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What don't you like about lightweight blocks? I was considering these along with aerated blocks.

Thanks, is that the same as the K106 panels?

Well colour me embarrassed, it looks like aerogels are not suitable for cavity walls!

Hi all, Would appreciate your thoughts. I am looking to keep the wall thickness to a minimum (withing reason), while meeting BR, which I think is 0.18 W/m2.K? Traditional brick and block construction, hoping at worst to have a 100mm cavity which would mean 302.5mm. I've asked for a price of Spacetherm which is a silica gel product and I'm considering Kingspan's OPTIM-R, lastly injected polyurethane foam would really suit the build but I think the performance isnt great? Many thanks

Good call on the 3 phase, ill ask for a quote. They aim for under 5 days to quote, it took them 3 for me.

Thanks all, looks like I'll accept and get on with it.

Hi all, Just had a quote back from SSE for my connection, it could have been worse, but would be good to compare to what others paid. Not too sure what a joint hole foot path is, I suspect its digging up the pavement? Many thanks!

Thanks Rob. Does that not screw the insulation and what not?

Hi all, I was hoping to spec a semi concealed gas meter box but after talking to BG they no longer offer this option. They say the alternatives are internal or recessed, any thoughts on these? Will be good to hear what others have opted for.

Hi it seems that if you have a passiv-esque house you will not need UFH upstairs and maybe no heating at all. My build is is more traditional, it won’t be insulated to that level or airtightness, for this reason I think I need to consider the upstairs heating as a must. Im reluctant to opt for radiators, one because it will waste space and two because I think they need to be run at a higher temperature. So with that in mind, I was considering UFH not only on the ground floor, but the 1st and 2nd floor too. Although I’m concerned about this set up too as there will be little room for insulation and I think the efficiency will be poor. Especially if I have wood flooring. Stone flooring upstairs doesn’t seem right some how. Another option is skirting board heating, but it looks *relatively* untested and also runs at a higher temperature. It is however neater and you don’t lose any space. Any thoughts would be welcome

Cheers chaps, I'll have a think about this one.

"peak rate of 0.1 l/s surface water run off to public foul sewer can be allowed" 2000l tank? The archaeologists will love that... Also, the only logical place it could go is under the drive, not sure how it will fair with a heavy car on it. I'm hopeful we can get the limit increased, as it is so small. If it was upped to 1l/s, I assume the tank would be a lot smaller?

Ah sorry, they agreed to allow a max of 0.1 l/s , which should be all that is needed for a once in 100yrs +CC situation. I didnt realise they were several thousands, that would be a swift kick as the rates are so small. The roof is around 53sqm. I thought a soakaway had to be X number of meters away from a building, and X was greater than what we have to play with. Could be wrong though. The land to the north is own by the LA, who have been very helpful.

Thanks Peter. There has only every been mention of a hydrobrake.

Not sure if this is the best place or if it is better in the design section? One of my planning conditions is Prior to the commencement of development, detailed proposals for the disposal of foul and surface water shall be submitted to and approved in writing by the Local Planning Authority. The submitted details must include a diagram of the surface water system, including details of the hydrobrake system used. I am allowed to use a the foul sewer (darker green lines) for excess surface water (blue lines), but have to use a hydrobrake to limit it to the agreed amount. I've been trying to come up with the plans needed to satisfy the condition, I'm a little concerned there is a 3 foul sewer pipes (lighter green lines) under the house especially considering it will have a slab foundation. It all looks rather messy, the land slopes to the front of the house. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Cheers, I found someone else's submission, seems they provided almost no detail! Still helpful though.

Hi all, One of my conditions is “No works shall commence on the dwellinghouse hereby approved until full joinery details, at a scale of 1:5, including section/profile details where necessary and all types of finishes, have been submitted to and approved in writing by the Local Planning Authority. Before I call up the planning office, has anyone else had this condition? If so, would you mind sharing what you submitted? I'm assuming its details on the bargeboards, windows and doors? If that is right, not sure on the level of detail they are expecting.

The councils street addressing dept, of course if you aren’t on a numbered street, then a name makes sense. However having a name in addition to the house number I’m not really seeing the point, they want me to confirm so I feel I may be missing something here ?

I can’t really see the point in this if I’m being honest, but thought I’d ask as they seem to be offering it and have specifically asked me. The house will have a number, so why have a name as well? Won’t that confuse thing or look a tad pretentious? Maybe I’m missing something though

Thanks chaps. The sides pretty level, definitely need topo survey done.

Im wondering if i can have a higher ridge height at the rear.. Not sure how the planners would react to that.

Thanks all for the replies I’ll have a good read later. The overall footprint is 6.2m by 9.3m, ridge is 7.75m and eaves 5m.

I wonder how much space is taken up by the width of the roof, ie tiles, rafters, insulation etc.

Yeah it’s not going to be easy but that’s the challenge. Hopefully shaving off cms here and there will make all the difference.

Sorry should have said it’s the 3rd bedroom with an en-suite.