Minimum size non structural stud wall

[jfb]

I'm looking to minimize a timber frame wall between bedroom and bathroom/landing.

It is about 5m long with door in middle and two walls at right angles either side of the door.

No need for sockets in the wall, except a light switch.

 

If I was to try and use 50 x 75mm timber on its side so the depth was 50mm, 15mm soundbloc plasterboard each side and 50mm acoustic R45 slab, would that:

1. be sufficient structurally?

2. be sufficient acoustically? (if not what if I added 2mm acoustic rubber matting?)

[Mr Punter]

I think that metal studs are going to work much better.  They do a 50mm I stud which is good for an independent wall.

 

If you can add resilient bars the sound proofing would be even better and with these each side it would take another 30mm or so.

 

The acoustic matting is good but heavy and expensive.

[Oz07]

What thickness is one of those finished wall products like fermacell is it? Seen some thin partitions in 90s cheap new builds prob like 75mm overall finished

[Jeremy Harris]

I made a thin partition wall between our bedroom and a walk-in wardrobe space, that's a fraction under 45mm thick.  It was a bit unconventional, but has worked surprisingly well, and seems every bit as solid as a conventional stud wall.  I made the wall up as a sandwich of 12mm MDF on either side, with 20 x 44 PAR battens glued and screwed to the MDF at ~400mm centres.  I filled the screw holes, sanded the faces, sealed with diluted PVA and painted as normal, and I can't see the difference in finish between that wall and the skimmed and plasterboard walls.  Hard to judge the sound insulation, but it doesn't seem to be that bad, although this was a pretty non-critical application.  I only made the wall this way as it was an afterthought, and space was very tight, so I was trying to gain every little bit I could.  I think that glueing all the battens to the MDF probably increased the stiffness and solidity of the thing.