garrymartin

Difficult to tell from the angle of the photo, and you may need to bend the pipe to get round the vertical stud, but the first logical thing to do (as you have one leg capped and not in use) would be to use that leg to feed the connection through the wall (bit of extra pipe required), and put the cap on the vertical rising leg. That would remove three 90 degree bends from the flow going through the wall and is something you could do yourself with push-fit fittings.

In real life, copper pipes under the floor might spring a leak (pinholes in bad copper that had been down for 20+ years and eventually corroded through) and you might need to dig stuff up to find the leak and effect a repair...

Not for this particular topic, but for future reference @Nickfromwales, can I assume that where you are struggling with floor height differences, you could either rip the P5 up and ply directly to the joists, or you could put ply down instead of P5 for tiled areas in the first place?

I have Tikkurila Anti-Reflex in bathrooms and in my kitchen. Technically, for the same reasons F&B quote it's not specifically recommended for those areas, but I've had zero issues with it.

Not sure about the Tikkurila, but you can definitely get Johnstone's tinted. Our local Johnstone's definitely used to have the F&B codes for mixing.

Following up on Russell's post, I've used Tikkurila Anti-Reflex throughout my home on the ceilings and would never use anything else. Excellent paint. Hides many issues. Not sure Farrow & Ball have premium paint, but they definitely have premium marketing... 😉

That's still the modern way of doing it. It's a 5A socket used almost exclusively for lighting (table, floor, bed-side, etc.) and they're almost always operated from a wall switch. You see them a lot in high-end lighting installations.

When we asked this question of MBC, they said they didn't, but they did have a partner company they work with that you could contract directly with if you wanted. Or you could use your architect.

I think we're going to have to agree to disagree on this one @Mattg4321 - even the OSG states "The current demand of a final circuit is determined by adding the current demands of all points of utilisation and equipment in the circuit and, where appropriate, making an allowance for diversity." I'd argue that it isn't appropriate when you have a final circuit (radial) feeding a single appliance such as an induction hob or an oven as there aren't multiple points of utilisation. AFAIK, the Cooking Appliances calculation has been in the guides with the same information since at least 1966, so I'd argue it's long overdue for an update to take into account modern cooking appliances and installation approaches! 🙂

I think the calculations you are referring to relate to the design current for the protective device, not the size of the cable you should put in. But caveat, I'm not an electrician either... 😉

Diversity only applies where there are multiple loads on a single cable. Whilst it might be appropriate for my combination oven and warming drawer example, it's not appropriate for the induction hob, as this is the only load on the radial circuit. Same reasons as for an electric shower - diversity isn't applied because it's the only load on the circuit.

There's a whole series of tables and calculations related to cable and protective device sizing in BS 7671. Start with this video to understand how complex it can get and why your electrician should be doing the relevant calculations. By the way, 100% agree with the comment about personal research so that you are informed and can pose sensible questions and query statements. But you really want the electrician to be professionally responsible for the calculations and installation.

If you've got an electrician, why aren't they doing the necessary calculations? You have to consider voltage drop over the distances you mention, as well as the route the cable will take and whether any of that route is insulated. Some induction hobs are in the 11kW range. If your oven uses pyrolytic cleaning, and it's a double oven, even 6mm2 may not be enough. At the extreme, an 11kW induction hob at the end of a 25m run of cable enclosed in insulation could need a 25mm2 cable and a 50A RCBO or equivalent. Can't stress strongly enough that your electrician should be looking at these sorts of considerations and advising you on the appropriate cable sizes. Like @Russell griffiths we have 10mm2 to an induction hob, 6mm2 to a pyrolytic single oven, and 6mm2 to a combination pyrolytic oven/microwave which also serves a warming drawer, all on radial circuits with their own RCBOs.

Perfectly fine. Crossing has fewer issues than running in parallel, and even that is not a big deal given the number of cables and voltages we are talking about in residential construction.

You can definitely do it alone @Andeh assuming you have the skills, but you will also need a helper at various points for help with lifting, holding, etc. I built a 3.6m x 4.8m (external, excluding cladding) garden room with a garden store in 2018 with help from my wife. We kept the internal floor area under 15m2 as we were building close to the boundary, and the eaves height below 2.5m for the same reason. Hence no planning permission or building regulations requirement. It cost just over £12K at that time, but that included absolutely everything, including the 3m bifolds, all internal finishing and various sundry tools I bought to make it easier to build. It didn't include the cost of the insulated concrete base and the dwarf wall, as those costs were included in the garden design and landscaping bill.