gaz_moose

ive only done 2 epdm roofs so am far from an expert. it looks like your epdm is set to somehow go over the top of the edge trim. with the plastic stuff the edge trim goes on last then you pull the epdm downwards and trim it with a stanley knife. theres loads of videos on it by a youtube guy called oakwood garden rooms, thats how i learned it.

as mad as it sounds, I quite like the velcro idea.

those fillet strip details look fiddly. the plastic kurb edge trim just gets nailed on with poly top nails and looks kind of naff. I guess you could nail it along the top edge so you dont see the fixings.

I've put this little kitchen in and it has freestanding fridge and freezer to go under the counter. i was going to put an end panel on the side of the drawer base unit then and end panel between the appliances. This leaves me with about a 50mm gap between the last unit and the wall, My plan is to scribe an infill panel but im stuck on how to fix it. If it was a cupboard i would fix the infill to that. I obviously need to fix it to the wall but id like it to go in after the appliances to give me some wiggle room when sliding them in. Hafele Drawer & Panel Connectors Cream White 10 Pack - Screwfix I've seen these fixing that look like they are what i need but are they a fit and never come apart setup? As id like to make things a bit easier when taking the appliances back out again etc..

if you waterproof them and water does get in then how is that water going to get back out? I waterproofed some fence panels with some waterproofer from screwfix, the water just beads off it like a waxed car. some areas of concrete fence posts got sprayed in the same stuff and would repell the water. (i should really have a look to see how it is holding up when its next raining but not minging) I did read in the reviews that some mad man used it on a brick wall with good results.

i drive a few Citroen Ami's regularly and i would never recommend to buy one to use as an actual car.

i bought a 'rollerdoor' one off ebay. the cheaper ones with the shorter slats are thinner and less insulated/ more flimsy than the taller/thicker slats. i installed it on my own in a few hours. id got quotes from 2 local places to install near identical items and i think they wanted about 2 grand more than i paid for the door only. NODS one looks better as it has those white guide wheels in the top corners whereas mine just has the top bit of frame bent into a curve (which i had to bend to adjust as the door was catching the top box inner cover). id just buy it and fit it yourself unless you cant be bothered. they are really easy to do.

worst case it will need a bit of easi-fill to sort out any rough bits. as others have said it is achieved by not being crap at plastering. As a crap plasterer, I would say you can see where they have wet brushed it to clean it after plastering.

looks like you have some good stuff to sell.

loads of people have drama with that brush in stuff. seems to crack/crumble/fall out. id second flow point. those paving expert guys are decent guys.

i used to work next door to a double glazing glass place and they cut/ground a few car windows to size for me over the years. i know that car screens are laminated but the sides and back are toughened. can you not knock the walls around?

just buy an insulated one, also referred to as a reefer or a mobile site office. Somewhere i used to work had me put windows etc.. into a shipping container to be used as a fabrication bay and it was awful to work inside. the guys who build recovery trucks out of old tesco delivery vans often sell the old box body's for not very much.

the rest of the conservatory looks pretty old. i think I would knock it all down and start again. My conservatory was wooden built with twin wall roofing and i gave up bodging it with flashing tape. now it has a OSB3 and EPDM roof and is fantastic.

i get what you are saying but these are properly stuck down. the only way im going to get them up is to either sand them off or grind them off or just smash off the concrete underneath which will just make loads of dangerous dust. there is literally about 1m^2 left the rest have been blasted off years ago by someone else. every house round these parts basically have white or brown asbestos floor tiles, its just how it is.

Those beds full of lavender will look smart. Id probably chuck a load of daffodil / snow drop bulbs in too so you get a bit of colour in jan/March before your lavender wakes up in May. post a picture if you get round to the triangle bits.