BadgerBadger

Our build has beam & block floor with masonry cavity walls, the inner leaf extra wide DPC was built in and left hanging ready for the DPM to be joined to it. That time has now come! 😅 I'm getting mixed messages on how to seal the DPM to the DPC. Should I be using the double-sided butyl strip stuff between the lap, with extra single-signed DPM tape over the joint? Or is something else commonly done? Similarly, if need to join to sections of DPM I've heard everything from "just overlap it lots" to the same double-taping as above.

I have hired plant cover as part of my overall site insurance, was a relatively modest extra if I remember.

That's what I've been telling my wife when she asks why the glazing isn't happening 👍 😂

We turned our attention elsewhere over the summer, the frame is in but we haven't tried to glaze it yet. About to take delivery of the door from joiner, so will try in next couple of months and report back. (Give me a nudge!) Worth noting - we've had one very large split on a piece in the frame over the summer that's going to need sorting before we glaze. Good example of the sort of "risk" you'd otherwise be asking a contractor to shoulder.

Welcome - let the username confusion commence!! 🤣

Quite a bit, there's about 30-40mm of frame over the outer leaf and the rest is in the cavity supported by the brackets fixed to inner leaf.

Thanks all - so general consensus is there's no set solution and I need to work something out 👍 Variation in the brickwork reveals mean the gap to build-up is different on every window, need to get airtightness sorted, and aiming for bullnose plaster corners too 🫣

Rational windows are in, and have been fitted to internal block work with brackets. But I seem to be a bit stuck on how to finish the internal reveals? All my drawings just show insulation material around the brackets with plasterboard on top. But any ideas how I actually achieve that?! Rest of the walls are wet plastered.

Reclaim hasn't been submitted, but I've making sure I follow up with all suppliers and get a proper VAT receipt after payment 👍 I've had various proforma invoices issued from companies along the way that i haven't gone ahead with for one reason or another, so fairly understandable that HMRC can't accept them as proof that VAT has been paid.

I think I'll aim for middle then!! 🤣 Thanks

So are you on the "cold side" of your insulation? As you say, would be good to keep well away from UFH even though our flow temps would be relatively low. I had though of running them pretty much on the beam & block, with majority of insulation over the top but was concerned about freezing. That said, not sure if the beam & block would actually ever really get towards 0 degrees.

I'd like to sanity check a plumbing plan please! Our kitchen is in a high vaulted space and quite a long way from the plant room / UVC. So my options for pipework is 1) a convoluted route up through the loft, along a service void in the vaulted ceiling and back down wall to the kitchen or 2) a slightly bendy route, but somewhat shorter, route under the floor screed. Floor buildup is beam & block, 140mm insulation and 55mm liquid screed with UFH. Pipe runs will be single length of plastic pipe with no joints under floor, in narrow duct so they are theoretically replaceable to meet water regs. My current thought is to put them in a channel in the insulation, with some thin insulation covering them to give a bit of separation from the screed/UFH. Does that sound logical, or any other ideas?!

We were in a similar situation and did all of groundworks and substructure without mains. Relied on neighbours with a hosepipe, a m3 of water is really quite a lot so we just sent them a thank you card, box of biscuits and £20 once we were connected. We filled big blue barrels of water for the brickies to use and had a chemical toilet in a shed to save on portaloo hire (which adds up very quickly) Got mains sewer connection in very early, so I could empty chemical loo on-site. Only once did I have to put it in my car and take it home, not recommended!

If it helps, you could look at getting your own slips cut down from regular bricks. Might give you a few more options with local brick cutting yards.

I'm fairly certain you're not allowed to stack marmox thermoblocks on top of eachother, they have to be single layer.