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Thinking through the issues involved in advance of first fit, I realise that the issues of shadow gaps (or not) is one that I need to think through. I did this search on site Are shadow gaps just a style thing? Or a feeling thing? Or used when needs must? Or just cheaper and so a way of saving money? @LadyBuilder would disagree arguing that they are are all the rage, @ProDave uses them with care, I note, @Stones dislikes them but uses them when it suits. @Trw144 uses them everywhere. At this remove (when will I ever get to first fit?) I'm thinking - go for it - shadow gaps are cheaper and will impress people like @LadyBuilder when they come to visit. I bet there are some real gottchas using shadow gaps. What do you think?

I'm about to get windows installed and the fitter has pointed out an issue which I'm not sure how to solve. House is an ICF build (Isotex) so all window reveals have to be covered in something to hide the blocks. External finishes are a mix of render (K-Rend Silicone) Stone Slips and Cedar cladding. Windows are Ratinonel Aluclad and structural openings have been made to the size of the window + 5mm fitting allowance. Original plan was to fit the windows and then render the reveal up to the face of the window for a neat finish. Fitter has pointed out that the Aluclad finish may need to be removed for general maintenance of the window and should not be rendered over. Worse still he has suggested that the render may cause moisture to trap behind the aluminium cladding causing the timber frame to rot! When done right there should be a slight shadow gap around the edge of the window which adds to the modern look. My guess is depth of the reveal will be about 50mm so this is a narrow strip that needs to be covered somehow. Only idea I can think of is to use an aluminium flashing the same colour as the window that will be thin enough to fit under and aorund the window and then use a stop bead to render up to the edge of window opening. All sounds a bit fiddly and might end up looking like a dogs breakfast. Any other ideas would be most welcome.

I’m planning to use the QIC Type D and Type SKR or ST dry lining trims for a shadow gap effect for skirting and door trim. Does anyubody have any detail drawings for best way to join the skirting trim to the door trim so the junction between the two achieves a clean join?

We would like shadow gaps at the bottom of our walls. We have not decided yet whether to just have a shadow gap directly above the porcelain floor or fit a small square MDF skirting with shadow gap between this and the plasterboard. If we decide to use s/board then this will all sit flush with one another and not the usual way of putting the skirting board on top of the plasterboard (yes I know it is a lot of extra work but we think it will suit our build and just to add we will continue the s/gap around the doors so will not be having architrave either). Problem I am trying to solve is how to go about it as the usual way of doing things is to add skirting to the p/board when it has been skimmed but we cannot do it that way if we want s/gaps. SO one way is to p/board the ceilings and top half of the wall so I can plaster the ceiling and then do the floor tiling so I can then fit the lower p/board and s/gap trim and then plaster the walls. OR do I fit all the plasterboard and shadow gap trims, plaster and then lay floor tiling which will be a lot more intricate and as the tiles are 1200mm x 1200mm I do not want to lifting to get the edges absolutely perfect to the skirting board. My preferred method would be the my first suggestion but if somebody has a better idea please tell me! I know we have had discussions about skirting board at the bottom of the walls and how it will take knocks better than just having p/board to the floor with a s/gap trim above the tile but there are no little ones at the moment and grandchildren are not yet imminent and by then then I will be a lot more grumpier and will devise some method of preventing damage to our new home (that is if we decide not to have s/board). TIA