Post and beam

I guess you didn't tape the windows & doors yourself then. The only place i can think of that might have let down my score was the fact that the floor screed did not flow as hard to the edges as i imagined it would and the sole plate being a little suspect. I can imagine that once pressurised, air was getting down past the edges of the screed and out through the sole plate gaps. Either way its costing me no more to heat than i was paying for my old 3 bed semi at less that half the size.

From 3.9 to .5 and you think that needs improvement? I think i must have missed something on mine to end up at 1.4. Which i thought was reasonable actually. The lads from AB did say the windows and door sealing was very good. Wonder where i was still losing air from.

Our new house is a SIPs construction and i am very happy with it. This the only house i have ever had built or will ever build so have nothing to compare it against. It is warm, draught free, straight square and true to dimensions. There have been issues, mostly with Potton Homes but i do not regard these as related to the basic construction method. On the subject of knock down & rebuild, there is a bungalow next door to us that is up for sale @ £500k for 662 square metres. It is non standard construction, single skin walls, tiny and poorly made. The foundations are not up to the job of adding a second floor. All of the people that i have talked to that have come to view it have said that the only thing to do with it would be to remove it and build new. But, the asking price makes this non viable. I guess this is likely to be the case with a lot of houses around the country.

I bought this and am really happy with it. Cannot possibly do the job without something like this. Thermal master, the worlds smallest thermal camera. Uses the phones screen as the display.

Just to throw some more real world figures into the mix. Our new build is not at Passive levels. Even at -5 degrees the other night and the day times either side of that the highest flow temp i have seen is 38 degrees.) And that is to maintain a ground floor at 23 degrees ( dont ask). WC is currently .5, i have played around with this parameter. 46 degrees flow does seem very high.

As Nick has said, they quote based on square metres, mine last Autumn was £2000 for 200sq/m. They did say prior to me committing that they would just stay all day until the score stopped improving if thats what i wanted. Did not quite work out like that on the day as i think they got a little bored. And they were a long way from home. Still, we went from 3.8 prior to 1.4 at the end of the day. The stuff does get onto everything horizontal, i can attest to that. As it happens the spray nozzle connections to the tripods they use were a little leaky and sprayed goop onto 2 walls that required sanding afterwards. It is not visible on light coloured walls but feels horribly tacky if/when you rub past it. Check locations of the tripods if you use A/B for your build..

Depends on your skill level, physical ability to climb heights etc, attitude to risk. Also the size of building and the space/layout of the plot. Loads of other variables i'm sure but a little more detail would be good. I didn't build mine, but i am very experienced at hitting 'buy now' .

Not necessarily so. Depends on the house. For those building a new house there is the cost of a Gas supply to the site. In my case this was going to be £6500 for a 20 to 25 metre run. All of a sudden the 'cheap' gas boiler does not make as much sense.

Mimo is the in the house network i think. Not the link to the outside world.

There is one tundish below my red pressure vessel. The water is not draining down through it. If there are others i do not know where they are. I have the same fear of a serious leak somewhere. But, as this has been happening for the 6 weeks we have occupied the house i would expect to see water damage by now if it were inside.

That isn't going to yield a result on a sunday morning. As it happens i cycled the power via the rotary switch outside. Good old 3 pin re set fixed it. I have a persistent pressure loss issue for which the installer has been engaged. I need to top up the pressure by half a bar every day, which immediatley brings the system back online. The installer is not very responsive. But this total loss of pressure overnight appears to have put the system into sulk mode.

I had a loss of pressure on my Vaillant 5kw heat pump. I have restored the pressure but my appbelieves there is still the 'low pressure' condition. Therefore it will not switch on. Is there a way to clear the alarm condition please. I have no heating currently.

I had to tell my local address authority that my house was now inhabited. Although i paid £95 about 18 months ago to register mine, and assumed that was all that was required. Lots of delivery companies had no idea the house existed, including Amazon. It turns out you also have to inform the authority that the house is now occupied. But nobody informs you of this up front. This kicks off the ' add it to your live database' signal.

One reason for the address still not appearing months after you have paid to have this done is because the local authority are waiting for you to tell them that a house now exists. I have just been through this nonsense with East Herts. sorted in 2 weeks once i spoke to them.

North Hertfordshire East Herts for planning

This summer we paid.... £11250 for electricity from UK power networks. maximum of 8 metres from other side of the lane to our green temporary cabinet. £6500 for water for a dig from the near side of the lane. probably 2-3 metres. No gas

No, it was the UFH installers. And it was done the 'proper' way as per Nicks description.

They did. A different company installed the heat pump, UVC and most associated pipework and wiring. There was a 3 month gap between the 2 installations. Unfortunately i fell out with the original installers over their attitude to an underestimate of the amount of screed required. They were due to do everything related to the heating install.

I meant furthest from the house of course.

Yes they would be steel. Perhaps i should have said 'woodscrews' not wood screws. Anyway, i have read up on this somewhat since yesterday. Not as rare or new idea as i thought. Now i need to decide whether this idea or old fashioned brick piers to support a deck is the best option. As i said, i need to bring the level up by almost a metre closest to the house.

I have started to get a load of facebook adverts for a type of decking solution that uses what look like 5 foot long wood screws driven into the soil in a square pattern arrangement. As i will need to build up the area behind our new build by as much as a metre to give us a level patio area i wonder if this might be a good solution. So, does anyone recognise what i mean and have you used it or considered this product?

If i knew where and how many i could do this. Do you mean the tundish?

This is the kicker, i have not been bleeding mine every time. It needs topping up , and much too frequently. Which led me to believe it was a leak. No signs of water leaking inside the house and i certainly hope there are no issues between the floors with all the joints. I would expect to see patches on the ceiling if this were the case. If it stops raining i might be able to monitor the unit outside for damp patches.

I have to restore pressure every day or every other day on my installation, by about half a bar to be accurate. Only been in the house for one month and had assumed this was air gradually settling out of the system. Although it never seems to appear anywhere. But, i saw on a facebook page today that someone asked about a very similar scenario and was told that this is a known issue with Vaillant arotherm heat pumps. Mine is a 5Kw version. Lots of Vaillant user on here so my question is, is this a widely known issue?