Clemenza Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 (edited) Hi everyone. I'm in the process of planning to have my front garden wall rebuilt, after the bricks used in the construction of my existing one failed catastrophically. (see photo) Despite the wall being of traditional design, with an oversailing course and brick on edge capping, I have been advised that in the replacement structure, coping stones with a drip grove and 40mm overhang would offer the better protection moving forward. However, given the chronic shortage of coping stones, which would be sympathetic to the age and style of my property, I would really like to replicate the design of my current wall if this could be accomplished. I would welcome advise and comments from forum members in this regard. Thanks Edited August 21, 2021 by Clemenza Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyshouse Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 It looks to me very much like the bricks used were not frostproof certainly they seem to have ‘spalled’ most likely due to being wet when they froze. sand faced flettons are the cheapest bricks and well known for doing this. ‘Stock’ bricks made from solid clay and fully fired would be my choice. when you rebuild you can stick with the same design and may be able to reuse the Staffordshire blues, they are beautifully frost resistant. Also shiny and the mortar does not like sticking to them. the projecting dentil course could be done not projecting which would look the same by using too shorter snapped headers rather than the two longer ones, this would remove the flaunching that I dislike as it is destined to fail and may well be letting in water that then freezes. I doubt that you will find anyone to do it but lime mortar works well, near me there is a 400year old brick wall with brick capings not even repointed yet and 8 feet high Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brickie Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 Are there more brick failures around the back of the wall or is it just what can be seen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 @Clemenza you need to use a F2S2 grade of brick in this situation: https://www.brick.org.uk/admin/resources/g-brickwork-durability.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clemenza Posted August 21, 2021 Author Share Posted August 21, 2021 6 hours ago, tonyshouse said: It looks to me very much like the bricks used were not frostproof certainly they seem to have ‘spalled’ most likely due to being wet when they froze. sand faced flettons are the cheapest bricks and well known for doing this. ‘Stock’ bricks made from solid clay and fully fired would be my choice. when you rebuild you can stick with the same design and may be able to reuse the Staffordshire blues, they are beautifully frost resistant. Also shiny and the mortar does not like sticking to them. the projecting dentil course could be done not projecting which would look the same by using too shorter snapped headers rather than the two longer ones, this would remove the flaunching that I dislike as it is destined to fail and may well be letting in water that then freezes. I doubt that you will find anyone to do it but lime mortar works well, near me there is a 400year old brick wall with brick capings not even repointed yet and 8 feet high 6 hours ago, Brickie said: Are there more brick failures around the back of the wall or is it just what can be seen? 5 hours ago, Ian said: @Clemenza you need to use a F2S2 grade of brick in this situation: https://www.brick.org.uk/admin/resources/g-brickwork-durability.pdf 5 hours ago, Ian said: @Clemenza you need to use a F2S2 grade of brick in this situation: https://www.brick.org.uk/admin/resources/g-brickwork-durability.pdf 6 hours ago, Brickie said: Are there more brick failures around the back of the wall or is it just what can be seen? I would welcome some information on none projecting dentil course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brickie Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 1 hour ago, Clemenza said: would welcome some information on none projecting dentil course. If it’s non projecting,it ceases to be a dental course,and is just standard brickwork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyshouse Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 Top course blue, one below same as rest of wall, one below that every other brick would be a header, with snapped headers in between, these would be slightly shorter 30mm between them, giving a 15mm dentillation each side. It would look very similar but be more weatherproof. with frostproof bricks not essential, I would still do it like that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clemenza Posted August 21, 2021 Author Share Posted August 21, 2021 Thanks for that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clemenza Posted August 21, 2021 Author Share Posted August 21, 2021 12 hours ago, Brickie said: Are there more brick failures around the back of the wall or is it just what can be seen? Hi, Yes they have followed the same pattern. see photo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brickie Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 Whilst the wall doesn’t look amazing,I can’t help thinking that a bit of repair work would see you get 10-15 years more life out of it. There are brick restoration methods involving building out with sand/cement & SBR & then tinting to match which look pretty good when done correctly. Would be a hell of a lot cheaper than a total rebuild,depends how much it’s bugging you really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now