flanagaj

Unfortunately, I am limited on space and time too. I was thinking about erecting a carport style covering with clear roofing sheet, so that you could come out of the static and down to the outbuilding without having to brave the elements. The only issue I see is the location of the flue pipe from the boiler. Wonder if it could possibly be changed so that it goes vertical and through the corrugated roofing sheet? Anything to make life more bearable during the wet winter months is going to be worth it.

We've got until the end of the month before we've got to be in the static. Sods law that it's set to rain for the next two weeks.

Do I need to use a vapour barrier and if so, is it installed on top of the insulation or between the word and insulation?

I am planning on having a shed, like the one below outside the entrance of our static caravan. It will house the washing machine and tumble drier and enable me to change out of dirty clothes before going into the static. My concern is how best to insulate it as I'm concerned about pipes freezing?

I did consider whether I could run a suitable amperage female socket from the shed CU suspended from so poles. It’s out the way and will be cheaper and easier than using Swa and termination boxes.

Just for the record. This forum is very useful, but if I ask for advice I am not looking for a “you should leave that to the big boys you incompetent fool” type responses. I see enough of those on other forums. At the end of the day, we are all grown ups. If I decide to start messing with electrics and kill myself or someone else, then that’s my prerogative. I’ll face the legal consequences that come my way. I was merely looking for advice as to how others may have wired up their statics when said static has a hook up connector.

Nothing odd about it. He works for a company and they don't allow their staff to moonlight. But he takes a chance and does work for family at weekends on the quiet. @Nickfromwales are you an electrician as you give off those defensive vibes when it comes to people asking questions about electrical work?

It's the random price generator bit that annoys me. The moment they say "Cash" or "Account", I know I am about to be fleeced.

As explained in my post. "I hate merchants and I’m not sure he’s thought too much about what bits are required". The ****** always want to rip me off. Buying online means I can get the best price and avoid having to haggle with some arsehole behind the desk.

I’m not doing this work myself and my nephew who is a qualified sparky is looking at the job at the weekend. He tells me he’ll get it done in a day and I can nip off to the merchants to buy the bits. Trouble is, I hate merchants and I’m not sure he’s thought too much about what bits are required. The plan is to run 16mm 3 core Swa to the shed from the kiosk. The shed will have a CU with a 6 amp lighting circuit and a 32 amp socket circuit. All simple stuff. The plan is to then the SWA 16mm to the static caravan. this is where I have questions. 1) Do I need 3 core SWA to the static? 2) I know I need an earthing rod 3) The caravan has the CU in the photo and the plug too. how do you connect Swa to the plug thing. Do I need some sort of box?

The other thing I did notice and I don't this can be corrected. If I put a long level across the width of the caravan at the far end by the front patio doors, it is level up to the point it intersects with the chasis frame, but then it starts sloping downwards and by the time I am at the skirting, it's about 25mm lower. The metal cross members that run across the width, do not appear to be curved to the level I see with the spirit level. I assume that isn't how it should be, I might remove the insulation from underneath to see what is going on. Remove the jacks from the axle and allowing it to sit back down has enabled me to get the doors working now. The axle still appears to be 10mm higher than it should be, but maybe it will sink slowly overtime.

Yes. When I put the axle stands under the ends, I only gave them a good tighten by hand, so I suspect that it's just slightly curved and needs to be lifted up 20mm at each end. I'll report back. Thanks

Sold as seen as I bought it privately. When levelling, I thought you simply followed the below process 1) Jack up and level across the axle first. 2) Jack up the end which is lowest, until both ends are the same height. 3) Place axle stands or blocks under each support point The unit is now level? But given it had been sat on it's wheels for who know how long and it did appear to have a slight curve along it's length (I thought this was normal as a result of how long they are), then the ends will be lower than they should be. When I next go to site, I will get my laser level and check to see whether the floor inside is curve along the length and higher at the axle. If so, I will need to try and increase the height at the far ends by carefully jacking it up. I have managed to get the doors to shut, but it's far from ideal.

I am concerned that I have now bought a dud. When we viewed the caravan, it was sitting in a large warehouse and just sat on the wheels (steadies not down). As a result, the doors would not open and close properly. I was told that once it's levelled, they will all be ok. Having sited it and got the unit sitting on the stands, the french doors that are near the front, but on the side face of the caravan are over 25mm out on the diagonal. I am now concerned that the chassis of the unit is hosed or has been permanently bent from having not been supported properly. Just wondering how best to try and resolve the issue as this could be a very costly mistake.

I get the black plastic thing is for the earth rod, but what about the plug next to it?