Tom

Thanks Joth. I did raise a concern at the start of the install re putting the data and AC wires in the same trunking, but it seems they weren't too concerned. Not that I found that very reassuring! Is there a way of assessing interference with the CAT6a before I make the final payment?

I only charred the one side, though I stained the edges with a black wood stain

We went with charred timber for some of our cladding and love it. I charred it myself and after a bit of trial and error got a pretty good system going. Happy to share if anyone wants to do similar

Sounds interesting, was that a Part Q conversion? Our build was a Part Q then full planning, and has had PD rights removed. Will be interested to see if this can be reversed.

We put half our UFH in the concrete slab and tbh this was far less of a pain to do than the other half we decided to lay on top of the slab and screed over. Our slab was 200mm and had two layers of rebar mesh (actually four, two at the bottom of the slab and two at the top), I tied the UFH pipes to the bottom layers of mesh then put the top rebar layers on, separated by rebar deckchairs. I did this all myself so could make absolutely sure no pipes were damaged. Seems to have worked well.

We've been in our static for 3.5 years now (fml) and the only heating we have is a wood burner which I let die down in late evening. Call my crazy, but why do you need heat overnight if you're in bed? Buy another duvet!

Oooh, my bad. Would be tight I guess with one year already gone and you'd have to gamble that the Part Q goalposts haven't moved if you need to renew

Hi - the seller's structural reports isn't worth the paper it's written on - this would have been produced simply to get the thing through the planning process. If you are serious about the project then you will have to spend a bit of money and get your own structural report which will give you a less biased idea about feasibility. Also, don't underestimate the costs of getting services to site - depending on how close the nearest electricity supply is this can be tend of thousands - do some research now. Armed with both of the above, this could give you some leverage to negotiate price with the seller. Finally, what are the chances of getting full planning permission? Would likely make everything simpler/cheaper. Have a look on your local planning portal to see if other Part Qs in the area have been granted full planning. Seems to vary by region. In answer to your questions: 1. Waaay too many variables. Re 3 years, as long as you've started then it's fine. 2. Waaaaay too many variables! 3. See above and... read this site, visit others in the area doing Class Q conversions, find a friendly builder?

Yep. They're semi-recessed. There are access panels though (photo above taken through one of them). Just spoken to him and he says access is just too tight - but concedes could be done if given enough time, but doesn't sound like he's willing to change them.

Certainly didn't agree that he wouldn't use flexi pipes, but then again you'd assume that any decent plumber would use materials suitable to the job. Access is a bit tight but with a bit of time and effort I'm sure he could fit a proper waste. Agree re the push-fit elbows too. FFS, as ever two steps forwards, one step back.

Our plumber has just about finished now, and was today making the final connections to taps, sink etc. I've just been round to have a look and am disappointed to see he's used flexible connectors for the wastes in the en suite and bathroom. Am I right to think this is a bodge?

I thought it was an Austin Allegro, lol

Crikey, any one on here still think the earth is flat? Peace out @joe90 and @JohnMo, weather's too good to be stuck inside: I'm going to bend some coat hangers and give this a go

https://www.eden4plumbing.co.uk/ They seem to have done most if not all of the boreholes in the area. Can't remember her name, but there is a woman who works in the office who has an encyclopaedic knowledge - she remembered ours form 15yrs ago....

Okay okay, but just finding water by drilling in the ground does not mean he was "spot on" - saying this implies that it was the best place to drill, which is impossible to say unless multiple holes are drilled. I'm sure you could make a reasonable guess on where to drill just by looking at local topography. No divining rods needed. As for finding a water main, different I guess (though is is third hand information/heresay?) - but has any water divining ever actually held up to scientific scrutiny? Sounds like I'm being an irritating pedant, sorry if so @JohnMo, just my science background bubbling to the surface I guess! Genuinely interested if anyone knows of any controlled studies pitting divining against educated guesswork.