garrymartin

So you had an actual refusal, not just an email or similar saying they were minded to refuse it, and then they've reconsidered and now approved the application? Didn't even know they were allowed to do that once an application had been refused. Regardless, glad it's worked out for you of course.

They're not a replacement for the backbox or dry-lining box - they go over the top to make plastering easier and, when then cut out, the hole left much cleaner. See https://www.beadmaster.co.uk/ and you'll quickly get the idea. £1.50ish for a single gang and £2.20ish for a double with further discounts in bulk. They also do a downlight version now.

If the *internal* floor area is less than or equal to 15m2, even within 1m of the boundary, the "substantially non-combustible materials" element does not apply.

In my research notes, I have a comment that Nordan are not highly rated - @Kelvin and @saveasteading have them and may be able to provide their views. They are on my "B" list of companies, as are Nordvest but I have no notes or commentary on Nordvest. Rationel are on my "A" list but I would expect them to cost slightly more. Have you looked at Norrsken (also on my "A" list - made by Viking Windows)? @Thorfun @Russell griffiths @Tosh and @MikeSharp01 have them and might provide some opinions.

Amazing property. Recorded the programme whilst on holiday and watched it on our return. Well done. Can I ask, is it wet underfloor heating throughout using the ASHP? If so, what is your first-floor build-up?

18 mph apparently.

No AI's were harmed during this answer... 😉

I'm guessing from a quick look on Insta that it's because it was a Paragraph 79 build.

If the plywood is screwed to the trusses, then my guess would be someone thought it would be sufficient to provide a storage platform. Then they started to worry about it coming down on anything stored in the garage and so added the two joists and the joist hangers as an afterthought. Any weight on the plywood would likely just pop any screws put into it so the joists just add a little bit of extra help to stop that happening. Only two screws in them though... 🤣

I believe RC2 is only applicable to windows. For doors, my understanding is that it needs to be RC3. https://georgebarnsdale.co.uk/blog/what-do-we-mean-by-secure-windows-and-doors/

As a self-builder, you're exempt from the legislation that requires at least 10% BNG. In my area there is still a policy requirement to leave conditions no worse. This, by definition, implies "at least some biodiversity gain" so I don't think it is an unusual condition. Just be careful about how they will want it measured and proved in order to discharge the condition.

Not strictly true... NPPF Paragraph 38 "**38.** Local planning authorities should approach decisions on proposed development in a positive and creative way. They should use the full range of planning tools available, including brownfield registers and permission in principle, and work proactively with applicants to secure developments that will improve the economic, social and environmental conditions of the area. Decision-makers at every level should seek to approve applications for sustainable development where possible."

If I can provide any photos of my install or anything that might be useful for you, just let me know.

I have a WB Greenstar 30CDi Classic System boiler. If it's the integral diverter kit you are looking at, it needs to be fitted before the boiler is fixed to the wall so you need to take that into account. Download the instruction manual for the diverter and it will show you what's involved in fitting it.

No. Doors typically have a solid lipping on the sides, top, and bottom. The thickness of the lipping generally depends on the quality of the door - my XL Joinery doors have 20mm solid oak lippings. The hinges you mention would screw into the solid oak lipping as per the diagram below.