storms didn't move it. I live at the bottom of a mountain range and the house is in a dip between 2 hills, so do tend to get some wind coming through. Is your garage roof made from steel also? If so why do you have the overhang on both sides? Thanks

The overhang at the back is to store logs and at the front to stop rain driving in if I have to work with the door open. Also the overhang allowed me to build under permitted development (eaves height) and hide the roller Door mechanism higher to allow vans to get in.

 

9117E38B-CD6C-4E54-8EAC-CB8C9E649281.jpeg

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19 minutes ago, joe90 said:

The overhang at the back is to store logs and at the front to stop rain driving in if I have to work with the door open. Also the overhang allowed me to build under permitted development (eaves height) and hide the roller Door mechanism higher to allow vans to get in.

 

9117E38B-CD6C-4E54-8EAC-CB8C9E649281.jpeg

 

Thanks, that makes a lot of sense about the overhangs and looks well constructed. 

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