MortarThePoint Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 I'd like to lower the level of the patio in the design as there is a gentle gradient along the length of the house that makes the patio quite high at one end. The design has two courses of bricks between the patio level and finished floor level (FFL), so that's 150mm. There will be a door frame which will add a bit more height I expect. The factors that come to mind are: Is there a building reg that limits the height change without the use of a step? Staircases have a 220mm limit and the door threshold is in some way equivalent to a step, but if there is a frame that adds extra height What would feel weird, 350mm doesn't feel viable but is 225mm? How low can the door frame be before it adds expense or looks rubbish. I'd expect the door frame to sit on the two courses of bricks and so have its bottom at FFL. I'd like to have 200mm between patio level and FFL I think, but that is only on paper not based on experience of traversing such a doorway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfb Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 I had a similar issue and ended up with an extra step (sizable, not just like a stairway step) up to the door as I think a 200mm step would be a bit much. Maybe set up a the step with whatever is to hand to get a feel for what is and isn't acceptable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 If you have a decent depth of cill and a proper rebated frane section on the bottom you can actually sit the door 1 course below ffl. Finishes about an inch above your ffl giving a much nicer transition to outside Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 Did this on last one and was much nicer not having to step over the upvc cill then down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MortarThePoint Posted May 16, 2020 Author Share Posted May 16, 2020 Just now, Oz07 said: If you have a decent depth of cill and a proper rebated frane section on the bottom you can actually sit the door 1 course below ffl. Finishes about an inch above your ffl giving a much nicer transition to outside Is this what you mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MortarThePoint Posted May 16, 2020 Author Share Posted May 16, 2020 (edited) 7 minutes ago, jfb said: I had a similar issue and ended up with an extra step (sizable, not just like a stairway step) up to the door as I think a 200mm step would be a bit much. Maybe set up a the step with whatever is to hand to get a feel for what is and isn't acceptable. So you think 150mm is probably the limit of what feels OK to actually use. What feels weird to one person may be natural to another though and if there are regs that I should be aware of I don't want to get caught out. Edited May 16, 2020 by MortarThePoint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 Yes. You can pick different size profiles when you order your doors depending on product. Just get one which is big enough for the 3", your floor covering and a slight protrusion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MortarThePoint Posted May 16, 2020 Author Share Posted May 16, 2020 2 minutes ago, Oz07 said: Yes. You can pick different size profiles when you order your doors depending on product. Just get one which is big enough for the 3", your floor covering and a slight protrusion Cool, thanks With cavity walls being so thick these days you could almost put a step within the wall but that might make for a difficult to clean corner and an odd looking door. You'd have to add something to protect the floor finish too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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