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Thanks for replies, really stressed now as wasn’t thinking straight and now worried got some on clothes which didn’t change and put both kids to bed, I so wish hadn’t started this project and builders had paused just a moment and not cut the board, really worried for the kids now rather than me as I’m getting on a bit, to think indirectly impacted kids is a nightmare, so wish I could wind back the clock as so avoidable, Lawrence

Well I was feeling pretty reassured but seems to be some horror stories coming forward, I am pretty happy my exposure was minimal but with dust in the air pretty stressed some might have got on my clothes, I cannot get over why I didn’t change my clothes before getting kids from school and putting them to bed, hoping that as i was outside a lot before that would have blown off although from above clothes do seem a method of transfer, I really wish I had a moment to stop them cutting the board, all happened so quickly where a moments pause wouldn’t have all this worry, so don’t need it, Lawrence

Sorry to hear, some real sad stories out there, is horrible stuff and guess many people had big exposures for a long time with no knowledge of what damage was being done, Lawrence

Sorry to hear that, guess nobody knows for sure and maybe you are right that some people are predisposed to it, do you mind me asking what the casual contact was as is worrying can develop the worst outcome from a casual contact ? Lawrence

Many thanks for taking time to write such a detailed response, really is appreciated as been really quite worried over it and more I read and responses on here then am being much re-assured that this accidental short exposure happens a lot and is was as lethal as touted in some resources then many diy'ers would be dropping down of asbestos related disease. Thanks again, really is excellent forum, Lawrence

Many thanks for reassurance, sounding like exposure was minimal if at all, been really worried so thanks for taking time to respond, guess had lucky escape as now know what dealing with and can get rest dealt with properly, Many thanks, Lawrence

Thanks for such quick reply, good advice on the worrying although the clothes thing does worry me as stupidly stayed in the same clothes right through the kids bedtime, I had been outside a lot during the day (not near the building) so hoping stuff would have blown away, been googling a lot and does seem a lot of people make mistakes and guess if lethal from a short exposure any more people would be going down with asbestos related illness. Many thanks, Lawrence

Hi, Having renovation done and when builders cut through plastic soft fit yesterday in two places for block work to go up on second storey with jig saw turns out there was a thin cement board on the underside, I was in garden watching as discussing project with builder, the builder then dropped the soft fit into the dumper about a couple of metres away from me and load of dust came up - mainly from dust/debris that was already in dumper. It was only afterwards main builder looked at soft fit in dumper and said mmm that could be an asbestos cement board that the soft fit was siliconed to. Is about 7mm thick and 50cm across. No one was masked at that point as was not expected. Took a double bagged sample of the board to local testing place and came back as Chrysotile asbestos, now really worried about possible exposure not when soft fit was cut as well away (would worry for the carpenter) but when was dropped down into dumper as may have broken some more at that point. Am I worrying about nothing given the brief potential exposure at that distance and outside, I am guessing lots of people mistakenly do stuff every now and then or should I be concerned ? The rest will be dealt with properly, double bagged and taken away. Any thoughts greatly appreciated, Lawrence

Many thanks for all replies, won't bring it up and be interesting to see when BCO comes round if raises anything, by sound of things nothing to worry about, thanks for everyone taking time to reply, Lawrence

Many thanks, sounding like should just leave it and as you say move on, just the end of the one storey roof (concrete tiles) resting on top of it so happy not much load above, it was the weight of the beam itself I was concerned about as took 10 people to move it - very new to all of this and was worried about a failure as would be very nasty if it came down. Many thanks, Lawrence

Thanks ever so much for all the replies, been really worrying me this one, I think a chat with BCO is good way to go to see if he is happy but can't help feeling he will only be happy if the SE says 300 is fine and the 400 was over specified, as was said above 300 is only 75% of the original and at one end the beam goes to end of padstone and was reading (although not entirely sure on this) that load is also exerted at 45 degrees from end of beam and thats why they are specified over length to cater for this. Would a BCO typically compare what has been done with the SE specification or just eyeball it and say okay from experience/discussion with builder ? Many thanks, Lawrence

