Post and beam

The installation company i chose and subsequently turned out to regret Left me with a few questions once they left site for the final time. On this basis i was very reluctant to pay them the final invoice which basically covered the grant. They very quickly started to hassle me to pay. Stuck to my guns and argued that once they had all their money where was the incentive to #1 sort the issues & #2 actually get the grant money to me. As it turned out i spoke to the MCS people myself. They were very helpful and told me that the company had not responded to them within some time limit which killed the grant claim. The installers own incompetence had cause their issues. If you knew the full sorry story of this shower this would not come as any surprise to you. Anyway, MCS said that it was perfectly possible for the installers to resubmit the claim which they duly did once i informed them that their failings were at the root of the delay. MCS paid out within a week to their credit. Still waiting since 9th December for a resolution to our losing pressure issue from this bunch of chancers.

I wonder what hardware and service level this is. My antenna cost £275 in November and i pay £75 month. sometimes get up to 300Meg download.

The Starlink cable is proprietry and a standard ethernet cable will not work. The ends of the Starlink are slightly different. They also claim that because their antenna is quite high power that ethernet cable cannot cope.

Before i ask the Planning department the probably painful question of what their requirement is with regard to our Bin location, does anyone have any insight please? Our 'pre first occupation' condition #13 requires us to submit full details of how and where we will locate our bins & recycling containers. We have already moved in by the way. My response would be, ' over there mate out of the way'. I doubt this is what they want. For those that have been here, what level of detail are they likely to be expecting?

New build well insulated, UFH and air tight ( ish). Mains gas is not available on our plot and the delivery was going to be £6500. Not usually factored in when people discuss how expensive heat pumps are. Finding a heat pump installer was difficult and to be honest the company i chose have ended up being a total incompetent nightmare. Hey ho! lesson learned.

We have about 2100 'soft mud' facing bricks left over. I need to build (have built for me) a low retaining wall about 900mm tall by 7 metres length on each side of our drive. Are these suitable please?

Mine is now mounted on my chimney. The floor mount was to prove the concept before i committed to drilling holes. It could do with being a little higher up. The 'unit obstructed' graphic shows an area directly behind it, which is the house. I dont know if this is actually a real issue. Because the satellites coming from north west would be at a very shallow angle to the antenna when they got to this shaded area. I think they would have handed off to the next most northerly satellite before it became a problem. Regardless, 99% of the time the service is great. Perhaps once or twice an evening we might get a couple of seconds of buffering.

No machinery available There is some topsoil. Also gravel over, as poured when the build started to allow access for large vehicles. I will need to get whatever i buy poured and then thrown about by me. Done all my money building the house. I might reluctantly attempt to build a brick retaining wall. I am not a bricklayer.

Agree, which is why i said a topping of topsoil. i plan for about 200 of topsoil over whatever i end up packing with.

Or just a bit of grass. it'll be either side of the central drive. I cannot remember if planning require it to be SUDs compliant. So until i get it confirmed i am working on it needing to be. Sand would do the job unless there is a cheaper filler, hence my questions. Then a topping of topsoil.

So the question is, whats the cheapest SUDs compliant infill material?

House is built and occupied. Soil from the foundations is required elsewhere.

Each side is about 8 metres by 8 metres. Then the depth/height is 900mm tapering to zero, hence me saying a wedge shape.

Hi Guys Our site slopes down away from the lane towards our house by about 90cm over 8 metres. Each side is also about 8 metres wide. So i have a wedge shape on either side of the central drive that i need to fill. Not certain if it needs to also be SUDs compliant. Filling it 100%with topsoil will probably be more expensive than necessary. If anyone has done similar how did you approach this please?

Thanks for the suggestions guys

Here are pictures of the manifold.

It does, but thats not relevant to my original post.

Yes. We have a 1.4 reading on air tightness from Aerobarrier. Yes it is. 75mm, why?

Will do when i get home later.

Thanks dude, that was the motivation. Regarding the Ivar mixing valve option. I am not sure i have the space to install one as it happens. Therefore a review of my radiators to move them around and fit a couple of larger ones might be the thing to do. K3 instead of K2 perhaps.

I dont propose to disconnect anything. I thought i could use the pressure/flow thats in the UVC. This is after all the same pressure as the mains inlet is it not? I have not done anything yet. sanity check here first.

WC @ .45, on all the time.

Based on a previous discussion in another post i did wonder about a mixing valve. There is nothing like this currently in our setup.

Prior to starting our build and when deciding on what and how we would heat the house we were told more than once that separate heating upstairs was not required. Ours is not at Passiv level, it does have a .11 roof, .12 floor and .15 walls. We have UFH downstairs and a total of 6 radiators upstairs. All on a single unmixed heating zone. Radiators were sized for the expected heat loss and flow temperatures. The bedrooms are at about 18.5 - 19 degrees which feels a little chilly to me. Heat does not appear to reach upstairs very effectively. We have a centrally located 180 degree return staircase. There is a noticeable gradient in temperature as you get to the landing, which surprised me. Now, i fully accept that our single zone design with a flow temperature that has not so far ever got above 38 degrees even at minus 5 in December is not best suited to radiators upstairs. But that is not the point. If we had gone without radiators at all upstairs we would be in trouble . For those contemplating going without any heating upstairs i hope this little tale is helpful. keith