Matt540
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Blocking MVHR for an Air Tightness Test
Matt540 replied to cswd's topic in Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery (MVHR)
I just disconnected the main intake and exhaust to and from the unit and taped bin bags over the ends. Seemed to do the trick -
I’ve been using this for my air tightness tape around the windows and doors. https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/product/tescon-primer-rp Really good stuff, was warned not to get the aerosol version as it could damage the EPS. I’ve just been painting this stuff on with an old brush
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Thanks guys. Follow up question to this is does the manifold pump generally run off some kind of relay controlled by the ashp to enable at appropriate times or is it on 24/7?
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Just watching this video and noticed he says he doesn’t fit a circulating pump to the ufh manifold and runs it direct from the heat pump? is this common practice? Just about to start first fix on my build and wondering if I should be doing away with the pump and blending valve and run the pipes directly into the manifold?
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I wrote out my own budget sheet on excel showing as much detail as i could, some lines i referenced quotes i had received and others i just entered a value i had estimated myself through online pricing and my own calculations. i then just added a line for 10% contingency and this all went through with no issues. as long as you are realistic i don't think they will have any objections
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Thanks @JohnMo and @Marvin understood and all makes sense. im just thinking out loud and may be completely wrong but what I don’t understand is, if I have a single zone under floor heating with flow set to achieve deltaT of 5° then the return to the ASHP will always be 5°c less than the output? So no cycling? the only “cycling” then could be the room stat demanding the heat on/off? if that happens then surely you can reduce the flow temperature of the ASHP to the point where it naturally heats the house to the desired temperature and just ticks over (long cycle time) regardless if you have 30L or 300L in the system?
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I’m struggling to find a calculation or rule that explains if a buffer tank is required or not. I’ve spent alot of time trying to research but all I seem to find is two groups of people who are either for buffer tanks (reduce cycling etc) who say a buffer is needed in every scenario or the smaller group who say you don’t necessarily need one and you can run a very good system without a buffer. Both sides have valid reasoning behind them but I struggle to find a solid answer how you work out if one is required. I understand it’s to do with the minimum system volume. I’m looking at a 5kw vaillant system and all the tech specs say regarding volume is 15/40l for thawing mode. i will be running UFH on the ground floor as a single zone in one open system with 100mm centres to increase system volume and allow for lower more efficient flow temps. along with DHW. So all I’m trying to understand is how I work out the best system design, buffer or not. thanks Matt
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Has anyone got experience dealing with Allan bros windows and any comments on the quality of their product? Their quote is one that’s in my shortlist but they’re so far away at the other end of the country I’ve not seen their products in person. any info would be appreciated thanks
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Thanks guys so an excel style table should suffice? Did you go into a lot of detail and provide evidence of quotations?
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Hi all have just received my DIP and now progressing to the full application. I need to provide "professional costings". my costings so far have all been done by myself on excel by calculating material costs and getting quotes from individual suppliers (icf, windows etc.) interested to hear what others have submitted and if this has been sufficient or i do truly need a "professional" to go over the costings Thanks Matt
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Hi all planning on installing a PV setup in my upcoming project and one of the small concerns i have is where will I put all the PV ancillaries (inverter, cutoffs, meters. Etc) All installations I’ve seen online these are normally on a cement board in the garage or utility room. Unfortunately with the size of my build I don’t have these options. My consumer unit will be on the wall in the corner of the kitchen/diner and I was happy that this wouldn’t be too unsightly, however now with the addition of solar, the extra wiring and ancillaries would become a bit much to have out in the open. my initial thoughts are to build a shallow wardrobe style cupboard that can contain everything electrical but I’m not 100% sure of A. How much space it really takes up? and B. Is it okay to have these components in a cupboard? I understand an inverter can generate a bit of heat so maybe needs some amount of ventilation thanks
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Thanks guys. Doesn’t seem like it’s going to make much of a difference then