Thanks for link, really not sure what to do, so frustrating as would have been very easy to use specified padstones, wander if as important when in same direction of beam as opposed to when at right angles where a bigger padstone would spread load maybe differently- to be honest can’t get my head round it, think speaking to structural engineer even if upset builder is way to go, Thanks, Lawrence

Thanks for quick reply, yes the roof is only thing going back on so not a lot of load other than the weight of the beam which is very heavy, the span is 4.5m and the beam specified was 250x150x8.0 with 275mm 8mm thick bottom plate galvanised. In two minds whether to make a fuss as queried it a few times and builder seems experienced and to ask for it to be redone in his view unnecessarily could make rest of build awkward. I reckon you are right the length of lintel they had probably determined why they went for 4 300 padstones rather than the specified 400mm. Thanks, Lawrence

Hi, Had a steel beam installed by builder as part of renovation works, and it has not been installed to specification by structural engineer, builder has said it is fine and not to worry but I am as such a heavy beam. Have good relation with builder and rest of build going well and structural engineer is very good friends with builder so if I call him will be a bit awkward. Thought would post on here to get peoples thoughts , beam is a big galvanised beam and in SE drawing said 225mm end bearing onto 400mm concrete padstones. When taking apart the single height extension that was in existence it was discovered the inner skin was a weird breeze block with insulation in middle and would not take weight of beam, was discussed with building inspector who said two options steel posts in a goal post arrangement or build new breeze block pillars tying into original blocks, builder went for latter as guess easier and no need to wait of posts being made. For some unknown reason as was armed with SE diagram and I raised it they went for 300mm padstones and he said will be fine, they lifted the beam in on digger and by hand and it didn't go in central as you will see from the pictures but didn't want to move it due to weight and it was sat well otherwise, they did also knock the front left padstone from its cement when putting it in, builder again said not to worry as all the weight is on the back. As it didn't go in central one end has 300mm bearing (to end of padstone) and the other 215mm (10 mm short of recommendation). Not sure if the building inspector will refer to the engineering drawings when inspecting and if picked up will be pretty obvious came from me as questioned the arrangement a few times. The beam has now had block work done on top of plate and at sides so will be pain to rectify. What do people think, should I be worried, what would you do ? Front: End with 215mm bearing instead of 225mm on 300mm padstones instead of 400mm. End with 300mm bearing on 300mm padstones instead of 400mm. Side view of one end: Any thoughts greatly appreciated, Many thanks, Lawrence

Thanks for very detailed post, I have also been reading some bi-fold fitting instructions and they seem to allow for at least 5mm all round so guess could go a little bit more at top, the more I look at it the more I think it is yard/transport damage than deflection due to the irregular way it is bent and it was the beam that had bend on one corner that they flattened, guess nothing I can do now and just get door installer to take it into account, shame as everything else looking good so far, many thanks for all the excellent input really is a great forum and now only one really using as get the best replies, Lawrence

Hi thanks again for quick replies as have been really worried since spotted it earlier just after builders left, the SE specified Catnic lintel REF CG110/100 for 125mm cavity min 200mm end bearing, the opening is 2500 for the bifolds, in terms of the blocks not really sure they are not high density or anything and just assume standard blocks if there is such a thing (very new to all of this). Has the builder swapped catnic for keystone based on few of the questions/comments ? Guess thing that is really concerning me is does this need to be re-done or can bi-folds be fitted underneath okay - not yet ordered was waiting for all opening and then manufacturer was coming to measure, guess didn't want big thick sealant to take up any deformaties or do they normal have some sort of head where beam deflection can be catered for ? Many thanks again, especially on a friday night. Lawrence

Wow, thanks for all quick replies, much appreciated as pretty stressed out over it all at moment, and apologies an ensuite picture seemed to creep in on original post ! Ran a string along to see how much it is bent, what makes it looks worse from a distance is that because there were no small bricks to be had at any merchant for a week or more they chopped blocks down and the uneven edge is at bottom so the cement varies all along, wander if the heaver blocks rather than 2 layers of small bricks contributed, wasn't propped while course was laid, here are the pictures: First one is the bend - couple of mm: Appears to go up at one point ! Here is underside: Many thanks, Lawrence

