Ed21

You seem to have a void to the left of kitchen cabinet. Why not make the cupboard 400mm instead of 500mm (guessing by the size of the fridge). and build the carcass so shelves go into the void. This will increase the storage space by as much as 50% at least, even allow for a decent corner feature and allow for a wall upto 100mm, with as much sound insulation you can get in. PS: It can also look better. We tend to like symmetrical or offset, close to symmetrical can upset the eye, which why 600 + 600 is ok as is 600 + 400, but 600 + 500 not so much.

Hi, new member here looking for a bit of clear advice I've got a post-war bungalow with cavity walls and lime/cement plaster. It's got no cavity insulation and was thinking about adding 50mm PIR on the inside. Just over what seems an age ago now, I bought a load of 25m foil backed Celotex. Ok so the dilemma now is that I seem to have at least 4 options !!!!!! As this is the first room of the entire property, I want to get this right first time, so advice on the right config would be much appreciated. So options are: Remove all plaster, add a concrete slurry (if needed) 1. Add 2x 25mm in opposing layers, then plasterboard on top fixing all the way through to brick. 2. Add 25mm, then Batten on top and infill voids with 25mm, then plasterboard on top. 3. Fix battens to wall, infill with 25mm, then 25mm over the lot then plasterboard on top. VPC where? Some websites say under PB others say against wall, some not needed at all. - confused. And then Options 1, 2 & 3, but on top of the plaster as is. My preference is to batten the wall (easier to deal with levels) with plaster remaining, fill the voids with 25mm and seal. Then add another layer of 25mm over the top again sealing the wall, which should mean no need for another VPC. Finally fix the PB through the 25mm to the battens. I've been dithering on this for a week now and itching to start this weekend, so any advice very appreciated. Ed