Post and beam

Come to think of it how is the radiator hot water supplied even if there is a temperature control for it? Surely it needs it own diverted hot water. I think i might have a bigger issue than i thought.

Are the TRV’s set to 5, or ‘max’ for the purpose of testing? Yes they are . Can feel a little heat in the radiators today. not suprising as the flow temp will be down in the low 30's . So i think that this demonstrates there is no fundamental issue. Still waiting to hear why the installation company did not deliver what i asked for and therefore believe i paid for. Namely, a second zone, with its own temperature control.

Waiting on a thernal camera but to be honest i have not felt any heat in the radiators. Dont expect much heat and with the current weather dont need it really. But, if there is an issue i need to sort it out soon. At the very least i believe my supplier should have installed a second zone & control for it.

Memory fails me dude. Would you point me in the right direction please

If i understand you correctly its 8.

Thanks johnMo, i will give this a go

There you go, the Booboo might have been me misunderstanding how they worked. I assumed they just did a restricting job on the water flowing through. I did screw down the flow valves on the UFH manifold to the hallway and the downstairs WC last night. The WC is really quite warm. I will check later this afternoon if its made any difference yet. Going for a wired thermostat may not have been the best idea me thinks. Just to say we have not moved in yet but i have been getting ready to do so this weekend.

4 radiators only upstairs, each with a TRV. But the TRV will never become relevant if the warm water is not present at the valve. 35 degree flow nominal , yes WC via the north wall temp sensor Well that forms part of my conversation with my supplier. 2 zones would imply 2 devices of control would it not. I understand that the senso comfort thermostat (vr720/3 i think) can do multiple zones. So i was content when this was specified and fitted. Only has 1 zone configured and i cannot see how to add a zone.

I have a recent 5kw Vaillant heat pump to UFH downstairs and radiators upstairs. One senso comfort wired thermostat in the hallway. Now that the heating is on i find that the ground floor is lovely and cosy. But, because the thermostat gets to temperature the cooler upstairs never asks for heat for the radiators. In all discussions with my heat pump supplier i said i wanted 2 zones but hoped to not need the radiators on. I cannot see a way to control them in my current configuration. Am i missing something ?

I hope they re discover the attitudes they displayed many years ago. Presumably from before they were absorbed by Kingspan. Good luck to them

Have i missed the boat on this one as well. Potton homes appear to have been aquired (spelling) as of today.

Apologies for not responding. Resolved. I was being a twat. Grip the isolator tight enough and undo the nut. The spinning copper into the plastic fitting is irrelevant.

Thanks dude. I did sort of try that but did not want to push too hard in case i killed it. Will have another go later today. I have what i hope is a new one of these on order just in case. Not certain its the same part as the online picture is very poor. Still dont know which place its supposed to connect to on the back of the thermostat.

My Senso comfort wired thermostat has a broken connector. The 2 wire thing that plugs into the rear of the unit. Once i source a new one i need to understand how the wires secure into it. Can anyone throw any light on the subject please. See picture attached.

Now a new conundrum, I need to re do a compression joint that feeds a WC. The upstream side is connected to a piece of copper that is in turn connected to a plastic pipe such that the copper spins freely when i try to undo the nut. I hold the isolator valve with my grips and then undo the nut with a spanner, or rather, i dont becuase the copper pipe turns with it.. Is there a safe way to also grip the copper without risking crushing it? I need 3 hands

Got it

PTFE on Rad valves but 3 or 4 turns only. Need to revisit those. Not used joining compound. I will now though. I have read various conflicting things over the years about not needing to supplement olives for example.

Thanks for confirming Nick, understood. The poor technique i refer to is not what you see in the cylinder cupboard pictures here, i meant my poor compression fittings to the radiators and elsewhere. some of which leak slightly. Mind you, reflecting on what you explained just now, if i filled the radiators to just over 3 bar i am less surprised that they show signs of leaks.

Hi Nick, Do i open the isolator valve and just shut it off at 1.5 bar and let the rest of the system fill with water to whatever pressure it ends up at ? If i shut its isolator what purpose is it serving .

Water system was filled but no heat switched on. Pressure reading on the red vessel was just over 3 bar. Now drained down again until i can get a professional to sort out my poor copper technique.

A tundish in our Cylinder cupboard is dripping enough water to splash out onto the floor. It is downstream of the Red pressure vessel. I have not moved in yet and filled the water system to check for leaks on my second fix radiator installations. No heating is on.

I just installed our induction hob last week and it came with the same 5 cable arrangement as pictured above. Seemed a little weedy compared to the hefty supply from the DB that our sparky ran in. Total power for the hob is 8kw so i was a little surprised just how thin their cables are. I was also confused by the 5 cables until i googled the subject. Sparky also said either just common the phases together or link them at the hob end with the brass links to achieve the same thing. All good. Now just got to replace most of the cookware as we have used a gas hob for the past 15 years. Even my little coffee moka pot.

Thanks, Its more the dressing or cladding of the outside that i am looking for practical advice on. Of course a suitable external cladding would also help with shielding from the direct sunlight and therefore heat.

Most of our house contents have been in a storage container for a year. They have survived with virtually no issues and i am thinking of buying one as a man cave/ shed. But just like the storage one i rent, they are stupid hot in the summer. Has anyone else got one and how have you insulated it. And or, dressed the outside to disguise it a little. Can you drill the outer skin without problems for example. I should explain that i am looking at buying a double skin 'one trip' container from Felixtowe docks. They are stupid cheap at the moment.

I am 65 and know that i am not in the best of condition. I have lost weight in the past years build, especially outdoors when it was very cold. But my knees are shot and back is very immobile. This has not improved. Yes i am wiped out the next day and no it has not got any easier