flanagaj

I understand that for the garage and doors with level threshold, you install some sort of ACO, but what about the areas of the house which are not entrances, but you want at the same level? Could you for instance run some sort of ACO drainage around the whole house so that you have the exact same level? I am trying to avoid having a 150mm step down from level threshold areas. For example, I have a path that runs down the back of the house. It has steps one end, but at the other end is our patio. If I keep this section 150mm below dpc, I will then have a 150mm step up to the patio and will create a potential pond.

In the end I've gone with the Norrsken 319A sliders. They have a fixed pane and the frame is chunky, but I'm ok with the aesthetics. I really liked the way that when you closed the door, it felt like you were closing and aircraft door. The sealing is very impressive.

I've been using Heras panels for our site entrance, but last night's storm has busted them and I lost a pair last year to wind. I'm now contemplating just buying a set of proper steel site gates and putting them. Yes. They are nearly £900, but I just need a better solution than Heras. We have nosey neighbours and I like to screen it off and am currently using the hoarding that supposedly allows the wind through, but it's definitely not that great and is probably the reason for panels snapping. Caravan life is great. It's either been Baltic or lashing down. We want to get cracking, but the weather is certainly not in our favour.

I think they just said "Oi scrote, make some more muck". There were no pleasantries back then, when I was 17

Conventional floor build up. Eg, screed on top of insulation.

I didn't know whether the detailed drawings from the manufacturer would suffice. Eg, Velfac provide the below, so I suspect Norrsken do to? https://products-commercial.velfac.co.uk/products/18760/18789/19843/

I think I need to get on and get details finalised, but I didn't want to get too specific now regarding floor finishes. I've decided to cancel the idea of a power floated floor. Nice idea, but just too much chance of it looking xxxx or going badly wrong.

When we had our technical drawings done for building regulations submission, we hadn't finalised the sliding patio doors and windows, but we knew the sizes. So now, we are thinking about getting started, I've now got loads of questions. 1) Footing details (already discussed this on BH) 2) Level threshold detail, but the build up detail is dependent on the door frame manufacturer Do most people give their tech architect all this information upfront, to enable the associated junction details to be created?

As someone who laboured when they were young and understands that just shovelling sand and cement into a mixer is not conducive to creating a uniform mortar colour, I'll make sure that they grade the sand and cement to ensure we don't get that.

We have had our material palette signed off and I'm curious as to how you'd achieve the mortar look below. I'm conscious that it's not going to be the cheapest. Are we talking simply white cement and a pale sand, or is there a lime constituent in there too?

Thanks. Windows and doors along with brickwork are areas that I'd rather get right, even if that means cutting back on the interior finishing. They are difficult and expensive to change once you have built the shell.

I have had quotes from both Norrsken for triple glazed alu clad sliders and also Origin for aluminium double glazed sliders. The Origins are obviously cheaper than the Norrsken offering, but I'm trying to understand whether in the grand scheme of things, the 4k difference for the two 4.4 * 2.2m and 2.4 * 2.2m sliders is worth swallowing. I'm concerned that large double glazed patio doors might be cold.

It was actually New Years Eve day, but I do wish I was more brazen about getting cracking on and not worrying about the neighbours.

The carb was left on the manufacturer's settings. The old carb is long gone.

I used my husqvarna stone saw yesterday and noticed that it was occasionally popping and I could see flames coming out the muffler. I replaced the rings and fitted a new genuine carburettor at the same time. Does anyone know what might be the issue or how to diagnose it?