Blinds that are compatible with Loxone

[sean1933]

On 28/11/2023 at 10:21, joth said:

I think it's mostly down to whoever is signing off your install for part P and what they're happy with. I've worked with 3 sparkles on installs now, none of them wanted local isolators for switched mains feeds to blinds/curtains/windows but they do want isolators for any permanently powered fused spur. One was happy for the isolation switches all to be grouped together in one cupboard per floor, another wanted then in the closest "obvious" place.

Interestingly they all want local isolator for electric underfloor heating even if it's remotely switched and even though the odds of needing to do running maintenance on a heating element glued under tiles seems way lower than a motor and blind with strings and stuff that may get tangled up day to day. But there you go, I've given up trying to guess and just ask them what they want 

 

Interesting insight thanks. I have loads of wired velux and the sparky insisted on each one having a fused spur... thankfully happy for them to be in service locations rather than on show but still a bit of a pain. Upstairs UFH is wet so no issue there but will certainly expect a fused spur to be required for the electric towel warmers.

On 28/11/2023 at 10:27, joth said:

Btw this wiring does limit your choice of motor. Some require permanent power and 3 core of "dry contact" relay switching, so they would need T+E and a 3 (or more) core control cable. I now specify 3+E and cat6 to each motor where the model isn't yet selected. OTT but it's the most flexible option 

Really helpful input. I assume you're running each location 3+e back to the loxone cabinet rather than a ring just for permanent live...? I've been hesitating on what I should install here as it seems to be a bit of a minefield of blind motor options... are there any standalone motors you'd recommend? I had seen others fitting 5 core flex but most dumb blind setups only required 4 core so was a tad confused why the extra core was required. what core thickness are you using for 3+e?

 

On 28/11/2023 at 18:25, Dan F said:

 

Similar here. Our electrician wanted local isolators for UFH and towel rails but didn't use any for blinds/curtains. In fact, the external blind connections are hidden behind PB in a simple choc box.

 

Our electrician used 1.5mm for some reason, but 0.75mm should be plenty.  The blind motor can't draw anywhere near 6A surely.. but take a look at a few spec sheets. It may depend on how big your windows are)

Cheers Dan - blind motors do appear to be very low draw from what I've read so hopefully 0.75mm will do the job... then again there also seems to be 24v options which I expect would need thicker cable... decisions decisions but I dont want to waste money unnecessarily. 

Edited December 5, 2023 by sean1933

[Dan F]

1 hour ago, sean1933 said:

Cheers Dan - blind motors do appear to be very low draw from what I've read so hopefully 0.75mm will do the job... then again there also seems to be 24v options which I expect would need thicker cable... decisions decisions but I dont want to waste money unnecessarily. 

 

What type of blinds? Internal/external?  What have you seen so far?

 

The cheapest/easiest is 230v IMO which requires a 4-core radial run.  Unless you want "pull to open" which needs a permanent live, or plan to use SMI protocol?  If you don't know then run 4-core radial + CAT6 and keep your options open.

Edited December 5, 2023 by Dan F

[Kelvin]

On 28/04/2022 at 15:57, HazzyD said:

If it helps I've compiled a list of ways you can connect blinds/curtains to Loxone....
 

Option 1: Hardwired Power with Loxone Wireless Control

Example motors: Geiger Solidline Air - this is the motor Loxone promote

Loxone Parts Needed: Loxone Air Receiver

Pros:

• Loxone wireless protocol built into motor makes integration easy and no additional hardware needed at the window location (such as a wireless transmitter)
• Hardwired power means no batteries need re-charging
• No need for wiring back to a relay or main panel or plant room
• Only need 240v power at each window which could be taken off a socket or lighting circuit

…

 

When this was posted it would have been easier if the original source had been copied to the thread…

 

https://umbrashading.co.uk/7-ways-to-connect-loxone-with-your-blinds-and-curtains/