SBMS

@joth currently got the same dilemma and I am erring towards option a as well. Did you put any heat emitters upstairs or do UFH upstairs? My rudimentary calculations indicate my downstairs UFH surface area is enough to heat the whole house and therefore upstairs emitters not necessary. Nice side effect of A2A upstairs is if it is chilly I can put the units in heat mode to top up. Downside is I am struggling with our preferred installer who considers that for the MCS install and BUS grant for the heat pump they need an emitter in each heated space including upstairs…

You dont really need to appeal. It’s easier to put in a follow up application to remove the conditions which requires a full and reasoned report on why they can’t (or they will). Planning authorities will be much more cautious following this route because their arguments in the decision for the removal of the conditions are then specifically subject to an appeal as opposed to the appeals process which can consider all matters in your application. This is how many applications around us by a prolific planning consultant has had permitted development rights reinstated for many new build approved applications. The council have since rarely imposed removal of PD rights following this.

Your BCO shouldn’t really be questioning a construction detail like this independently unless they are suitably qualified. I would ask your BCO to provide a counter argument to your professional’s assessment as to why the detail doesn’t ventilate appropriately. What, in reality, they would do, is use a checking engineer to validate the detail (I wouldn’t expect a BCO to be qualified to counter - but they could be and if so should provide a reason why your SE’s assessment is incorrect).

Would it have been better to use a full application and use the volume of these buildings rather than PD? Or had you already got rid of them?

Fair enough. Am no expert so perhaps someone will be along here to agree with acoustic strips! We designed in counter battening from the start for our ceilings but agree if you haven’t got the height that would put me off

10m of acoustic tape.. £8 10m of treated battens… £5.40

Hardly… a few 25mm tile battens, nail gun could have it done in a day? Much easier than faffing around compromising your hangers in my mind. Apparently it’s better for plastering - less likely to crack so I’ve been told. Is that true @nod?

Thanks @Thorfun - got it. Do you mind sharing a ballpark of what a lighting designer costs?

GPDO does not reference subordinate. The operative phrase is required for a purpose incidental to the enjoyment of the dwellinghouse The term subordinate comes from case law and planning appeal decisions, not the legislation. It is used by Inspectors and courts to help interpret what “incidental” means in practice. I think in the instance referenced it’s hard to imagine an outbuilding that is larger than the dwelling house being incidental, Even including a pool. A 10mx5m pool for example would be 50m2… a 200m2 pool room is enormous.

Counterbattening your ceiling is what we are doing. Solves this problem, strengthens the floor above and mitigates any potential issues with plaster skim cracking as the floors settle. you can also shim under your counterbattens if not perfectly level.

What was the size of your dwelling house?

I have been researching home automation and looks like loxone is a firm favourite. I’m moving on to look at lighting design. Would anyone (a) recommend getting a lighting designer and, if so, (b) have any recommendations. @jothand @Thorfun I seem to remember you used a lighting designer - any recommendations?

Did you set this up? What were your thoughts?

Self build warranties are specifically designed for self builders and those builders that don’t necessarily have a primary contractor for them to go after. Would be worth checking your warranty but that’s kind of the reason why self build zone market their products - and ask you from the outset if you have a primary contractor (and if you do who they are). If you don’t I suspect the premium is more as you’re a higher risk but they would cover you in your example.

Ah sorry didn’t realise you were using that.

It gets blown into every nook and cranny so reduces the dependence on skilled labour to fit. It also gets blown in between the metal web which would be tricky to do with rafter roll. When I priced up both they were very similar priced.

Yep. That’s exactly what we are doing - architect didn’t draw it but we will be counter battening the entire inner surface of the smartply, running services/spots in that and then plasterboarding on top. You can get 50mm flat MVHR ducting but you could also do wall outlets (or even floor outlets).

Have you asked your insulation provider to model it for you? Ours did it for free as they had in house thermal modeller that did it for clients.

Here is our design. We probably won’t even put the collar detail in and keep it vaulted as high as possible

Do it! We are using 304mm engineered posi rafters filled with cellulose, right to wall plate, hanging off a steel ridge beam. Really simple and maximum floor space with no purlins required. I would have no idea why you’d be putting pipes in your roof to be honest. Mvhr doesn’t have to be ceiling bound (especially if a bungalow?). Counter battening 50mm below allows you to run electrics and spots fairly easily. Mitek or similar will do you a design for free - obvs you’d need SE to ensure walls are supporting, specify beam sizes etc.

You could always ply all the way over first then put your firrings on whichever direction you want then ply on top of them to form your sub deck.

Cheaper than putting in steel maybe.. you could do a reduced depth joist (maybe an 8 inch) with larger chords to beef it up. If you want larger spans without a steel you’ll have to get something engineered… don’t think you’ll get away with anything less than 7 or 8 inches tall anyway spanning that much?

Engineered posi rafter could do a 5.8m span.

Thanks will look at that rating 🤔 Did people register as a partner on loxone’s site to buy the kit or source some other way? Can we buy as self builders?

Is that the updated Intercom or the old style 80s silver one? What did you use instead?