Gimp

The Housing & Planning Act 2016 (sorry I forgot its now an Act rather than a Bill) Which will apparently, along with other planning reform measures to speed up planning: support the doubling of the number of custom-built and self-built homes to 20,000 by 2020 https://www.gov.uk/government/news/landmark-housing-and-planning-bill-receives-royal-assent So, it looks like the gov are trying to increase housing provision by every which way possible from this Act, though of course many are aimed at social housing and housebuilders.

So I've recently completed on the purchase of a building plot in Wales, this week actually. An exciting time for me It will be my first new self-build project. Down to business though and one of the first items on the agenda is how to get on with the neighbours? I personally don't think planning permission should be a problem whether the neighbours are onside or not. Its a plot of land with pre-existing outline planning permission for a very small dwelling which of course was never built. So I will be looking to apply for outline planning permission with my own plans for a house that will fill most off the site since it is a small plot (A nice house though, at least I think). Even filling the small plot the house won't be large, but it really needs to fill most of the plot or it will be ridiculously small. The current outline planning permission was quite detailed with Design & Access statement and plan & elevation of the proposed build, though I disagree on the proposal it just doesn't make common sense. Anyway apparently there was no objections to it but I know the guy lived along the road at the time, no longer though. Now I know the new Housing Bill gives me a lot off clout to see past any objections from neighbours. The plot itself has a large gap to the neighbours next door (mostly their land though) and their houses look away from my plot of land. Realistically I see the plot I have just bought as having a lot of plus points that will make it difficult to be turned down from neighbours objections. However, as I intend to live there I would prefer if at all possible to get on with the neighbours, though if I can't I would have to accept this. I know that development tends to upset many people which I can understand and a lot I think can be brought about by non-communication with the neighbours and resentment building up. I would prefer to avoid this and yet I am not particularly socially skilled. I would prefer to avoid long term animosity as its not a great feeling, I would prefer to be on friendly terms. I've briefly saw a couple of the neighbours in their front garden as I viewed the plot, I don't think they saw me as a distance away, they looked easy going enough but you never know. A couple in their middle age going towards retirement age, probably no children I would guess as their home is quite small even though the plot they are on is quite large. So my question is, how should I approach them about my proposal, if indeed you think I should approach them at all, but of course I would prefer to meet the neighbours some time anyway, but of course I don't wish to immediately run headlong into objectionable situation if I can help it and cause a situation which might have otherwise not have arisen. Any thoughts?

A couple of interesting sources here I've found about weep holes & venting the cavity: https://masonrysolutions.wordpress.com/2011/03/29/what-are-weep-holes-and-do-i-need-them/ http://www.labc.co.uk/news/renders-weep-holes-are-you-using-them-correctly

Yeah, been looking into Part B regs at the moment with regard to unprotected area of the wall to the boundary. I'm guessing block walls would be real fire resistant so would pose little problem in this respect whereas timber walls less so. Sound I think should be fine on this front also with all the cavity in between partial or full fill.

It would keep me awake at night, particularly when away

Sounds like not venting a cavity masonry wall is the way to go then, the weep holes will probably do anyway to suffice in air change over time without being overboard I'm thinking. I'm guessing heavy/medium density blockwork is used on the outside for strength against wind load and also security as anyone could saw through into your home if it were aerated block outer, sounds a bit extreme I know, but was watching a programme a year or two back and some thieves had done just that, but through an aerated block wall into a commercial premises. Thinking perhaps a medium density block then u-value not too bad but still fairly dense but early days yet.

Sure, but if it lasts 30-40 years or so everyone's long since moved on or no longer around Like you say probably not good long term though, sounds to me like the problems had with timber frame in the 60s & 70s with major problems or replacement being needed after 20 years or so due to rot, guess there's no telling how long ProDave's will last though.

So yours is ventilated as timber frame, correct? As you need to keep dry, remove moisture, condensation, etc. Does the act of ventilating not also reduce the thermal efficiency though? So what is being said I gather from ADLIan is that if timber frame ventilate, but if masonry unventilated as less susceptible.

If your venting the cavity as you seem to say you are, doesn't this render your external wood fibre cladding useless? since the air behind from the vent would mean no air tightness.

Thanks Brickie, I kind of agree, a full fill would be less hassle, unfortunately though the location is in Wales, and in the area deemed under building regs to be at risk of driving rain, hence their requirement for a cavity gap, i.e partial fill. I will be undertaking the work myself so can take the time & care (hopefully) to fit the insulation tight. joe90, yeah I'm pretty sure the present house I am in (don't own it) is similar with a vented cavity. ADLIan I'm pretty sure I've heard the case for not venting cavity as well, some say its just left as an inert air space, others to avoid supplying a fire with oxygen & creating a greater funnel effect, cavity barriers would be used of course in either case but adds to the hassle of part fill cavity. Given that it will be in an area prone to driving rain then perhaps it makes sense to have it ventilated to dry out any rain that gets through more quickly perhaps.

I tended to thought you had to vent the cavity to stop stale air, condensation issues? Obviously weep holes may let air through (as you state not deliberately) and the cavity is not likely air tight.

