Tom

I thought it was an Austin Allegro, lol

Crikey, any one on here still think the earth is flat? Peace out @joe90 and @JohnMo, weather's too good to be stuck inside: I'm going to bend some coat hangers and give this a go

https://www.eden4plumbing.co.uk/ They seem to have done most if not all of the boreholes in the area. Can't remember her name, but there is a woman who works in the office who has an encyclopaedic knowledge - she remembered ours form 15yrs ago....

Okay okay, but just finding water by drilling in the ground does not mean he was "spot on" - saying this implies that it was the best place to drill, which is impossible to say unless multiple holes are drilled. I'm sure you could make a reasonable guess on where to drill just by looking at local topography. No divining rods needed. As for finding a water main, different I guess (though is is third hand information/heresay?) - but has any water divining ever actually held up to scientific scrutiny? Sounds like I'm being an irritating pedant, sorry if so @JohnMo, just my science background bubbling to the surface I guess! Genuinely interested if anyone knows of any controlled studies pitting divining against educated guesswork.

Sure, but how do you know a better spot might not have been 5/10/50m away? Without multiple drills I guess you'd never know if he was "spot on" or not!

Aha! Guess you've tried ML Eden?

How do you know?

Whoever drilled the borehole could have a record of where it is - if you don't know who did it try ringing around a few of the local companies (probably not very many) and one should have a record of it.

Looks like a Charles Austen pump, and easy enough to get a service kit from any number of online suppliers, which would include a new diaphragm/s. Turn the thing off, get the kit and fit it yourself, very simple to do. Same here! Though in our case the hose had just come detached from the pump. They seem to go smelly when it goes anaerobic.

I've got a recirculating downdraft going in soon and have often mulled the idea of plumbing an ozone generator in to the exhaust outlet to help with smells - reading the above it seems this is probably unnecessary. Just wonder if it might be worth a go though, or if it's even possible. Any thoughts?

Why's everyone calling then Farko? I think they're Fakro, if you arks me

Would you put primer down on the compound or just leave it do you think? Coir mat going over the top anyway.

Bosh! Took eleven bags in the end. I had ten, 45 minute round trip to Screwfix for the eleventh, naturally

Thanks all, really helpful. For now I guess I'll just get a cabinet so the sparks has somewhere to take the cables to. Here's a picture where it'll go, the cables and power can come down from the trunking above, marked in green. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for wall mounted cabinets?

Thanks everyone, so I need a patch panel, patch leads, switch, data cabinet - would I ideally have power going to the data cabinet? I'll have a look at Ubiquiti... Our 4G is great, we stream everything through it - faster than fibre at our previous address!

Evening all, so I spec'd network cable all over the place but haven't really thought through what needs to go at the end of it. I really have no idea re networks - what do I need? Our internet connection is going to come via 4G if that makes any difference. Do I need a router or a switch?

Mostly for dropping keys and money through I reckon

Believe me we went through every way of doing this! Spending a week in January with a Hilti floor chaser, then last weekend with my SDS drill, has worked out OK in the end.

Yep, the coir stuff. I'll probably lay it in 2m wide strips width-ways, bits near the door will wear down quicker and need replacing sooner anyway.

This stuff do? What's the advantage of a two part? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ultra-Level-Self-Levelling-Compound/dp/B01MSZ2NA9?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A270JM2WSBBETT

Hi all, I've finally managed to chisel out the mat well we have between our front doors (9m x 1.2m) and now plan to edge it with right-angled steel and cover the rough concrete with a self levelling compound. I've never used this before - I guess I need to prime/seal the raw concrete? Any recommendations for this and the compound? Depth will be 5-8mm approx. Thanks all

I have a large Roof Maker non-opener with electric blackout blind - seems like a very well-built unit and the blind works well. Looks much better than the standard Velux from outside and was simple to fit - though caused lots of scratching of heads as it wasn't a Velux. I fitted it myself in the end and couldn't have been easier. I have two windows that are collecting dust that I couldn't use as I had measured wrong if you want them (not a million miles from Exmouth) - though they don't have blinds.

Thanks @JohnMo, seems like I've been oversold a load of thermostats and actuators by Wunda...! I certainly prefer the idea of keeping it all simpler as you suggest. I have a floor probe in the concrete of the large zone, so that could be retained - though as you indicate above, perhaps I don't even need that if the ASHP would modulate itself down to zero. Would the bedrooms be a bit too warm though, if I rely on a "one flow-temp fits all" approach? I could just suck it and see, can always add back in thermostats and actuators as we learn to live with it.

Hi All - our UFH is set up at the moment such that we have one very large zone (abouth 1km of pipe), and then lots of smaller zones (80-90m of pipe)- bedrooms, en suite etc. I want to run the ASHP at it's most efficient so I'm concerned that these small zones, if allowed free reign, would result in short cycling. Would it be possible/feasible to set up the ASHP controller (Mitsubishi) so that a small-zone thermostat can only successfully call for heat IF the large zone is also calling for heat? The small zone can then switch off when needed, or continue to call for heat even if the large zone has subsequently stopped. I've asked the ASHP installer but have yet to receive a reply, would be great to see if any one here thinks this worthwhile or a waste of time or just not possible. Thanks all

Aaahh, gotcha @Dillsue. Checked our tarrif and we get about 12p/kWh generated and 5p/kWh for the 50% we are deemed to export. Will do the sums re deemed/metered but with 13kW on the roof I'm thinking metered would be better, and at only 5p/kWh for what we do export any that I can divert would be a bonus