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Further workshop advice needed


Omnibuswoman

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The workshop construction continues, albeit at a slow pace. We have now turned our attention to fitting the doors, and there are some details I’m unsure about. 
 

1) How do I hide the tyvek where it comes in around the door frame? Should I fold it around the jack stud, then put the doorframe woodwork on top of it? See photo of my dad working on the bottom of the door frame. We haven’t cut the tyvek for the doorway yet, but plan to do that tomorrow.

 

2) How should I construct a lip at the base of the door to stop rain coming in? I had planned to use some spare 2x4 pieces of treated timber (the off cuts from the stud work), but am concerned it will perish. 
 

3) DPM - almost all the way around the workshop we laid a black DPM strip between the block work and the sole plate of the stud wall. However, on the front wall we forgot to put that in, and now the tyvek is on the outside and the ply sheeting on the inside, I’m not sure if it’s worth the hassle of taking the ply off and unscrewing the screws to try to dig out the cement between the blocks and the sole place, and slide in a DPM. Is this worth it? How vulnerable would not having a DPM here make the wood frame?

294C9B98-1CBD-46D5-B823-CB4B296E86D8.thumb.jpeg.badb8b04d4c5749e18a304add1bab1de.jpeg

 

Below is a pic of the workshop with 3 piece suite we are trying to give away. It made a nice place to relax during our tea break. 
 


 

 

A0F2F176-8907-4669-91C6-71AE116D2347.jpeg

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2 minutes ago, Omnibuswoman said:

Below is a pic of the workshop with 3 piece suite we are trying to give away. It made a nice place to relax during our tea break. 
 

 

Leave it there. It could come in bloody handy if someone needs to self isolate. Ask me how I know! ?

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Ideally you want a lump of hardwood door sill with a galvanised weather bar set in a slot. Your door closes against this. Not the best pic of mine. I made everything from scrap. The bottom of the door has a rebate cut in it. 

 

SAM_8062_zps0c54780c

 

Are they your doors in the picture?

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I made my own sills but my doors open inward, the hardwood I had was to small so I joined it together. I have a weather strip inserted in the groove that the door closes up against and went with a large overlap at the bottom of the door to act as drip. I also cut in another drip detail below the sill to stop water tracking back under the door.  I like it and it works well but not something that would look right on a new build…. 

E657C5C7-640A-4E46-B0DD-783D13DB2853.jpeg

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On 17/09/2021 at 21:34, Onoff said:

Something like this:

 

16319107244111067997141.thumb.jpg.d144b647f7a757a193c05d73d811b38d.jpg

 

You can use softwood, treat it really well then bend/notch a sheet of aluminium to go over it as a protective cover. Done it a few times. I'll see if I kept the last one. 


Thanks, that’s really very helpful OnOff.

The doors in the picture are the front doors, not the back door. Here is a pic of the inside of the back door.  
 

CCE93FDF-B670-4E84-8E3F-3ED226C85AB3.jpeg

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10 minutes ago, Omnibuswoman said:

@Onoff the front of the door is flat, so I presume we will need to add some kind of weather board or something to allow rain to run over the edge of the doorframe onto the ground outside?

 

Yes. Because too you have a grooved front you might want to silicone a weatherstrip on above something like this below:

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=inward+opening+door+threshold&client=ms-android-motorola&prmd=sinxv&sxsrf=AOaemvJTOQkB52qwZ86TFu9Nd1m7j6ziKw:1632083566354&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiz2dyJ8YvzAhUdDmMBHWIGDykQ_AUoAnoECAIQAg&biw=360&bih=512&dpr=2

Edited by Onoff
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Usually your hardwood sill is put in as part of the door frame. Traditionally the jams fit into the sill as tenons. The galvanised weatherstrip extends into the jams. Like this. 

 

door-diagram-h.gif.11aaa3db4556fc2f583455b707012c35.gif

 

Why not fold up a bit of aluminium sheet to go over the softwood "sill" that's there, then add a modern, all singing threshold strip on top of that?

Edited by Onoff
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Rotten / worn hardwood sills are replaced quite often, leaving the jams in place if good though more often than not at least the bottoms if the jams will need replacing using say a scarf joint. It's proper, old fashioned chippy stuff. 

 

Guessing what it the sole plate of your wall is currently your "sill"? You could cut that out and drop in a bit of hardwood sill. Ideally though the sill ends go under the jams. 

 

You have what you have so have to work around/adapt, lots of options! Your dad sounds like a man who'll figure it. 

Edited by Onoff
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This is a hardwood sill, some abandoned project of mine. The ends of the jams would have tenons on that slotted into the mortices in the sill:

 

163212713085085112194.thumb.jpg.10267e48776b2740695d3a98d00eef46.jpg

 

A galvanised steel weather strip sits in the groove. You can see how traditionally the weather strip extends through the jams. The weather strip provides full width protection against driving rain.

 

1632127327553651206503.thumb.jpg.0825174fbf4c5f5aeb30e7d0764b0075.jpg

 

With our old, original back door here the hardwood sill was so worn and weathered, I folded up a bit of aluminium sheet to go over it. Painted with some special metals primer is was on there ages before I fitted the uPVC door and sill. It butted up against the weather strip and was shaped to go round the jams, the full width of the rotten sill and hooked over the front. Still got the folded ali bit:

 

IMG_20210920_094510133.thumb.jpg.c8af707999c94d97f934838b03824041.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Onoff
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