Ryan Bazeley

Only me again overthinking what I need to do…… ? If all goes to plan SIP structure should be up ready for follow on trades by 1st July. I am going to clad the outside with part render board / render and part metal. I have asked before if I should get the roof (standing seamed) installed before cladding most people say clad first? Surely I need to ensure there is a ventilation gap bottom and top so that would mean having the standing seam roof installed along with soffits then batten / clad up to it leaving a ventilation gap? Anyone done this, am I right?

SimonD…. Thanks for your comments, I have been looking into your points the last few days. I am at the point now where it is too late to add a material with better thermal performance such as a Marmox Thermoblock under the sole plate. When I look at the make up of my build at soleplate (below) the inside insulation goes up over the sole plate so surely this is going to stop the thermal bridge / transfer of air? Most details I see have the floor level with the bottom of the sole plate. Thanks for everyone’s comments on this I feel more relaxed about it, footings being poured this week so becoming very real, on to the next thing to worry about!

Thanks for your comments IanR, very well explained. I take it from this then that the most important think to do is to ensure the VCL is installed correctly so the inside is as airtight as possible. Will email Kingspan to ask about EWI.

I have seen you comment on this before on older posts, thanks for your comment that is exactly what my installer has said!

Surely in the UK the temperature swing would not cause it to condensate enough to cause a real problem as it would dry out??

Thanks for your comments, so being rational my sole plate isn’t going to rot out and house fall down? ?

I see you have 50mm perimeter insulation, I also see this a lot, what is the purpose of this. Do you finish it beneath the sole plate?

Hi Bitpipe, sorry, yes the highlighted section is the sole plate on top of the DPC. Not sure on I will find out, I spoke with Kingspan and my installer at length about it and they said this is a standard way to do it and there will no problems as long as sole plate is kept dry which it will as it will be covered by cladding. searching on here for other things keeps coming up with the same issue of rotting sole plate?! It’s got me worried.

Can anyone who has built with SIPs help me please?! I have seen and read everything on here and the green building forum about this topic I have even written posts asking about it. Even with this my SIP is about to be erected (groundwork complete) and the picture below is what I have, the SIP company and Kingspan have all said when I asked them that there is no issue and it’s over the top installing Marmox blocks etc. My head is about to explode because I feel I have made a big error here, I am not going for passive standard I am just worried about this so called condensation issue and my sole plate rotting. Has anyone here built a SIP house on a standard block upstand with DPC under the sole plate and clad it in render board? Will what I am building be okay?

Hi, thanks for your comments. 25 x 50 battens are what’s specified by Kingspan so should be okay. I think?

Thanks, I suppose it doesn’t hurt to double up if needed?

I was going going to fix 12.5mm Knauf Exterior Aquapanel to my SIPS via 25mm x 50mm battens, reading the specification information from Knauf they insist on a minimum 60mm fixing face? Does anyone who has done this know if I should fit bigger battens or will it be okay? TIA

Hi, starting to schedule in various trades and am unsure the best way round to do things…. My frame will be clad in renderboard and finished in KRend and the roof will be a standing seam metal roof. Which one is best to get done first, the roof and then board up to the soffit and render or board / render first and finish the roof into it? I am getting different opinions from the roofing companies who are quoting.

Helpful......

Attached the plans, so build an outer skin for the plant and utility room and leave the garage as it is, I will lose space but probably be worth it. What about the floor that won’t be insulated?

Hi, I am building a plant room and utility built on to my garage all built from a single skin of block as part of my build it will be separate from the house. My question is I am concerned about having all the equipment in a building with no insulation and it may get damp? Should I plan to insulate the plant and utility room and what is the best way to go about it or are there any other suggestions?

Definitely not going with rubber!! Found a new installer today who use GreenCoat PLX it seems like good stuff, they said there is no shortage of material?!

Had a few issues with the installers but have found a new one who use GreenCoat PLX. They have said they will only install if there is a vented cavity and an 18mm deck. They seem to know there stuff and said they have roofed many SIPS.

Hi, I am meant to be having a standing seam steel roof on my new build, the installer has told me today that there is a massive shortage at the moment and has been told by the supplier there is none available until the early part of next year. He has recommended I go for a rubber roof with welded seams and it will look just as good and probably be better. Has anyone had this fitted on their house and what are your thoughts?

This stuff has been recommend by the installer, he said it is a waste of money and not necessary to construct a ventilation gap?

Thanks For your advice Ian great help. Out of interest why aluminium??

Hello, I am roofing my SIP using steel standing seamed sheets. The installer has said it can be fixed straight to the SIP but I am sure as like the cladding a ventilation gap is required? I am assuming the best way is to fix battens to the SIP then an 18mm OSB/PLY, breather membrane then steel sheets? Has anyone fitted a metal roof to their SIP build? TIA

Hi, Due to start my foundations next week and the excitement / fear is starting to set in!! I am after some reassurance or better options for bringing in my services. I have a detached garage in which there will be a plant room. The garage roof will be attached to the main house creating a covered walkway. My idea is this: Water and electric terminated into plant room, I will then run my pipe work and electrics through the joists into the main house. My BT will come into a cupboard in the main house. Should I consider running spare ducts from the plant room into the main house? Thanks, Ryan

I will find the document that my architecht sent to me and post it. Regardless of this what is the worst case scenario if I decide to install the foundations for the extra 1m section without planning consent?

On the planning portal information it does state that no more than 1m extension to plans can be submitted as a NMC. My architecht spoke with the planning officer and they recommended submitting for a NMC. The remaining distance to boundary is 5m and the extension size is 1m x 5.6m giving an increase of about 5% to overall internal floor area.