Tetrarch

I'm not suggesting that roofs "snap in half". I would expect that boats are made to a higher standard and using better materials than an average roof. My (admittedly limited) experience is that that formed overhangs of GRP roofs become brittle after exposure to sunlight and weather. I've not seen a problem with damp penetrating a sheet of GRP but I have experienced two occasions (one is a commercial property I am responsible for and once in my own home) where a formed GRP edging cracked and split (in my own home less than 3 years) and allowed water to penetrate and rot the sub decking from the edge inwards. On the commercial property an old (15 year) seam in a GRP roof also failed Regards Tet

I'm not a fan of GRP. My main gripe is photostability. In my (limited) experience GRP tends towards brittleness as it ages. Regards Tet

The Alumasc stuff looks nice but it is very expensive. I have two 3500mm x 400mm parapet walls to cap and I'm looking at over a grand in Alumasc which seems very punchy. I'm in Kent too and looking for a recommendation for a local fabricator. I had fascia made, but the end caps probably need to be fabricated to get a good finish Regards Tet

I recall watching a TV programme in the last couple of years where a couple wanted a two-storey window by a stairwell, rather like the one you describe. My memory is leading me towards "Your Home Made Perfect" and I think it was the beardy slightly weird guy that had the plan. I have tried looking for it but it must have been series 1 or 2 and they are no longer on iPlayer. My recollection is that Building Control kiboshed the plan and they ended up having to split the window in two. I apologise that I can't be more definitive, but maybe it might jog someone else's memory Regards Tet

Would you kindly tell me what the process actually is and what I am apparently misunderstanding? If the approved application (per the council's website) is identical to the original submission then is there any excuse for the validation not to have been backdated? Regards Tet

You are incorrect. The application was absolutely unchanged from its submission on 30th January. No corrections, additions or queries. It's only upon checking my emails that I realised that my architect sent a chaser on 20th Feb. The validation email was expedited the same day and not backdated Additionally, every single one of my numerous applications decisions were advised on day 56, with one exception which was day 55 Regards Tet

Can you send a pic of the inside of your UH8? Mine is below with the dials indicated. Regards Tet

This is incorrect. From my own planning applications Received: Tue 30 Jan 2024 | Validated: Tue 20 Feb 2024 | Status: Granted

I have two external flues - one for a pellet boiler and one for a log burner The picture above shows the install before the upper floor was demolished and the window removed. I am combining the boiler "house" and the external fireplace inside a single structure with a proper roof. I have some flexibility as to location of the flues and was wondering what the rules are regarding how close together they can be Regards Tet

The other end is an L-shape. I have two of these channels and the neatest way to finsih the glass panels would be to mitre the two, necessitating the reduction in the length of the channel. The alernative is to butt the two channels, but then the glass join will be less neat. These channels will be bolted to a steel plate that will itself be affixed to the 8x2's that form the edge of the hallway Regards Tet

Hi Dave, Thanks for taking the trouble to reply. I obviously didn't explain myself properly. I have annotated the picture a little, What I was asking is about the regulations concerning the distance from the edge of the stairs at which the banister may start i.e. the distance between the red lines. In a perfect world the banister would extend to the very lip of the stairs, but with planned install I am about 70mm short of achieving this

I want to install an L-shaped glass balustrade. My problem is that I have bought a 2.5m glass balustrade side-fix channel and if and when it is mitre-cut it will shorten the overall length by ~70mm This will leave the actual glass banister short of the top step on the landing. I attach a couple of photos of the channel in its final (longitudinal) position. How do I find the regulations as to what is permitted regarding banisters/newel post positioning and what are th consequences for not complying with said regulations should this prove to be the case? Regards Tet

I currently have a 60A fuse and an unmoored cable that needs reconnecting (and rerouting) after a house refurb. My understanding is that, as my predicted use (solar array etc) will be closer to 100A, but not high enough to require 3-phase then I am entitled to a new fuse and install free. Obviously, I would like a new cable as well but I am hoping that I can get this for free also. Is there any way for me to tell what my current cable is rated for? Regards Tet

It's a great idea to think ahead and I would concur with the previous comments about a low oven being a poor choice. I would also suggest that drawers are very much more accesible that cupboards below the worktop, though considerably more expensive Have you considered putting the hob on the island (a downdraft recirculating one) and making the units where the hob currenty is three tall units Fridge/Oven+Microwave/Freezer? This would remove the unsightly and discordant fridge/freezer from its current location and give you some space to the right of the sink Regards Tet

Yessir UV Study here from Australia (where they get quite a lot!) : https://www.swiftsupplies.com.au/news-tips-and-guides/uv-resistant-rubber-guide/ Regards Tet