Ryan Bazeley

Hi, I have a detached garage which houses the plant room and utility with a covered walkway attached to my house in which the pipes / electrics run. my garage has been built in single skin 4” blocks. I am wondering if there is any point insulating the plant room or utility and if so what is the best way to do it? thanks.

Thanks for the comments, a company called National Vent are recommending it, my electricians work with them.

Hi, I have been specd the Environvent energisava 400 MVHR for my new build? Has any one got / installed one of these and can give me advice if it’s any good? Many Thanks

Hi, I have just had an Aluminium Standing Seamed roof installed which is finished in Anthracite colour. There were footprints all over the roof as it was muddy / wet on-site when being installed. I decided I would wash them off and what I have found is the footprints have ingrained into the powder coat finish leaving faint white marks? Is there anything I can use to remove this or can they not be removed? Thanks.

My plan was to insulate the wall with some soundproofing material, I can pretty much build what will suit in front of the unit, I also want to make sure I have good access. Didn’t think about rubber mounts, good idea. Not sure about the boost speeds?? I did discuss with the supplier about turning it down at night which if there are noise issues will help.

Hi, I am having a dilemma as to where to install my MVHR. Location 1 - in store / plant room. This was the original plan but after needing some steels fitting the duct runs now have to be longer and there are many many holes I need to drill through I beams. Location 2 - behind built in wardrobes in bedroom. Perfect spot above all wet rooms, shorter duct runs, less drilling but although boxed in it will be in the bedroom area, will noise be an issue? I have opted for an Airflow DV145 unit as I have been told it will be less noisy and a much better unit than a Vent Axia? TIA

At the base of the cement board it shows some sort of starter trim (highlighted in yellow) on the technical drawings. Is this required, if so where do you get them, I have searched but can’t seem to find it? RE New Build, St Merryn.pdf

Decided it was best to use bigger battens for the render carrier board, gone for 38mm x 63mm treated CLS, the 50mm fixing face has been bothering me. The extra cost is insane!!

Thanks Simon, Is it best for 50 x 50 or cross batten 25 x 50? cheers

Hi, do you guys have any photos or drawings showing how to finish render board where it meets the soffit to keep a ventilation gap? My roof is standing seam with a metal soffit and I am struggling to know how to finish where these meet without it looking rubbish?

Hi, I have a steel opening (pictures below). Originally it was to be fixed at DPC level but has been changed to be 250mm below DPC so am able to finish the cladding correctly due to the size of the concrete plinth. I am cladding with render board. I will be covering the bottom of the steel with concrete up to DPC level, is there anything I should cover it in before pouring, wrap it in DPC? What is the best way to insulate the beams, celotex? thanks

Thank you for your advice. This maybe ridiculous but if I used 25 x 50 battens then 25 x 75 to join the boards the 25 x 75 finished size is actually 22mm deep, would this be an issue? I was going to vent the walls out through the roof void, it is a SIP roof and I was planning on 25 x 50 battens with 18mm ply on top before the metal covering, Will 25mm be a big enough space? Is it a requirement to fit fire stops? Is it only between floors or anywhere else? What product is best to use? Thanks,

Hi all, I have a few questions if anyone can help me? 1) I am using 25 x 50 battens to attach my renderboard, on the ends of the boards can I use separate battens for each board or should I attach them to the same batten? Separate battens would be far easier but I am worried it may cause problems? 2) My SIP installer has told me there will be very little settlement / movement so would it be okay to run battens the full length or do I need to consider leaving gaps between the ground and first floor or anywhere else, is there anywhere I can go to get a plan / design? 3) I don’t know how I can finish above windows and doors to leave a ventilation gap to make it look good? Surely it would just be a gap with mesh which doesn’t look great? Thanks!

IGNORE THIS, I AM AN IDIOT!! It was a 200mm radius bend ?

Can someone please help me? The waste pipes that are cast in my slab out to the sewer pipe are 110mm. I have noticed on my plans that BC have stated I should use a 200mm pipe! I will have 3 bathrooms which will all drain into the one stack, would that be the reason they say 200mm? I can change it if necessary but do I need to? Thanks

Tony Tray, That’s the one!! Thanks for that, need to order VCL is there anything you recommend or are they pretty much all the same?

Hello, So next week the house is going up! Has anyone got any tips or advice on things I should do? I have read some posts on here recently about installing a VCL under the first floor joists (it was called something?) Anyone’s past experiences would be very much appreciated! cheers

Hi, I have 2 steel posts 152 x 152 x 37 that need to sit on concrete pads finished at DPC level. I am waiting for the structural engineers detail but I am assuming they each need to be cast on top of the footings but am unsure what size they would need to be 200 x 200?? Only posting as waiting for the detail from SE but it’s really holding me up so thinking about chancing it?

Wow this is a hot topic! Thanks for the comments / advice. I have had quotes from a few companies all about the same price for the equipment, probably right about the design fee although the free ones I’ve had are very basic. I know it’s not rocket science but I would hate to install a unit and it to be noisy / incorrectly installed when in the scheme of it and how long it will be needed it’s a small cost. Still in two minds what to do there is so much choice and difference in option! ??

Hi, In the process of deciding which make of unit and associated pipe work etc to go for. I have a few quotes from different companies which all recommend different units from Zehnder, Airflow and Vent Axia. I have decided to go for a professional design and supply but install it all myself. Before I decide I was wondering what experiences and thoughts people have on what they have and any advice / recommendations. My thought at the moment is to go with a company called Solarcrest, there design service is £780 and they recommend the Airflow Adroit DV145 with Airflex Pro Radial Ducting. Once installed they will inspect and commission for £600. Thanks!

I am based in Cornwall, I am using a company called SIP HUS.

Have you contacted a SIPS company for supply and install? The company I have used carry out all the structural calculations and design the structure to suit the architects drawings, it was tweaked in some places to avoid extra steels etc but it was all discussed with me at each stage.

Very nice! Have you gone all timber cladding or any render system??

Thanks, how did you leave ventilation gaps above windows and doors? I’ve been thinking about this and surely you would see a gap with mesh in especially above large sliding doors. Is there a detail you followed?