NeilScotland

HI all, I have a Rubi Delta levelling system for my 100 x 100cm floor tiles. How do I set it up so that I can come back and lay next to dry tiles with fresh tiles in the coming days (I.e. the tiles that I need to cut will not be done the same day as the full tiles go down). Do I just add the floor clips to the edge of the tile where I finish, and then when I come back the following day(s) just adhesive over the top of the (bottom of) the clip, and then when levelling, the fresh tile will level with the previously laid (and dry) tile? thanks from a newbie. Neil

Thanks Nod. I haven't even laid a tile out yet - so... fingers crossed. How shallow have you went? (I.e. depth of trowel). thanks again, Neil

When I place a 1500mm level around the room /floor. It's level everywhere. There was a raised part at the door (the most important part!) but the builder came by today to level that off. Another pic for reference. It's about 20sq m. New extension to the house.

A better pic explaining what you see here..... it's circa 22mm

Aha yea, i was planning on that too. So..... any advice on what 12mm, 10mm etc would bed to - that would be welcome. I know I shouldn't but I might have no choice but to go for shallower bed..... it is tight. Below is a pic of the floor and the door ledge. thanks, Neil

Hi all, I have some 10mm tiles (1m x 1m) - so they are large. I believe i should use a 12mm adhesive base. Things are a bit tight - as the door level is about 20mm...... In any case, what would you expect a 12mm adhesive bed to go down to once the tile is placed? 8mm? (meaning my total circa 18mm). I'm using a large format adhesive, lightweight I believe, COBA 140 (not sure if this brand in UK - I'm in Amsterdam). Hope to hear, thanks. Neil

Yea, we marked them and numbered them. Screws mght be best way then. thanks all!

hmmm, I'm thinking holes are a lot easier to fill and sand, than a length of bonding agent.... per strap....

hahahah - thanks Nick; tested it out yesterday following Tony's post -(daisy chained - as the lights hat fittings for that) and worked great. Still alive ? Electrician will finalise it though.

Thanks Dave - what's the process /damage if you need to remove them in future?

Thanks Tony - very helpful.

Hi All, We've made a small design from some wood slats - and want to attach to wall. See image below - just temporarily stuck with tape. The wood is quite thin (circa 2cm thick) - and I want to avoid splitting it. The wall is not plasterboard and not solid concrete - its a combination of these sort of light /white style bricks inside (sorry, don't know name - they aren't load bearing bricks) - and then a layer of plaster. I don't have a nail gun (would be my preferred method). I think next best thing might be to pre-drill extremely thin hole through wood and wall, then counter sink some flat headed screws (i'm ultimately just trying to avoid splitting the wood). However- curious to hear if there are any better methods you advise? Bonding to wall is another - 'no more nails' type approach -but could get quite messy. Hope to hear, Neil

Hello, Ive built a small cove /wall - and I’d like to place the wiring for my lights before the electrician comes and wires things up. And! Primarily to allow me to get on with my plasterboard work. Below is my wiring diagram, and I just wanted to check if this was ok and ask a few questions. it’s some simple ikea lights (Leptiter) that take a mains supply. The supply will come from an electrical socket nearby (electrician told me this was how he would do it). Then a switch to isolate it is built into the unit /wall. Can I simply buy some lighting flex and wire to each of my lights, then take this to the switch outlet (switch isn’t installed yet! Just the hole drilled). Then, when sparky comes, he will terminate /join everything at the switch? Also, what cable should I buy? I notice he extended a light fitting we have elsewhere with a more flexible, 1.8mm cable (with an earth). but I think all the mains supplied lights in The house use a more rigid, 2.5mm cable..... Any help greatly appreciated. We are in he Netherlands, so things are slightly different in that they tend to use /run separate cables for N, L etc..... thanks, Neil

Thanks Steamy....

thanks Temp, but what exactly is 'push' dimming?...... the first link seems to be wrong.

