CotswoldDoItUpper

Thanks @richo106 looks like a 45min drive to Swindon is on the cards… Will report back for future ‘hubbers.

We are also considering the R9 from Residence. Anyone had -ve issues? Google/trust pilot reviews aren’t great but I assume there is an element of bad fitting contributing to this? Also, anyone know who makes the profile/extrusions?

Glulam perlins or floor/ceiling joists?

Not even with double joisting etc? We’ve prob got a budget of about 50k for it. Hopefully less thought!

Looks good, I’ll have a google/youtube search.

Hi all. We need another bedroom for child number 3. The loft seems the obvious option, but can it be done? I know that it won’t be huge, but as a kids room, I’d like to know your thoughts! Width: 4.9m from inside of wall plate to inside of wall plate. length 8.2m from block gable to block gable so far so good I hear you say. height 2.27m from top of floor/ceiling joists to underside of rafters. This is where it gets tricky. we can get stairs to come up pretty much exactly in the middle of the plan without significantly impacting what’s below. Happy to add a pitched dormer or two or three (we need planing anyway). what do you think? thanks!

I’m following this too for a garage roof!

Thanks all. Seems a reasonable price. Next question… Is this something I could DIY fit? Quotes in the region of £3k to replace and dispose of old ones. Seems a lot for 12 windows!

Has anyone used this company before? https://www.timberlook.com Before we part with over £7,000 for 12 replacement units, I’m trying to do due diligence to see how good they are. I know they’re not all singing all dancing alu-clad timber, but just checking the company seems reasonable and perfectly acceptable on the quality side of things. Thanks all!

V interesting thank you @RobLe. That’s the sort of thing I was thinking of. Even at ~75% efficiency that would make our units 9.9p/kW. Significantly more efficient than a leaf both in use and also space!! Ours would go into the garage too. possibly in an insulated and ventilated box to try and keep the temp more stable. Yes @SteamyTea, I do mean 15MWh, apologies for the error in units. we don’t have a DHW cylinder - combi LPG, so can’t use overnight to pump it up to 70deg or similar!! effectively we’d be paying ~£3k to get approx 45% of our electricity at 10p/kWh. 50% at 7.4p/kWh and 5% at 29p/kWh. current 50/50 split costs approx £2730/yr new split: £1447 giving payback in 2.5years inc ‘lost’ interest on the original investment. Seems a bargain!

I’m running this quandary round in my head at the mo. When we can get such ‘cheep’ electricity off peak (7.4p/kW) why bother with solar? Just buy a big battery, charge overnight and use through the day? We are high electricity users (aprox 15kWh/yr) and only about 1/2 fits in to off peak. surely the maths doesn’t make sense for solar, but buying an old ev just for the 30kW battery (about £3k for an old leaf) and doing something like vehicle to grid (no idea on the technical side of how you could get it to work!) makes economic sense?!?

We definitely want it dry and not damp. Happy to not add any heating and it just take heat from the rest of the house - aga is the other side of the wall. Will have a door instead of the bigger window and the small window will be blocked up. will also be putting another fridge/freezer in there for overflow storage. thinking roof with a couple of small roof lights and then walls/floor of some sort to connect to existing kitchen. any advice on drainage for the retaining wall or if building control will need to sign off on it etc etc…

We have an odd void outside our kitchen windows which we’d like to extend into to create a large walk in larder/pantry/prep kitchen/booze vault…. Can anyone give me an idea of what I need to do to use the existing retaining wall as the new wall of the extension? Obv a membrane/drainage system etc. but how do I determine if it’s structurally safe and or conforms to building regs.? as is it’s about 1.4m x 3.5m thanks!

Thanks @Alan Ambrosethats a good search! Def not a plug then! There is an already a 45a cooker circuit there with a switched fused spur and an existing double oven wired into it. Does anyone think I can add this hob to that circuit? I guess 45a is enough for the oven but not the hob as well?!?

It’s an AEG induction hob. No other info on it, just the number on the sticker which could be a model number. A05 5380 01.