Renovation, Which System To Go For? Advice.

[Ramaya]

We have very recently (2-weeks) moved to a new property, 1930's upper Villa with a loft conversion (no dormers), about 100m3, 3 bed 1 bath 1 ensuite. 

 

I am planning a what i try to call soft refurbishment and I would like to try and future proof the place in every step I take. 

 

The house has an ageing combi boiler installed circa 2006 which works but every so often throws an ignition error so i know it is on its way out.. 

 

I am looking for what system would be best to go for for my situation considering the following facts:

 

- Combi Boiler at the moment is located in the Attic which is also the master bedroom, I would like something quiet.

- I have installed a Drayton Wiser as my wife works from home and we would like to control individual room temperatures. 

- A system that would be able to cater for a future ground floor side extension which will add 1 bed 1 ensuite, 3 rads in total. Attached photo of similar property.

 

General comments the house is much colder on the first floor than what I anticipated, I'm guessing this is mainly due to 3 sides of it being exposed to the elements and also the ageing windows (already planning to replace all of them).    

 

Is a system boiler with an UVC the best option?

Replace with another Combi System?

 

Thanks,

[JohnMo]

Combi is fine, but if using a combi, look at installing a combi Superflow with it.  Have attached some reading material.

 

The other route would be system boiler with UVC.

 

But remember insulation and draft proofing should be your first things to sort out. That will give you the best payback, windows would be much lower on my list of priorities, unless they are single glazed. 

 

You should also look at your ventilation strategy.  You have possibly got fans that come on wet rooms when you switch on the light, then make a loads of noise for 10 mins.  The next thing up is dMEV, always running in the background, but very quietly and very low electrical usage.  These fans replace the existing ones, so easy to install.

Combi-SuperFlow-White-Paper-v1-2-4.pdf Canetis-SuperFlow-Product-Sheet-WE-050318.pdf

[Ramaya]

I am guessing you are suggesting dMEV because of the potential high cost of a MVHR system installation.

 

Not much I can do in terms of insulation the building is a a cavity wall construction with an external stone skin. I can not cover the external walls of the building. The loft is the warmest room in the property converted in 2006 and insulated. 

 

The superflow is interesting I would have a look at it. 

[JohnMo]

Others have done bead insulation, injected into cavity, but not sure if this is an option?

 

dMEV is low on the expense side as you will utilise the existing holes in the walls and wiring.  But you don't get the advantage of heat recovery.  If you see heat recovery as a must the next thing up would be decentralised MVHR, where a unit takes in fresh air and extracts through the same hole, something like this (quite few different makes are available) is very condition based ventilation.

 https://ecostream.org.uk/products/

[SteamyTea]

You may want to consider insulating the floor. This can mean digging out the old one, but well worth it if you are staying in the place a few years.

[Ramaya]

I am on the first floor + attic. If I do something would be at the cavity walls. I need to do more research, i didn't know you could put insulation in them. 

[SteamyTea]

9 minutes ago, Ramaya said:

I am on the first floor

Right, I missed that in your introduction.

I assume that sound insulation has been fitted, which acts as a pretty good insulator as well in conversions.

Airtightness is worth looking into.  Th less draughts you get the better.  The important thing is that you do not want external air bypassing insulation, that defeats of purpose of insulation.

Once you get a place airtight, then it is time to think about ventilation systems to control humidity levels.

[Ramaya]

Might sound very novice but how I go about making the place airtight? 

 

First in the 1st floor and afterwards in the attic.

[SteamyTea]

7 minutes ago, Ramaya said:

Might sound very novice but how I go about making the place airtight? 

 

First in the 1st floor and afterwards in the attic.

Look for any penetration that are right though the wall, so things like pipes, waste pipes, electrical cables.

Then look at how well the windows/doors are fitted, they may be well sealed on the inside, but may be allowing air to travel to the cavity (a cavity is there for weather protection, not insulation), finally look at the joining of the roof to the walls as you have a conversation, air may be getting in there.

There is probably not a lot you can do about the floor to the ground floor flat, just if there is a draught by the skirting board, may be worth investigating there.

 

Airtightness has to be considered with humidity control though.  You will hear terms like Airtight Membrane/Barrier/Wrapping and Vapour Control Layer, they are not the same thing. The airtight barrier allows moisture though, and is on the outside, the vapour control layer is to stop moisture, and is on the inside.

Basically to control temperature and humidity, you live inside an airtight box, that is inside an insulated, but breathable box, that is inside a wind tight, but even more breathable bag, that is inside something to keep the rain out.

Then you put two pipes into the living area, one to draw air out, and another to allow air in.

How that air exchange is done is either passively or mechanically.