Tetrarch

Would you kindly tell me what the process actually is and what I am apparently misunderstanding? If the approved application (per the council's website) is identical to the original submission then is there any excuse for the validation not to have been backdated? Regards Tet

You are incorrect. The application was absolutely unchanged from its submission on 30th January. No corrections, additions or queries. It's only upon checking my emails that I realised that my architect sent a chaser on 20th Feb. The validation email was expedited the same day and not backdated Additionally, every single one of my numerous applications decisions were advised on day 56, with one exception which was day 55 Regards Tet

Can you send a pic of the inside of your UH8? Mine is below with the dials indicated. Regards Tet

This is incorrect. From my own planning applications Received: Tue 30 Jan 2024 | Validated: Tue 20 Feb 2024 | Status: Granted

I have two external flues - one for a pellet boiler and one for a log burner The picture above shows the install before the upper floor was demolished and the window removed. I am combining the boiler "house" and the external fireplace inside a single structure with a proper roof. I have some flexibility as to location of the flues and was wondering what the rules are regarding how close together they can be Regards Tet

The other end is an L-shape. I have two of these channels and the neatest way to finsih the glass panels would be to mitre the two, necessitating the reduction in the length of the channel. The alernative is to butt the two channels, but then the glass join will be less neat. These channels will be bolted to a steel plate that will itself be affixed to the 8x2's that form the edge of the hallway Regards Tet

Hi Dave, Thanks for taking the trouble to reply. I obviously didn't explain myself properly. I have annotated the picture a little, What I was asking is about the regulations concerning the distance from the edge of the stairs at which the banister may start i.e. the distance between the red lines. In a perfect world the banister would extend to the very lip of the stairs, but with planned install I am about 70mm short of achieving this

I want to install an L-shaped glass balustrade. My problem is that I have bought a 2.5m glass balustrade side-fix channel and if and when it is mitre-cut it will shorten the overall length by ~70mm This will leave the actual glass banister short of the top step on the landing. I attach a couple of photos of the channel in its final (longitudinal) position. How do I find the regulations as to what is permitted regarding banisters/newel post positioning and what are th consequences for not complying with said regulations should this prove to be the case? Regards Tet

I currently have a 60A fuse and an unmoored cable that needs reconnecting (and rerouting) after a house refurb. My understanding is that, as my predicted use (solar array etc) will be closer to 100A, but not high enough to require 3-phase then I am entitled to a new fuse and install free. Obviously, I would like a new cable as well but I am hoping that I can get this for free also. Is there any way for me to tell what my current cable is rated for? Regards Tet

It's a great idea to think ahead and I would concur with the previous comments about a low oven being a poor choice. I would also suggest that drawers are very much more accesible that cupboards below the worktop, though considerably more expensive Have you considered putting the hob on the island (a downdraft recirculating one) and making the units where the hob currenty is three tall units Fridge/Oven+Microwave/Freezer? This would remove the unsightly and discordant fridge/freezer from its current location and give you some space to the right of the sink Regards Tet

Yessir UV Study here from Australia (where they get quite a lot!) : https://www.swiftsupplies.com.au/news-tips-and-guides/uv-resistant-rubber-guide/ Regards Tet

I am a huge EPDM fanboy. I absolutely recognise your situation. I installed my own EPDM loose lay rubber roof in my previous house in 2003 and sold it in 2021. It's still there and I never experienced a single issue. I have insisted on EPDM for our new extension and am delighted with it installed, but, my god, did I have problems finding an installer. Every installer wants to put in the thing that they do and finding a genuine EPDM specialist is very difficult. I don't want felt - it DOES crack eventually and it DOES leak eventually and it does need replacing. In my opinion it's a liability I don't need. I also hate GRP. I had a small GRP roof put over an external fireplace and it barely lasted two years before cracking and losing it's waterproofing abilities. I have no direct experience of the polymer paint stuff, a repair done with this in a commercial property that I help with has also failed, though this was 5 years after the repair I used the thicker Firestone EPDM in my new extension and it is very much tougher than the normal stuff. I'm planning on a green roof at some point, so the thicker membrane seemed like the way to go. Here's a pic of the finished EPDM Good luck and regards Tet

Thank you - that is terrific information. I fully expect that the fire will only be used sparingly. Is it possible to use something like this as a manual vent? I can locate this directly behind the fire to make it invisible, but reachable when it is being used https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385765701438?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-153316-527457-8&mkcid=2&itemid=385765701438&targetid=4584757337645565&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=554427144&mkgroupid=1298524317493059&rlsatarget=pla-4584757337645565&abcId=9313282&merchantid=87779&msclkid=67fb7f5074de1dcfd3bb19d2d3237291 Regards Tet

Hi Just by way of explanation. The project has evolved significantly since it started. It is mostly new now eith a brand new insulated room.The diagram below shows the house as it is now Black = Insulated timber frame or BC-complaint 0.17 solid walls Orange = 1970s cavity wall Grey = 1914 solid wall Red = Added insulation In my opinion the house should be very airtight. The fireplace is a retained feature - it was something we wanted to keep and the WBS is as much an aesthetic choice as a secondary heat source Regards Tet

Completely agree with everything in your second paragraph. Can you tell me what kind of "supply vent" you bought? Regards Tet