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Found 6 results

  1. Hello. We have a first floor bay window that sits on a brick wall that is 1 brick deep with render on the outside. The render had a few vertical cracks which were repaired and the outside of the house was repainted a couple of years ago. Please see the photos. In the middle of the bay window is a long radiator. On the wall beneath the window cill there is damp on the left side where the cill touches the side wall and this damp continues across most of the bay under the cill. There is no dampness on the side walls above where the window cill touches them. There is also white mould on the wallpaper. Where wallpaper has been removed for photos the plaster is cracked and discoloured. Two questions - 1. Could this dampness be due to condensation? 2. Will replastering the wall then insulating it cure the problem? All thoughts welcome. David.
  2. I have recently had a Daikin Altherma 7.5Kw heat pump installed in place of a bosch gas boiler. The downstairs is UFH with 8 zones and auto balancing flow controllers. The upstairs is radiators with individually controlled radiator valves (TADO). There is an ESBE valve which controls whether the tank gets the hot water or the two heating circuits (2 x 2 port valves). The UFH and DHW work as expected and I've been getting a COP of 3.5 (heating / DHW). As the weather has been mild the upstairs of the house has required little or no heat and hence not paid any real attention to it. Tonight was quite cold so I turned on a couple of radiators. Which got to a reasonable temperature - enough to warm the room. After about 10 minutes the flow and return temperature converged and the flow rate dropped. The flow rate dropped to zero and essentially there was no more heating. I will be ringing the installer tomorrow but would like to have an understanding why this has happened. Looking back this is probably not an isolated occurrence. I should add that the reason for individual controls is that it is extremely easy to overheat the rooms given the level of insulation.
  3. We’ve recently installed UFH in our first floor extension using Nu-Heats spreader plate system. Long story short, the plumber missed the small print which specified that additional heat sources were required in the bathroom to get it up to temperature, so we’re now looking at the best option for plumbing a towel rad. Plumber wants to simply run a new central heating run in and drive the rad off the main hallway central heating stat, however given the bathroom is setup as it’s own zone with stat etc, that seems a massive waste. Is there a way to run the rad and UFH off the same room stat and zone? Is it possible to plumb the rad into the end of the UFH loop?
  4. One pic shows the experiments I'm doing with supporting a type 11 radiator (160cm wide, 50cm high, total weight around 35kg) using universal column radiator feet. The other pic shows the detail of the contact surface between the rad and the feet. Aesthetic considerations apart, is there foreseeable problem with what I'm doing? Of course, the feet would be in addition to standard wall-mounted brackets (which I wanted to complement because I don't trust their strength, for various reasons). I'm asking because these feet are sold to be used on column rads, which my rad is not: https://radiatorvalves4u.co.uk/516-column-radiator-foot-white/ Thanks
  5. I need to hang a radiator (160cm wide, 50cm high, total weight around 35kg) via two brackets to a plasterboard wall. The wall is external, so that it has studs (about 12mm deep and 50mm wide) behind the plasterboard and then bricks behind the studs. I am lucky enough to have studs in correspondence of my brackets. However, I was wondering whether the 12mm depth of the studs would be enough for the screws to bite, or if I should reach to the bricks behind the studs and fix the brackets to them. If I can use the studs, how do I make sure that the screws go through the whole 12mm, given that this will be prevented by them hitting the bricks? Thanks.
  6. Hi, looking for some advice. I have 10mm pipe feeding my radiators but its not feeding enough water into them as they don't produce as much heat as they should and have some cold spots. I don't think the pipes are blocked up because I have flushed them out with cleaners and removed and cleaned a couple of the radiators out and still not enough heat. I fitted a new radiator which also doesn't produce enough heat although it is a bigger one than the others. I have 22mm mains pipes coming off the boiler which I'm guessing reduces to 10mm under the floorboards upstairs at some point to feed the radiators. (Boiler is in an upstairs bedroom) My question is, can I cut the 10mm pipe at a point before the radiator and attach a 10/15mm reducer and feed the radiator with 15mm pipe? Would this work or would I have to lift the floorboards and replace all of the 10mm pipe completely for 15mm for it to work? Forgive me if its a stupid question, I've not long moved into my own house and still learning bits and bobs ?. Any help appreciated, cheers.
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