flanagaj

Yes. When I put the axle stands under the ends, I only gave them a good tighten by hand, so I suspect that it's just slightly curved and needs to be lifted up 20mm at each end. I'll report back. Thanks

Sold as seen as I bought it privately. When levelling, I thought you simply followed the below process 1) Jack up and level across the axle first. 2) Jack up the end which is lowest, until both ends are the same height. 3) Place axle stands or blocks under each support point The unit is now level? But given it had been sat on it's wheels for who know how long and it did appear to have a slight curve along it's length (I thought this was normal as a result of how long they are), then the ends will be lower than they should be. When I next go to site, I will get my laser level and check to see whether the floor inside is curve along the length and higher at the axle. If so, I will need to try and increase the height at the far ends by carefully jacking it up. I have managed to get the doors to shut, but it's far from ideal.

I am concerned that I have now bought a dud. When we viewed the caravan, it was sitting in a large warehouse and just sat on the wheels (steadies not down). As a result, the doors would not open and close properly. I was told that once it's levelled, they will all be ok. Having sited it and got the unit sitting on the stands, the french doors that are near the front, but on the side face of the caravan are over 25mm out on the diagonal. I am now concerned that the chassis of the unit is hosed or has been permanently bent from having not been supported properly. Just wondering how best to try and resolve the issue as this could be a very costly mistake.

I get the black plastic thing is for the earth rod, but what about the plug next to it?

It's cutting the hole through the roof that is concerning me the most. I will get up on the ladder later, to see how the tiles are done. Last thing I want is water getting in. As the caravan is a 2023 model, it needs to be done right, otherwise, I risk devaluing it a fair bit.

I am contemplating installing one. Was it easy or did you pay someone to install it?

I levelled it today. The 6 ton bottle Jack which cost £25 was just the ticket. I decided to use static caravan axle stands. My main motivation was 1). No faffing around trying to find material of the required thickness. 2). I suspect there will be some minor settling over time. I can easily screw the up tight again. Whilst on the subject, I am trying to understand why there are two electric connections under the unit. The big one in the first image is definitely for the incoming feed as it goes to the consumer unit. I’ve no idea about the other one though?

All aspects are complicated. 1) More trenches to dig and concrete to pour. 2) More blockwork to build up to DPC 3) More time spent levelling multiple areas with hardcore / sand blinding 4) More insulation cuts and perimeter insulation against said block work 5) DPM membrane is more fiddly as opposed to just laying over a single large area. 6) Added hassle of now having multiple floor areas to level as opposed to a single slab

Our current build has the internal blocks walls sitting on 450mm wide footings. From a build perspective, this is actually a right pain and complicates the whole process up to finished slab level. I know raft style slab would mean we could avoid this, but are there any options to create a giant reinforced slab that would enable the internal walls to be built directly on top. The main motivation for this, is it will make it much simpler to power float a large 17 * 7m slab than it will if said slab is divided up into 4 smaller slabs.

That's hardcore. Respect!

I love problem solving and you cannot beat the feeling of doing so via improvisation. Getting on site in the next 3-4 weeks is going to be a big relief. Having to travel 1hr each way has been a real drag and I think that even though we are moving into a static caravan. It will be into a static caravan that we own on our land and the place we will call home. Living in rented for two years, has felt like living in limbo.

It's very sheltered, but I might do this. I don't have a vehicle with a tow bar. I might just lower the legs on the end to stop any unnecessary tilting from end to end.

Thanks @ProDave When you say jack up the axle. Is there a jacking point behind the wheel which enables you to lift each side, or did you lift it from one of the lifting points that are either side of each wheel? I am thinking that unless you lift it from it's centre of gravity point, eg axle, it will just lift one end and the other end will just pivot over and hit the ground. I am making the assumption (probably incorrectly), that they don't have a balanced centre point and I just need to see what works. Keen to hear what lifting point you used to lift the axle with a trolley jack to enable you to get blocks under the axle.

I am going to try and get the caravan levelled over the weekend and was hoping someone might be able to help with what is required. I was thinking a) Water level b) 2 * 5 ton bottle jacks From what I have read on the inter web, you do one side at a time. But if I look underneath the static, I see two jacking points about a 1 - 2 ft either side of each wheel. I can obviously use both bottle jacks to lift up the caravan at these points, but having jacked it up so the wheel is off the ground, what do I do then, as the points where I need to put the blocks are now blocked with a bottle jack underneath it. Any pointers welcomed as it's a heavy beast and don't fancy getting squashed.

This day has been on my mind for months. We really struggled to find a company that would visit the site and confirm whether we could get a static down the lane. In the end we took an educated guess and purchased a 2023 37x13 unit from a private seller. So at 1100hrs today, the wife of the driver (Greg Caravan Haulage) appeared in the driveway telling me I needed to go and cut some low hanging branches. We got the static on site relatively easy, but then it got bogged down twice whilst reversing it over the type 3 MOT. We had to Jack it up and then finally decided that sheets of 18mm shuttering ply under the wheels might be the way forward. In a nutshell , if we’d done that from the start we’d have got it done much quicker. It’s in position and I just need to get it levelled and on blocks now. A bit too stressful for my liking, but relieved. I’ve been more concerned about getting the static on site, than building the house.