Tetrarch

With the right kind of standoffs you secure the standoffs to the beam and then fit the glass to the standoffs in an entirely separate process. I found this on youtube to give you an idea: Just to note I have NOT installed these, but just came across this when doing my reseaach Regards Tet

You don't need these. For a standoff in a glulam (is there a better screw substrate?) you could use a regular coach screws - the biggest that you can safely insert Regards Tet

Things masively depend on the glulam beam construction and what's behind it but it looks like you have two options: Either some HD through bolts like these: https://www.fixingswarehouse.co.uk/products/toggler-snaptoggle-heavy-duty-toggle-bolts-bm10-25pk Or some M10/12 screws straight into the glulam - are there any load recommendations Regards Tet

I can't recommend FH Brundle highly enough. From order to delivery their people are absolutely top-notch, the prices are extremely keen and they keep you very well informed I wanted the standouts but didn't have enough vertical space on the return to make it work as you need (IIRC) 100mm below the low standout in the glass. Getting it exactly straight was a process but using their inserts and four post-it notes (a new construction unit) made it perfectly vertical Regards Tet

I looked at Aluflow. I'm going to make a recommendation but with one HUGE caveat www.clearamber.com aluflow deepflow gutterring is superb. Really strong and looks fantastic. Using the deepflow means that I haven't had to introduce any fall and they have no problem shifting water in the heaviest rain. I would unreservedly recommend if it wasn't for one detail...... The corners and fittings are cast and the main pipes must be extruded. I have found that the cast parts finish has gone matt over time. To their credit clearamber have offered to replace the faulty parts but 60% are already in-situ and I am loathe to change them out as they are screwed and siliconed. I may keep the roof-line ones as-are and just change the first floor, but I am still weighing my options Regards Tet

But he'd lose his floor space..... I was wondering whether you could take the walls in at the "shoulders", where the wall creases but then feather it so the floor remains unchanged Regards Tet

This instruction from the council will oblige you to sacrifice your loft room as one of your lettable spaces How much extra PIR do you actually need? Its a sloping roof - can you not just add thin PIR on the sides and then a thicker portion right at the apex to achieve what you need? Regards Tet

Welcome - from a fellow Kent dweller (Kentish Man in my case) This place is an incredible resource, invaluable advice and opinion - I have learnt so much, and continue to do so Much of your plans will depend on your local authority - if it's Sevenoaks then buckle-in it's going to be painful All things are possible if you have adequate budget, patience and a hide of leather Very best of luck Regards Tet

If you're cricketing then you might need behind your rooflight to divert the pooling that will inevitably occur there Regards Tet

I had a parapet wall specified on my 28sq m extension as I was trying to avoid downpipes on the rear elevation (side scuppers). Apart from the technical challenges you are encountering there is an aesthetic component as well. My original drawings looked like this: It turned out to be completely misleading as a warm roof is way thicker than the drawing would indicate and it would have left an enormous space above the patio doors. In the end I kept the side parapets and had a single deepflow gutter with a rain chain as a feature You can see that if I'd kept the rear parapet the rear wall would have dominated the elevation Regards Tet Ps Yes - I know, still waiting on my lead-man to return to finish off the parapets....

I'll see your 1TB in the 80's....... In 1956, IBM’s Data Processing Division in southern San Jose, Ca transported the first hard-drive that only held a whopping 5 megabytes of storage Regards Tet

From the information you have provided it would appear that they are going to install a parapet wall. They could use concrete stones, porcelain tiles, or some kind of capping like aluminium or zinc. Any of these would likely have a TINY overlap into your airspace. I would seriously consider how you are going to live with this and your neighbour after it is built. There is no way that you can specify how well (or badly) the final wall will be finished. There is nothing you can do to ensure the aesthetic finish of the wall. Furthermore, you cannot finish the wall yourself - not even paint - without permission. In my opinion I would play the long game. Make it easy for them to access your land on the condition that the quality of the external wall is good, as you will have to live with it - not your neighbour. Consider what finish you would prefer and get written permission to paint/render it as a condition of easy access. The ease of access is important as you want their bricklayers to make as good a job of it as possible Regards Tet

IMO - I'd take your timber framers offer. I had my (aluminium) "foffit" (not a real name but a one-piece combined fascia and soffit) installed immediately after the framing, but before any slating (though some leadwork was being done at the same time. You know your dimensions and wall covering thicknesses - so there's no real downside Regards Tet

I cannot recommend FH Brundle highly enough. Their custoner service is the best I have EVER come across. Not just the sales guys, but the logistics people, the delivery guys and the staff in the warehouse who allowed us inspect a product (from a high shelf) before we committed. https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/handrailing-and-balustrade/frameless-glass-balustrade?via_sb=true My (side-mounted) internal stair balustrade is fixed to a 10mm steel plate bolted to a floor joist. The floor-mounted balustrade from FH Brundle may well do what you're looking for and at a fraction of the price Regards Tet

Thanks for the feedback. A direct feed would have been an excellent idea, but I have been in touch with Stovax, unfortunately it is not retrofittable. And 8.1kw IS big. It's that size because it fits the fireplace, not because the output is required - especially since we have sealed and heated the rest of the house! Regards Tet