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  1. Nick Im stuck for space mounting the CH manifold. If the rads are downstairs and the manifold on the first floor(higher than the rads) by fixed horizontally like Grahams, is it possible to simply rotate the bleed into the vertical position? Im using Hep20 15mm barrier 'lay flat'.
  2. I have used resilient bars and 15mm sound block plaster board. Layed on top is 100mm Rockwool sound bat (not the cheap stuff). At the edges of the ceiling you must seal the bar mounted plasterboard with acoustic/fire proof sealent. I used Fsi tubes, loads of them. I havent bothered with strips on top of the joists. The effect is very good. Ive done this as I have fixtures for surround sound and large panels in all inhabitable rooms. 3 miles of cat 6 laid at the moment, 4 cables to each TV point, plus a shotgun sat cable. This will go with the whole house audio. Resilient bars go up first, then the plaster board then the Rockwool. The Sound bloc is a flag ship product. I have Wolf Easi joist so I can run the first fix central heat after the plasteboard goes up. If you have inset lighting that destroys the acoustic isolation. Ive gone for surface mount. The ceiling level is fantasticly flat, even the inspectors said that. No inset back boxes in the plaster board either. Any holes bypas your required effect. Dont double up on the plaster board as some people say to do. 15mm Sound block plasterboard is damn near 40Kg a sheet, double up and its 80Kg. This may over strees the joists. I havent used a membrane other than over the kitchen or shower rooms. Now if Mike Graham gives me good news to my message about the manifold, I can stop thinking about where to shove the thing.
  3. If its a new build you will have to get an energy survey carried out. This will tell you what thickness of floor insualtion you can get to meet current building regs. I often hear you need 150mm of floor insulation, however this is not the case. The survey is a whole house calculation, should cost about £250. In my case 130mm of floor insulation met current building regs.
  4. That should have been fixed by the dryliner adding a layer of gunge along the top and bottom of the dot and dab. The difficulty is when the house is using plasterboard on Gypliner or batten. Fixing all the holes is a right pain. Then throw in ceilings on resilent bars.
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