Moonshine Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 (edited) I have a 1930's house which on the most exposure facade water has got in, and the rough render has blown and cracked in sections. I probably need to get it sorted in the spring when it's dryer, but need some advice on the best way forward to plan the work. I am quite happy to get on and get the old render off with a hammer drill and cheisel attachment, however I am wondering if where there are areas of sound render how to leave this in place. Ideally looking to do as much as possible DIY, but with anything plaster the finish will likely be done by a pro. Any idea of the costs of rough rendering an exterior wall (ground floor, and pitched roof wall end) Edited January 19, 2020 by Moonshine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 You are best hiring a small breaker Much quicker and cheaper than ruining your own drill Anything that is so hard that it won’t come off with a breaker can be left and gone over The brick that is pictured looks smooth Which is perhaps why it has blown You will need to do a slurry coat prior to scratch coat scratch coat + Wet dash coat £30 m2 UPVC beads Extra for stainless Add a £1 for white cement 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moonshine Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 9 hours ago, nod said: You are best hiring a small breaker Much quicker and cheaper than ruining your own drill Anything that is so hard that it won’t come off with a breaker can be left and gone over The brick that is pictured looks smooth Which is perhaps why it has blown You will need to do a slurry coat prior to scratch coat scratch coat + Wet dash coat £30 m2 UPVC beads Extra for stainless Add a £1 for white cement Cheers, and good shout on the breaker, it looks like it's the original render from the 1930s and onto smooth brick. It has survived 90 years, and render on facades not exposed to the elements seems sound. Any product you would recommend for the slurry coat? I am thinking I can do that myself before a pro does the scratch coat and rough render. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 12 minutes ago, Moonshine said: Cheers, and good shout on the breaker, it looks like it's the original render from the 1930s and onto smooth brick. It has survived 90 years, and render on facades not exposed to the elements seems sound. Any product you would recommend for the slurry coat? I am thinking I can do that myself before a pro does the scratch coat and rough render. I normally use this Dilute 4-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 Or maybe leave it and fix EWI and render that ? you can probaly fit EWI your self in the time it would take to remove all the old render? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moonshine Posted January 23, 2020 Author Share Posted January 23, 2020 @nod, I have had a look / knock at the render at first floor level, and it seems solid, so the water ingress / damp / blown render seems to be limited to the ground floor. So The next question os, how do I stop getting render removing happy, as I will be using a breaker and cheisel, under the render, doing that would just carry on lifting all render. Is it worth running an angle grinder with stone cutter along the boundary area of bad render to segment it, so the good render doesn't get lifted during removal of bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 As I say if it won’t come off with a breaker you can go over it But being as it’s been on so long I would remove the lot 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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