Hi, Just having two storey extension done and on ground floor having some 2.5m bifolds, the structural engineer specified a CG110/100 catnic lintel I guess went for that so no flex above doors. What is strange is builders have put first couple of layers of blocks on and when looking at it tonight the front edge looks bent, have put couple of pictures below, no idea how that has happened as have the same lintel for upstairs laying in garden and feels absolutely solid, was this a manufacturing defect ? But guess main question is does it matter, is there a gap above where the frame of the doors will go, with a metal lintel like that was expecting it to be dead flat especially as second storey still to go: Easier to see in this picture, if I put a long level over at front then rocks on the bend although quite hard to see in picture: Any thoughts greatly appreciated, Lawrence

Hi, Just having a two storey extension done and builders have done foundations and well on way with first floor. We need to re-route the gas pipe - was looking at moving meter but expensive and would also mean gas meter is a long way from the electric meter which for smart meters isn't great (although meant to be improving I read somewhere) and bit weird to have them in different places and would mean would be inside garage which would prefer to avoid. There is no good route other than in the ground and been looking at tracpipe from meter to garage (where boiler will be). There is a rather convenient trench right next to foundation where could run the pipe - would need to clear it out a bit deeper of debris, there would be an aco drain running along on top. Are there any regs that say can't run right next to the block walls above the new foundation or is that a good solution ? Gas engineer was going to check his books but wandered if anyone here could offer an opinion. We could disc cut a new slot in the concrete that seems to be right across back of garden and dig new trench but is tight where needs to go round a corner as need to get drainage in as well. Here are couple of pictures of the potential trench that could use at end of the run: Would people advise just going for the new trench although there is manhole at end of second shot to content with but could go to right of that as pipes are at 1m but just seems easier to go alongside wall ? Many thanks, Lawrence

Hi, Confused myself on regs (we are in Wales) for lintel overhang (bit that rests on block work), always thought was 150mm each end on new block work, builder put some lintels in today over a 900 wide window opening, the window is on first floor with a second floor to go above. The overhang is approx 130mm each end - googled it and found in couple of places saying can be reduced t0 100mm on openings less than 1.2m - is that correct as also saw some posts that that changed a few years back to always be 150mm ? Any clarification much appreciated, Lawrence

Thanks for all great replies, fantastic forum, first time, poster, will have a think about the options posted, good to hear other peoples suggestions, thanks, Lawrence

Good point I have blacked out windows in rear too but think that is more for privacy rather than reduce of solar gain so not sure how similar they would be in appearance.

Hi we are looking at some 4.8m sliders and 2.5m bi-folds in a south west facing garden and worried about overheating. Been looking at various solutions including pergolas and Brise Soleil to create shading. Did find on one site that for a Brise Soleil in south west elevation would need 0.7m * window height (2m) so 1.4m to create an adequate shield, we are probably more West than South West where recommended elevation is even bigger. Keep coming back to solar control glass but really nervous that it will make everything look a bit dull when looking out. As far as I can tell these three glasses are essentially the same but potentially made under license: Saint Gobain SGG Bioclean Natura Pilkington Activ SunShade Neutral Glass Systems Ecoclean Sunshield Neutral with sun control None of them have decent pictures although claim to be neutral but which reflecting approx 70 of solar reflection thus reducing solar gain also only lets in approx 40% of the light. The pilkington site mentions a slight grey appearance, all the ranges also do a blue, bronze or aqua type tint that want to avoid. Anyone faced similar dilemma and plumped for solar control glass or haven't and wished they had ? Be great to hear from anyone with one of the above products and get a feel for how it is looking out on both a sunny and a grey day. Torn between just going clear triple glazed which reduces solar gain a bit over double I believe and dealing with the hot days and then enjoying clear glass for the rest of the time. Likely to have internal roller blinds on wall inside but whilst these I think will cut the light out the heat will already be in. Some of the pergola ideas seen images of look quite smart but not sure really want to go that route. Any help greatly appreciated. Lawrence