garrymartin

I believe the Part M document refers to "wall-mounted sockets" in relation to the minimum distances. AFAIK, floor-mounted sockets are still allowed, but always best to check with your BCO for their guidance.

It is. And if you have multiple different cabling uses (network, cctv, TV distribution, etc.) it comes in a wide variety of colours. It seems to be a favourite of many high-end installers.

I don't have detailed comparisons, but my understanding is that depending on various factors, it can be 50% to 200% or more expensive than standard double glazing. If you're really restricted from a listed building approval perspective, that may be something that's financially palatable though.

Oh, also, something else I learned on Buildhub from @Dan1983 is Astragal bars which are decorative, surface-mounted strips applied to both the inside and outside of double or triple-glazed window panes to create the authentic, subdivided appearance of traditional small-paned Georgian windows. They might be useful for your situation, given your original images.

Take a look at https://historicengland.org.uk/images-books/publications/adapting-historic-buildings-energy-carbon-efficiency-advice-note-18/ released in February 2026. I also recently learned about vacuum double glazing when I was looking at similar issues on listed buildings. Might be of interest if you can't get approval for standard double glazing. https://www.vacuumglazing.co.uk/landvac-enhance-heritage-vacuum-glazing/

CAT6 will do 10Gbps so long as the cable isn't very long (37-55m max generally). You can't go wrong with TruHD Cat 6 HDBaseT Cable - tested to 500MHz, so good for 10Gbps if needed. Details and pricing - https://www.fscables.com/products/cat-6-hdbaset.html Datasheet - https://www.fscables.com/sites/admin/plugins/elfinder/files/fscables/Datasheets/C6T00-E00.pdf

I'm not a user, but https://www.sunsave.energy/solar-panels-advice/exporting-to-the-grid/best-heat-pump-tariffs

Congratulations! It's been a privilege to follow along with you as the build progressed, and I'm sure you've given many people hope and inspiration for their own endeavours. May you have many happy years in your new home.

Errrr.... that was your photo they referenced @Benpointer 🤣

Benpointer on buildhub - "The ‘spaghetti’ in the bottom left corner is where all of our external service ducts come into the plant room. 17 ducts in total, including two spare at present, (I may have over-catered): 1. Power to ASHP 2. Power to garden 3. Water pipe to garden 4. Water pipe to workshop 5. Power to workshop 6. Lighting circuit - switched external lights 7. Data to workshop 8. Live power supply in (SSE - single phase) 9. Fibre in (Openreach) 10. Water mains in (Wessex Water) 11. Power to sewage treatment plant 12. PV panel in 13. PV panel in 14. Power to EV charger 15. Data for CCTV 16. Spare 50mm duct (to workshop) 17. Spare 50mm duct (to workshop)" You might also consider control cables for the ASHP ( @Russell griffiths suggestion) and data to the EV charger if not included in the power cable make-up.

Your continued progress and quality of work is quite inspirational. Good luck with moving in!

I've got another couple of choices in my notes... # Selectric FRB-4 2 Gang 47mm Galvanised Steel Back Box – Earths – Fire Rated **SKU** FRB-4 https://www.electricalsonline.co.uk/products/selectric-frb-4-2-gang-47mm-galvanised-steel-back-box-earths-fire-rated?variant=45425845403874&country=GB&currency=GBP # Niglon FR472 2 Gang 47mm Dry Lining Fire Rated Metal Back Box SKU: FR472 https://www.electrical4less.co.uk/product/niglon-fr472-2-gang-47mm-dry-lining-fire-rated-metal-back-box/

My notes say it's recommended to be not more than 2.5 TOG. Also in my notes, @JohnMo put it best from a physics perspective - "Insulated below at a higher thermal resistance to whatever is above the floor to ensure heat moves upwards not downwards". So whilst the ground-floor bedroom and sitting room might be OK sitting on 150mm insulation, you may find that your chosen carpet provides enough insulation on the first floor that the heat radiates downwards instead of upwards.

I'm with @G and J and @Conor with regards to using the bay window area as the access to a new master suite. I'd be inclined to see if you could lose a little more space in the existing bedroom so that you could run a wall of wardrobes opposite the bay window. It's currently shown as 1.37m - if you extended that by a mere 130mm you would have a 900mm corridor, and a 600mm deep bank of wardrobes. That way, your corridor becomes even more functional as a dressing room leading into your master suite. Depends on how close your existing bedroom door is to the stairs, but it might be possible. I would also look at differing arrangements of your master bed position, window position, and the ensuite "block" to create something that flows a little better and looks more pleasant visually.

OK. They will cut through a nail, but you reduce the working life of the bit. From the "Tech-Tips" at the bottom of the page - " When encountering a metal object, if possible reposition the drilled hole. Continued drilling with the Nail-Proof WoodBeaver will reduce it’s working life"