SteamyTea Posted September 28, 2020 Share Posted September 28, 2020 I can usually work these things out, but just to be on the safe side I want to double check before I pump 7kW into it. My new induction hob has 4 wires, blue for neutral, black and brown for live and an earth. The blue is labelled N, the black and brown are taped together and labelled L. But, in the wiring diagram it shows Black as L1 and Brown as L2. L1 is 380V to 415V, L2 is 220V to 240V. The instructions show only 3 wires on the diagram, with 220-240V between the L and N, but next to it it shows L1 and L2 connected together (and the neutrals). Now i think that L1 and L2 do need to be joined (so have ordered some Wago connectors). Does anyone think differently? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted September 28, 2020 Share Posted September 28, 2020 What that is showing you is the brown and the black could be connected to two phases of a 3 phase supply, where there would indeed be 400V between L1 and L2 Assuming you only have single phase, then both Brown and Black go to L What matters is the voltage between L and N which would be 230 in any of those situations. I doubt you will need Wago's for this. Assuming you are terminating the cable into a cooker outlet plate, there is usually plenty of room to get both the brown and the black into the L terminal (except on some really rubbish CCU plates that have ridiculous terminals) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted September 28, 2020 Author Share Posted September 28, 2020 1 minute ago, ProDave said: Assuming you only have single phase, then both Brown and Black go to L What matters is the voltage between L and N which would be 230 in any of those situations. Yes, what I thought. I have to jiggle the wires about a bit as they come out of the wall socket/cooker switch into the wall, then reappear about a metre away behind where the cooker was. I am reluctant to pull the old cable out with some string attacked to it, and then pull the new wire though (I am on my own so will be tricky really don't want to cut the wall open and then repair it). So intend to fit a new wall box and connect to the old cable below the hob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted September 28, 2020 Share Posted September 28, 2020 4 hours ago, SteamyTea said: Yes, what I thought. I have to jiggle the wires about a bit as they come out of the wall socket/cooker switch into the wall, then reappear about a metre away behind where the cooker was. I am reluctant to pull the old cable out with some string attacked to it, and then pull the new wire though (I am on my own so will be tricky really don't want to cut the wall open and then repair it). So intend to fit a new wall box and connect to the old cable below the hob. DON'T pull the old cable out. Leave it there and fit a cooker connection plate in a back box on the wall to join the old cable to the new cable https://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-capital-45a-unswitched-cooker-outlet-plate-white/7359k It is bad practice to try and thread the cooker cable all the way to the wall switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted September 28, 2020 Author Share Posted September 28, 2020 40 minutes ago, ProDave said: DON'T pull the old cable out. Leave it there and fit a cooker connection plate in a back box on the wall to join the old cable to the new cable Thanks That looks better than Wagos and a bodge. I was very reluctant to pull the cable out. Shall pop out to Screwfix fairly soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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