Tom

Stop dicking around with lasers and get a Ziplevel! https://www.groundscare-products.co.uk/ziplevel.html

For the rooflights I did yes, as there was nothing too fancy involved. For our valley gutter I got a pro in as it needed welding in expansion joints etc I quite enjoyed working with the lead tbh, seemed very forgiving.

So needy! Here's the leadwork after I'd finished bashing it around, and my set-up: had to keep the adjacent corrugations pressed down while hammering, to stop it all popping back up, whack-a-mole style. Fun times.

We used the Roofmaker rooflights in our corrugated roof - much preferred them over the Velux/Fakro, but much more expensive. I used lead rather than self-adhesive flashing which was a bit of a pain as it needed lots of shaping to follow the corrugations but the end result looks good.

Ah sorry, yes, cycling - gotcha. We have no buffer but a lot of pipework and thick concrete and screed to suck heat (and lose heat I guess) - so generally cycles tend to be long. We do have a low loss header if that affects things?

Thanks @JohnMo, we're 100% UFH so all good. I'll track down the model number this evening and look it up. What do you mean by "long compressor cycles" - and how would I know?

Hi All - we had our Ecodan ASHP installed last year and only really used it in anger from December when we moved in to the house. It's been unused since March/April. I asked the installers recently how we could switch it to cooling, as it would be nice to have the option to cool in the bedrooms (over the heatwaves this summer temps have gone up to ~25deg), but after trying to brush me off with "the unit is not set up to do that" they have finally come back with this: "The pipework wouldn't have been insulated sufficiently to deal with cooling. Therefore, the buildup of condensation may cause further issues. To mitigate this, we would need to add a heat exchanger/cooling exchanger directly after the primary pipework, which would mean adapting the primary pipe work. " Does that make sense? Surely it's got to be simpler than that? If there might be an issue with condensation then a few of the pipes might need to be lagged perhaps (which, tbh, they should be anyway to reduce heat loss when heating) - but a heat exchanger? Any advice gratefully received!

Welcome @Willus. We're in south Devon and just about completed our Nudura build. If you still have chickens on site be warned as the little bastards love to peck at the EPS! Presume you have gone down the Part Q to full planning route too?

Hi all, finally got started on my stairs and have cut the first stringer. I've supported the top of the first stringer on a ledger with a bird beak cut in the stringer. Does this look right? Worried it's taken too much meat out of the stringer. Thanks all.

roger that, CT1 it is 👍

I used one like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09PNLVHP3/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?pd_rd_i=B09PNLVHP3&pd_rd_w=A9PBE&content-id=amzn1.sym.9a64fe05-cdee-4d53-a27b-f3614d726545&pf_rd_p=9a64fe05-cdee-4d53-a27b-f3614d726545&pf_rd_r=3EBMY20F0XGQ0YFN5J7D&pd_rd_wg=D09Q1&pd_rd_r=67cd59af-6a3b-43d3-9e59-cf89b99b13de&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1 Worked very well for our nudura build

Hi all - one of the many jobs that are on my long list to complete is to fill/seal the gap between our polished concrete floor and sliding door frame. Not least as in the last few weeks we've had several swarms of flying ants coming through. What would be the best thing to use here? The width of the gap is about 10mm - though does vary a little. I was thinking of CTI, but there might be a little movement in the floor as it has UFH so then I thought compriband. Any view on what would be best? Thanks Tom

All dowsing techniques seem to follow what I describe - an item (be it hazel twig, coat hangar etc) held in balance or under tension, this inherently unstable setup allows the item to move, apparently involuntarily, by the ideomotor effect. I did, decades ago, and you can certainly convince yourself it works - but then you apply some rational thought, and much as it would be nice to think of mystical powers, ley lines, joss sticks etc, all logical reasoning and evidence points to the mundane.

Come on then Ian, I'll split the $1m with you

I think the issue is what we are taking as the meaning of "work". If you mean it can occasionally find a pipe etc - OK then maybe it can. But this is because the bent wire is under tension, the bent rods are finely balanced etc - and hence respond to imperceptible changes in hand position, and it is the user who is subconsciously responding to environmental clues. This is possibly why dowsing has repeatedly been shown to fail under more rigorous testing - these environmental/topographical etc clues aren't there. If you mean "work" as some channel for some hidden energy or powers of the paranormal - then no, that's just bollocks!