No no, im in Amsterdam - originally from Scotland.... I just can't seem to understand exactly what he is saying to me and what the difference in 150 is actually for....... The lights need drivers, no matter what, I know that much. but there are three choices of drivers. Phase, 1-10v, DALI. thanks for reply.

Hi All, I'm having a rather difficult conversation with my electrician (he speaks Dutch and not great English, I speak English and not great Dutch)..... So, I was asking for the final cost of the work he will finish soon. He said: It's EUR xxx. This is with 3 push dimmers....If I have to use 1-10 volt dimmers the price will be +EUR 150 This was via whatsapp. However we had a conversation in person the other day when he was wiring (it's in a new extension we have) where he was explaining to me, not very well - how he had wired things up. And I think it's wired for everything but phase dimming. But he said it could be... (first point of my confusion). Of course, we have ordered phase dimming drivers for our lights. Anywaaaaay..... can someone explain to me what he might be referring to when he says: I hope the drivers are prepared for 1-10volt and push dim( most are). With push dimmers Total EURxxx. If the driver is only 1-10volt then xxx +150 I think I just want to know what might be an extra 150 - is it a physical difference in the dimmer switch or something else? Also, any guidance on what might be best for my lights would be appreciated - I have no clue! phase, Dali or 1-10v - I really don't know what is best. (They are all LED). But I seemingly have all options and I think he told me 1-10v is best. Have asked the lighting company if I can switch my order to 1-10v drivers. Hope this make sense. thank you very much, Neil Oh, and if there can be any clue from the attached pic to the wiring.....

Not so keen on using an adhesive if possible! much prefer screws..... i'm not in a hurry, so I coudl always predrill etc. thanks!!

Thanks Temp, Onoff - i'll see if I can source those screws (I'm in Amsterdam here - it's just finding the Dutch word sometimes that is difficult! ? ) I use DeWalt - so I was actually going to get an impact driver for this project. If you have a recommendation that would be great. I always see two offered together and never know which one is good for me. On the step - actually, it's only at this point and about 800mm wide. if you look across the whole ceiling at this point it narrows to within plaster-skimming-range (few mm)...... I mentioned it to the builders, they said it's just the shape of the old house.... not sure I buy that haha. I don't think a layer of plasterboard is going to work - what you don't see behind (the new build, in the other direction) is about 22sq m of ceiling. @Temp - when you say join two pieces of 2x4, I'm not sure I fully understand this? I guess one option would be to run my top plate through my saw to make it a little thinner. Once it's all in place, the plasterer is coming to skim both ceilings - to have them match (all in all it's about 50 sq m of ceiling). thanks again, pic for reference. Neil

Hi All, I'm creating a very small 'divider wall' (total width = 600mm) - which will hide the side of our soon-to-be kitchen (on one side) and will house shelves on the other. The wall is a sort of divider between our new extension and the old house. Old is concrete, new is wood /plasterboard. I have many questions - so I thought it maybe easier to just list them out and hear from your experience. I'm fairly novice but competent. To get the depth (300mm) I'm thinking two stud walls. Is that good practice? I'll use some 4x2 to 'join' the two walls and 2x2 for the noggins and frames for the shelving to go in after plasterwork What type of screws should I use to go straight into the concrete? Do I need to pre-drill and use rawlplugs or is there a special screw that can go straight in? You may see a lip at the top /ceiling (between old and new house) it's about 15mm and unfortunately it is around the center of the 4x2 frame that I will place on the ceiling. Should I add some sort of shims here or just screw it on - and although the frames wont align perfectly the plasterboard will hide these discrepancies.... Hope to hear from you, thanks, Neil

have a vacuum pump /carrier. Which helps......

Thanks Declan

Thanks Tony, Sorry - i’m a bit new to all this. I think i need one of these mixes that looks quite ‘stoney’.... corse. if that makes sense?How would i get to that? thanks again.

Hi Nod, Thanks. are you referring to the tiles or the edgers? I’m meaning which cement option should i use for the edgers. thanks!

OK. clear, thanks. Next question,.... what cement should i buy? ?