garrymartin

If the runoff can be managed on-site naturally, then the surface does not have to be permeable to be SUDS compliant. There should be lots of options that don't require you to rip it up.

It was mentioned at the start of the thread that they might be looking at multi-room fan coils. I presume the ducting runs were discussed in relation to that device. The conversation then seemed to move on to single-room devices due to the potential complexity and lack of design experience.

Absolutely possible. You can pressure test individual loops, or you can connect all the loops to each other and just run one pressure test. The manifold does not need to be in place to test the pipework.

No, it does not sound correct. New drives in front gardens over 5m2 need to be permeable or discharge to a permeable area, but that is only to avoid the need for planning permission. So, two questions. What did your planning approval say about the drive surface (if anything), and does the surface water from it discharge to a permeable area, or can it be made to? It's all about flooding and reducing pressure on public drains, so if that is not applicable, it's unlikely you'll need to change anything.

Difficult to tell from the angle of the photo, and you may need to bend the pipe to get round the vertical stud, but the first logical thing to do (as you have one leg capped and not in use) would be to use that leg to feed the connection through the wall (bit of extra pipe required), and put the cap on the vertical rising leg. That would remove three 90 degree bends from the flow going through the wall and is something you could do yourself with push-fit fittings.

In real life, copper pipes under the floor might spring a leak (pinholes in bad copper that had been down for 20+ years and eventually corroded through) and you might need to dig stuff up to find the leak and effect a repair...

Not for this particular topic, but for future reference @Nickfromwales, can I assume that where you are struggling with floor height differences, you could either rip the P5 up and ply directly to the joists, or you could put ply down instead of P5 for tiled areas in the first place?

I have Tikkurila Anti-Reflex in bathrooms and in my kitchen. Technically, for the same reasons F&B quote it's not specifically recommended for those areas, but I've had zero issues with it.

Not sure about the Tikkurila, but you can definitely get Johnstone's tinted. Our local Johnstone's definitely used to have the F&B codes for mixing.

Following up on Russell's post, I've used Tikkurila Anti-Reflex throughout my home on the ceilings and would never use anything else. Excellent paint. Hides many issues. Not sure Farrow & Ball have premium paint, but they definitely have premium marketing... 😉

That's still the modern way of doing it. It's a 5A socket used almost exclusively for lighting (table, floor, bed-side, etc.) and they're almost always operated from a wall switch. You see them a lot in high-end lighting installations.

When we asked this question of MBC, they said they didn't, but they did have a partner company they work with that you could contract directly with if you wanted. Or you could use your architect.

I think we're going to have to agree to disagree on this one @Mattg4321 - even the OSG states "The current demand of a final circuit is determined by adding the current demands of all points of utilisation and equipment in the circuit and, where appropriate, making an allowance for diversity." I'd argue that it isn't appropriate when you have a final circuit (radial) feeding a single appliance such as an induction hob or an oven as there aren't multiple points of utilisation. AFAIK, the Cooking Appliances calculation has been in the guides with the same information since at least 1966, so I'd argue it's long overdue for an update to take into account modern cooking appliances and installation approaches! 🙂

I think the calculations you are referring to relate to the design current for the protective device, not the size of the cable you should put in. But caveat, I'm not an electrician either... 😉

Diversity only applies where there are multiple loads on a single cable. Whilst it might be appropriate for my combination oven and warming drawer example, it's not appropriate for the induction hob, as this is the only load on the radial circuit. Same reasons as for an electric shower - diversity isn't applied because it's the only load on the circuit.