Tom

If you think it's where the sheets overlap you could run a strip of roofing membrane in between the sheets at these points (cut just shy of the edges so you don't see it. This might allow some slight movement between the sheets without the noise. Actually, thinking about it, when we put our sheets on the roof (same as yours, 13/3 black corrugated) we used a mastic strip where they overlap to effectively stick them together but allow some movement. Did you do this? Our roof isn't that noisy at all, though we do have a ton of PV covering most of it.

Stick a load of PV panels on it?

Just when you think something can't go wrong, it does. It also goes wrong when you think it will. Basically, it always goes wrong. I'd be asking the kitchen supplier for a partial refund of their storage fees as clearly not all the kitchen was in storage!

I remember that @SteamyTea, think they made osb boxes on site that slotted together, then filled with blown cellulose.

So, as an update, after conferring with the installer and the Mitsubishi Ecodan helpline, it seems I can't set the system to do what I want it to do. If the hot water is scheduled to come on it will always come on, even if only half a degree below the target temp. Seems like an expensive way to heat the water by half a degree. If I take it off the schedule, it will purely be controlled by the thermostat, so switch itself on when it has dropped 10 degrees. Oh well, first world problems I guess.

Thanks @ProDave, but the issue for me is that while it's set at a 10deg drop, which is what I want, it isnt doing it.

Thanks @SimonD, it's an Ecodan ASHP (monobloc so no indoor unit) and the cylinder is from Tempest designed for ASHPs. I have entered the installers menu on the Mitsubishi controller and see that you can set one parameter "max temp drop" which is set at 10deg, research today indicates this is the hysteresis. So, with this set as it is, it should mean the cylinder doesn't call for heat unless it has fallen by at least 10 degrees below the set temp. However, as above, mine does - so I'm wondering if it is the lack of a second temperature probe - the one further up the cylinder - that is causing the problem and making the controller always believe the tank is >10deg below target.

One at a time please. So, on further I research I see that the hot water cylinder should have two temperature probes: one half way up that calls for heat, and a lower one that shows when up to temp and shuts the heat off. Here's the thing: my cylinder only has one probe, the lower one. So does this mean that, assuming the lower probe remains below temp and not "shutting of" the heat, the absence of an upper probe means it will always call for heat?

Hi all - my Ecodan ASHP comes on once a day to heat water but is set up in such a way that if it is only 1deg below target it comes on. Is there a way to set it so that it would say need to drop 10deg before calling for heat? I cant find this in the normal or installer menus. Thanks all

Yep, clearly the better option, thanks for the reality check 👍

Thanks @Oz07, there wont be a skirting board along this side, and the joists run perpendicular to the gap. I could run a circular saw down the gap and cut off the "tongue" of the chipboard flooring, then use a 35mmx22mm strip of wood to fill I guess.

Hi all - we have a mezzanine area that we need to get carpeted and unfortunately the chipboard flooring boards don't go quite to the edge (see pic). There's about a 35mm gap x 5m, which is just too wide to be covered by the carpet gripper strip. I'm unsure what to fill this with, the timber just visible is the wall plate and there are a few gaps that extend in to the ceiling void, so anything liquid will flow into these. What would you suggest? I don't have any more of the woodchip to use unfortunately. Thanks

A lot better. Eh? What makes you think this? It's what they call "sintered stone" I think, basically a mad made stone created with immense temperature and pressure. It's very like pocelain, but better. It's practically impervious to any scratching, solvents, staining etc - unlike the resin composite worktops. The downside is it has to be cut, machined etc by specialists.

You're right there are lots if stone resin manufacturers, they're all probably much the same. Dekton is a very different material though

Just Google dekton worktops and you get lots of suppliers popping up. If you do some on-line quotes you soon get the salesmen coming out of the woodwork, then play hardball 👍