garrymartin

I've got another couple of choices in my notes... # Selectric FRB-4 2 Gang 47mm Galvanised Steel Back Box – Earths – Fire Rated **SKU** FRB-4 https://www.electricalsonline.co.uk/products/selectric-frb-4-2-gang-47mm-galvanised-steel-back-box-earths-fire-rated?variant=45425845403874&country=GB&currency=GBP # Niglon FR472 2 Gang 47mm Dry Lining Fire Rated Metal Back Box SKU: FR472 https://www.electrical4less.co.uk/product/niglon-fr472-2-gang-47mm-dry-lining-fire-rated-metal-back-box/

My notes say it's recommended to be not more than 2.5 TOG. Also in my notes, @JohnMo put it best from a physics perspective - "Insulated below at a higher thermal resistance to whatever is above the floor to ensure heat moves upwards not downwards". So whilst the ground-floor bedroom and sitting room might be OK sitting on 150mm insulation, you may find that your chosen carpet provides enough insulation on the first floor that the heat radiates downwards instead of upwards.

I'm with @G and J and @Conor with regards to using the bay window area as the access to a new master suite. I'd be inclined to see if you could lose a little more space in the existing bedroom so that you could run a wall of wardrobes opposite the bay window. It's currently shown as 1.37m - if you extended that by a mere 130mm you would have a 900mm corridor, and a 600mm deep bank of wardrobes. That way, your corridor becomes even more functional as a dressing room leading into your master suite. Depends on how close your existing bedroom door is to the stairs, but it might be possible. I would also look at differing arrangements of your master bed position, window position, and the ensuite "block" to create something that flows a little better and looks more pleasant visually.

OK. They will cut through a nail, but you reduce the working life of the bit. From the "Tech-Tips" at the bottom of the page - " When encountering a metal object, if possible reposition the drilled hole. Continued drilling with the Nail-Proof WoodBeaver will reduce it’s working life"

Armeg Nail-Proof Wood Beaver bits https://armeg.com/products/nail-proof-woodbeaver/ But, to be clear, they won't cut through nails; they will just survive hitting them. So once you hit a nail or screw, you either need to remove it or you need to re-position your hole.

Personally, I'd scrap the PIR and Impey Waterguard and put 60mm Marmox straight to the slab with tile adhesive (possibly another 10mm on top at 90-degree depending on existing floor height). Stick the UFH mat on top of that. A couple of conduits with temperature sensors in them (one for backup).Self-levelling compound over it (fibre reinforced). Tile on top of that. You'll probably end up very close to the height of your other flooring, and it will be a very straightforward buildup.

Does your plot have *any* permission on it? If not, you need to start right there.

The fantastic progress and quality results continue! If you've not just been incredibly lucky, and you're able to share, I'm sure everyone would love to know the process you went through to find and appoint your various trades.

It was just an example. To be honest, I don't know how they can sell a 25m extension cable with 2.5mm2 cores for that price. Costs more than that to buy just the cable! But heh, it's a UK company, and has both CE and UKCA marking. Might just be a bargain! (NOTE they also sell it as a kit with a 5kVA 110V transformer, so specifically for the purpose @saveasteading is looking to us it)

Something like this; 2.5mm2 3-core with 4 sockets https://www.amazon.co.uk/Portable-Blue-Extension-Lead-Cable/dp/B0FVZH1JQD

The cable used in those is listed as 1.25mm2 - you should go for something much heavier duty. Minimum 2.5mm2 considering the distance and use.

Have you looked at different brands of pattress boxes? Perhaps another brand has the same layout holes?

Take a look at this... https://www.e-paint.co.uk/colour-alternatives.asp?cRange=BS+4800/5252&cRef=18+B+29&cDescription=Raven RAL 7024 seems to be the closest Classic RAL match, but note it only has two stars, which means "close, but distinguishable". I have the RAL K7 Classic fandeck and RAL 7024 only seems to have a very slight blue tinge to my eye. As @Bonner notes, 7015 might also be a match for you, depending on your finish. It's slightly lighter than 7024 but still has that slight blue tinge.

Do you have a spare piece of the roofing? Take it to a decent paint shop that does colour matching. They will probably have the RAL charts available.

Great designs by the way. Based on your first design posted, I would have suggested losing the window to the plant room (needed?) and widening the vertical entrance and glazing to balance things out a little on that elevation. Interesting to see that in these designs, there is no plant room window, and in the first alternate, the vertical entrance glazing is widened... 😉