So thinking here that as the cavity is always vented with air (in partial fill) then it would be pointless being concerned over having low u-value materials for the outer leaf since the air in the cavity will remove any insulation properties of the outer leaf. Hence, I might as well have a 100mm medium or dense block(external), air gap, insulation then 100mm aerated blocks(internal). Rather than 100mm aerated block(external), air gap, insulation and 100mm aerated blocks (internal). Hence there would be no real difference in U-value. Looking at the Kingspan U-value calculator they seem to back up this assumption in that they only bother asking you for the inner leaf not the outer, celotex only see a 0.01 difference but they don't even ask whether partial or full fill. So just seeing what forum members thoughts are on this?

Personally myself I would replace the woodworm boards. From what I understand a house survey is often just observational and few surveyors are probably not going to want the liability of judging whether the worms have gone or not. Otherwise you risk putting off buyers, a sale collapsing or buyers asking for a reduction as a point of negotiation. So it would be far cheaper to replace the boards, particularly the obvious ones that can be easily seen. You can get a cheap spray can or two of wormworm killer of the internet and spray around infected areas and prone areas afterwards for good measure. Then just monitor the situation every so often. That's my thoughts on it.

I will be in a similar position with building a garage back into a hillside so will need a retaining wall system, but one that will be wide enough for a cavity wall, 350mm wide to carry on above the retaining wall. I'm not sure stepoc would be wide enough for me though, unless it can be laid double width?

Changes to the original idea/concept design are perhaps the most important factor in designing your building OP. This tends to happen a lot in the design process and is in fact integral to it. Indeed it is highly unusual for a design to remain largely unchanged from original intent. In designing think about the materials that will go with the design and basic structural concepts of what is supporting what. Read some books/articles on design and consider site and location. The more worked through a design is the better it can be for the occupants. It does not have to be complex or funky but at the same time a degree of aesthetical thinking and practicality of the proposed design or design ideas to the site are important. So it may take many months to go through all of this whether it is yourself or someone you employ to take you through it. Main thing is you get someone who is willing/able to spend the time to properly consider the design and location. Not someone who is going to come up with an initial response and not spend proper time developing it. A house is more than just an ill-conceived box to plonk down.

Devise a brief of what you want to inform/instruct the Architect as to what you want. This needs to be clear as otherwise your Architect may question and pull apart what you want and again you'll end up with their vision. To this end consider doing some plans to take along and sketches/cut out pics of what you are looking for. Spending some time on this to really have it thought through will help a lot. On this point consider a decent building designer on a cheap rate to work through this with you even up to outline planning permission stage. This should help a great deal in getting your vision up the road quickly with an Architect saving on cost and at outline planning stage getting feedback from planning which will give an idea of what to focus on/amend on full planning submission.

It's a flat roof - one capable of bearing weight. Additionally there are self clean varieties available - though I do not expect it to never need cleaning. Think I've heard heat loss can be greater though a horizontal pane than vertical which is why I ask? i.e if anyone has had rooms left freezing in winter because of roof lanterns.

Yeah, it shouldnt be enourmous, looks like it will be just over a meter and a half (thinking of an octagonal one ) so in proportion to the room

So basically it's a case of putting one in which I think would really set the room off (top floor bedroom) or leave out. Leaving out would be better for warmth (in Wales) yet I worry that I might be missing out on the room ambiance which later would be difficult to correct such is the construction build. There would be sufficient light without one I think but I think it would definately bring the room alive. So just wondering if anyone has any experience with having roof lanterns? and any problems with keeping in warmth?

Thanks guys, that's made it a lot clearer so much appreciate it. I'm thinking from what you put the self build scheme looks the best and most straightforward way this time around. I intend to live in it afterwards not just to avoid capital gains but because I want to anyway. Like has been said I'm not sure on whether it's feasible for a company director to bill themself and how this would work so I think a discussion with an accountant would be needed on the best/possible way to work it. So for me for this build it all looks a little unnecessary to go the company route I'm thinking.

Just a thought actually if anyone has any idea on the self billing thing if running a company. Presumably you would be looking to invoice yourself at the cost of any invoices minus the VAT to return a zero profit and hence avoid corporation tax. Apart from any tax avoidance issue I assume there may be an issue taking the VAT refund out of the business in terms of being taxed as a salary or a dividend? So thereby suggesting the VAT reclaim would be best spent on further materials/items to avoid this tax?

Ah, you're right of course. I'm just thinking of this one to live in. Possibly it may lead on to others as a commercial venture, but maybe set one up then, use this one as a learning process and trial run to get the hang of things. Thank you for your advice, much appreicate it.

Hi all, I'm new here and in the early stages of planning a self build. I was wondering what are your thoughts of VAT reclaim. From what I see under the Self Build VAT Reclaim Scheme you can reclaim 20 percent VAT on all building supplies that are integral to the build at the end of the build from suppliers invoices. However, I have seen on the previous forum (ebuild) that some people set up companies, register for VAT and reclaim on all invoices e.g. architect, SE, etc as of course the invoice I would be billing presumably myself would be zero rated leaving surplus VAT on all the suppliers & services I had used to reclaim. I assume I have got this right? Plus apparently I can claim this back quarterly instead of at the end of the build. I'm not expecting to extensively use services as it's a fairly straight forward build, though of course this isn't guaranteed. So my question is do you guys think it's worth it setting up a company or just easier to use the Self Build Scheme?