Post and beam

We have about 2100 'soft mud' facing bricks left over. I need to build (have built for me) a low retaining wall about 900mm tall by 7 metres length on each side of our drive. Are these suitable please?

Mine is now mounted on my chimney. The floor mount was to prove the concept before i committed to drilling holes. It could do with being a little higher up. The 'unit obstructed' graphic shows an area directly behind it, which is the house. I dont know if this is actually a real issue. Because the satellites coming from north west would be at a very shallow angle to the antenna when they got to this shaded area. I think they would have handed off to the next most northerly satellite before it became a problem. Regardless, 99% of the time the service is great. Perhaps once or twice an evening we might get a couple of seconds of buffering.

No machinery available There is some topsoil. Also gravel over, as poured when the build started to allow access for large vehicles. I will need to get whatever i buy poured and then thrown about by me. Done all my money building the house. I might reluctantly attempt to build a brick retaining wall. I am not a bricklayer.

Agree, which is why i said a topping of topsoil. i plan for about 200 of topsoil over whatever i end up packing with.

Or just a bit of grass. it'll be either side of the central drive. I cannot remember if planning require it to be SUDs compliant. So until i get it confirmed i am working on it needing to be. Sand would do the job unless there is a cheaper filler, hence my questions. Then a topping of topsoil.

So the question is, whats the cheapest SUDs compliant infill material?

House is built and occupied. Soil from the foundations is required elsewhere.

Each side is about 8 metres by 8 metres. Then the depth/height is 900mm tapering to zero, hence me saying a wedge shape.

Hi Guys Our site slopes down away from the lane towards our house by about 90cm over 8 metres. Each side is also about 8 metres wide. So i have a wedge shape on either side of the central drive that i need to fill. Not certain if it needs to also be SUDs compliant. Filling it 100%with topsoil will probably be more expensive than necessary. If anyone has done similar how did you approach this please?

Thanks for the suggestions guys

Here are pictures of the manifold.

It does, but thats not relevant to my original post.

Yes. We have a 1.4 reading on air tightness from Aerobarrier. Yes it is. 75mm, why?

Will do when i get home later.

Thanks dude, that was the motivation. Regarding the Ivar mixing valve option. I am not sure i have the space to install one as it happens. Therefore a review of my radiators to move them around and fit a couple of larger ones might be the thing to do. K3 instead of K2 perhaps.

I dont propose to disconnect anything. I thought i could use the pressure/flow thats in the UVC. This is after all the same pressure as the mains inlet is it not? I have not done anything yet. sanity check here first.

WC @ .45, on all the time.

Based on a previous discussion in another post i did wonder about a mixing valve. There is nothing like this currently in our setup.

Prior to starting our build and when deciding on what and how we would heat the house we were told more than once that separate heating upstairs was not required. Ours is not at Passiv level, it does have a .11 roof, .12 floor and .15 walls. We have UFH downstairs and a total of 6 radiators upstairs. All on a single unmixed heating zone. Radiators were sized for the expected heat loss and flow temperatures. The bedrooms are at about 18.5 - 19 degrees which feels a little chilly to me. Heat does not appear to reach upstairs very effectively. We have a centrally located 180 degree return staircase. There is a noticeable gradient in temperature as you get to the landing, which surprised me. Now, i fully accept that our single zone design with a flow temperature that has not so far ever got above 38 degrees even at minus 5 in December is not best suited to radiators upstairs. But that is not the point. If we had gone without radiators at all upstairs we would be in trouble . For those contemplating going without any heating upstairs i hope this little tale is helpful. keith

Hi Wise ones, One of my circuits is not flowing water, 12 total. Is this plan the correct way to do this. #1 Shut all the flow valves except the suspect one. #2 Connect a drain hose to the Right hand side outlet where indicated. #3 Shut the Cold return at the left hand side. #4 Use water from the UVC upstairs via the manifold flow inlet at top left to flush through the suspect circuit. Out via the drain hose once the egress tap is opened. I hope i have this correct but feel sure the collective will put me right if not. Here's hoping...

Perhaps weirdly, i had less problems with clambering on ice covered roof rafters last january than i do now. We moved in in November with all of the internal painting, architraves & skirting still to do. We only have 3 doors out of a total of 15 required. I am finding it increasingly difficult to motivate myself to do anything at the moment.

I was worried about exactly the same issue last year when our scaffold was ready to come down. The brickies particularly had left loads of red dust and crap all over the boards. other stuff as well. The boards looked horrendous. As Nick says, the scaffolders just expect it and knock the worst off anyway.

Yeah that wont do it. I have a Mountfield ride on mower and that's not up to the job of bouncing over the clumpy bits, its not a brush cutter after all.

I'd like most of it to be short grass, i did buy a ride on mower after all. The wife wants a wild flower meadow for part of it. The land slopes right to left slightly and away from the house also. Its about 50 metres down to the bottom of the garden with fabulous views across the Beane valley. Yes sort of. Where the previous grass & brush cuttings have not been cleared away and just left in clumps randomly they have then sprouted up from those piles. Its now too difficult to get a mountfield ride on mower over it effectively. Hence me thinking a large Rotivator might chop the clumps up.