Post and beam

Thanks for the suggestions guys

Here are pictures of the manifold.

It does, but thats not relevant to my original post.

Yes. We have a 1.4 reading on air tightness from Aerobarrier. Yes it is. 75mm, why?

Will do when i get home later.

Thanks dude, that was the motivation. Regarding the Ivar mixing valve option. I am not sure i have the space to install one as it happens. Therefore a review of my radiators to move them around and fit a couple of larger ones might be the thing to do. K3 instead of K2 perhaps.

I dont propose to disconnect anything. I thought i could use the pressure/flow thats in the UVC. This is after all the same pressure as the mains inlet is it not? I have not done anything yet. sanity check here first.

WC @ .45, on all the time.

Based on a previous discussion in another post i did wonder about a mixing valve. There is nothing like this currently in our setup.

Prior to starting our build and when deciding on what and how we would heat the house we were told more than once that separate heating upstairs was not required. Ours is not at Passiv level, it does have a .11 roof, .12 floor and .15 walls. We have UFH downstairs and a total of 6 radiators upstairs. All on a single unmixed heating zone. Radiators were sized for the expected heat loss and flow temperatures. The bedrooms are at about 18.5 - 19 degrees which feels a little chilly to me. Heat does not appear to reach upstairs very effectively. We have a centrally located 180 degree return staircase. There is a noticeable gradient in temperature as you get to the landing, which surprised me. Now, i fully accept that our single zone design with a flow temperature that has not so far ever got above 38 degrees even at minus 5 in December is not best suited to radiators upstairs. But that is not the point. If we had gone without radiators at all upstairs we would be in trouble . For those contemplating going without any heating upstairs i hope this little tale is helpful. keith

Hi Wise ones, One of my circuits is not flowing water, 12 total. Is this plan the correct way to do this. #1 Shut all the flow valves except the suspect one. #2 Connect a drain hose to the Right hand side outlet where indicated. #3 Shut the Cold return at the left hand side. #4 Use water from the UVC upstairs via the manifold flow inlet at top left to flush through the suspect circuit. Out via the drain hose once the egress tap is opened. I hope i have this correct but feel sure the collective will put me right if not. Here's hoping...

Perhaps weirdly, i had less problems with clambering on ice covered roof rafters last january than i do now. We moved in in November with all of the internal painting, architraves & skirting still to do. We only have 3 doors out of a total of 15 required. I am finding it increasingly difficult to motivate myself to do anything at the moment.

I was worried about exactly the same issue last year when our scaffold was ready to come down. The brickies particularly had left loads of red dust and crap all over the boards. other stuff as well. The boards looked horrendous. As Nick says, the scaffolders just expect it and knock the worst off anyway.

Yeah that wont do it. I have a Mountfield ride on mower and that's not up to the job of bouncing over the clumpy bits, its not a brush cutter after all.

I'd like most of it to be short grass, i did buy a ride on mower after all. The wife wants a wild flower meadow for part of it. The land slopes right to left slightly and away from the house also. Its about 50 metres down to the bottom of the garden with fabulous views across the Beane valley. Yes sort of. Where the previous grass & brush cuttings have not been cleared away and just left in clumps randomly they have then sprouted up from those piles. Its now too difficult to get a mountfield ride on mower over it effectively. Hence me thinking a large Rotivator might chop the clumps up.

Its certainly a 750 round case Bevel. Cannot remember which picture i clipped it from, it might be a green frame. Either way one of the most desirable pieces of engineering ever created.

I've looked at the brush cutters before. They would certainly deal with the stuff that's growing. Its the combination of the growth and the rough clumpy ground where previous mown growth has not been removed. Looks to me like it needs ploughing. Or turning over at least.

I am fortunate to have about 3/4 acre plot on which we have built our house. The land has not had much care for 40 years. it is overgrown with scrub. Where attempts have been made to clear it in the past and not cleared, the mowed scrub has clumped in paces such that it is now very lumpy. Such that a ride on mower would not do the job. Will a petrol Rotivator do the job of both chopping up the scrub and effectively tilling the land. Or do i need something else? All suggestions gratefully received.

The chimney was taped. To be fair the inglenook brickwork, while very good was a potential candidate. But if it were at fault i would see the tiny wispy white traces of the goop. There is none of that on any of the inglenook.

I guess you didn't tape the windows & doors yourself then. The only place i can think of that might have let down my score was the fact that the floor screed did not flow as hard to the edges as i imagined it would and the sole plate being a little suspect. I can imagine that once pressurised, air was getting down past the edges of the screed and out through the sole plate gaps. Either way its costing me no more to heat than i was paying for my old 3 bed semi at less that half the size.

From 3.9 to .5 and you think that needs improvement? I think i must have missed something on mine to end up at 1.4. Which i thought was reasonable actually. The lads from AB did say the windows and door sealing was very good. Wonder where i was still losing air from.

Our new house is a SIPs construction and i am very happy with it. This the only house i have ever had built or will ever build so have nothing to compare it against. It is warm, draught free, straight square and true to dimensions. There have been issues, mostly with Potton Homes but i do not regard these as related to the basic construction method. On the subject of knock down & rebuild, there is a bungalow next door to us that is up for sale @ £500k for 662 square metres. It is non standard construction, single skin walls, tiny and poorly made. The foundations are not up to the job of adding a second floor. All of the people that i have talked to that have come to view it have said that the only thing to do with it would be to remove it and build new. But, the asking price makes this non viable. I guess this is likely to be the case with a lot of houses around the country.

I bought this and am really happy with it. Cannot possibly do the job without something like this. Thermal master, the worlds smallest thermal camera. Uses the phones screen as the display.