NeilScotland

I'm starting a decking project in the spring (Keen DIY'er) and so I'll have many questions to come... but, the first questions I have are about which type of structure to use. And are my spans ok? There is an absolute mountain of information out there about what is the best way to do this, it's quite over-whelming - but, from what I can see, there are two distinct differences in the base structure. And I'm not sure what is best for my own effort.... 1. Build a frame, put your joists in the frame, attach the frame to the support posts that you put in the ground. 2. Put supports in ground. Add some bearers. Place the joists on top of these bearers. (this requires more digging). Is there a right way or a wrong way of these options? I've drawn out a plan (Note: noggins to be added), based on all that I've seen - and it takes option 2 above. It's a hard wood deck and my decking boards will likely be 21-25mm (I will have them milled - was thinking 25mm). I'd appreciate any help on the best way forward and if the spans seem ok. I found this document to help: https://www.trada.co.uk/.../3809/design_a_deck_planning.pdf I was just going to get standard 2x6 for the sub-structure. (i'm in Amsterdam but the materials are largely similar to UK). thanks Neil

Isn't it all kinda bull$hit anyway, given you (customer) can stand in their conservatory (Which I assume did get approval)... and look in on the neighbours garden..... it's the same height as the deck.... or am i missing something? Neil

Decent idea, but unnecessary - the headspace will already be a bit tight (will be boxing the whole area in with a stud wall too)...... thanks!

Yes - I have special fasteners for that - that I used on my own floor (this jobs is for a friend). They come already with plug attached. So you SDS through the wood straight into the (concrete) sub-floor - and then put the fastener through the wood, into the concrete, tighten and it's all good ? - saves a lot of time too. Problem is, they are too short to put through the long end of the 4x2. I.e. a bit too short for 4". Theywouldl get through and then wouldn't have enough in the concrete. But I can just buy longer screws. It's no problem. It's the only way for these given the subfloor is concrete. thanks!

@TonyT - on the floating floor, how would you do that? Would you build a 2 x 4 frame - and get extra long fasteners to fix that frame to the floor... then fill with noggins? (so, short edge on the floor, 4" height). Or would you lay out the frame with the long edge down (I.e. 2" height) and double up. Attaching one to the other? I'm swithering best way - so keen to hear others thoughts? I need 80mm of clearance. It's a concrete floor - I have suitable fastening for that, but left over from a stud wall - so they wouldn't be long enough for 4" - but no problem to get some if necessary. thanks,

Thanks Tony. i was calling it a stud construction - but i meant what I think you have confirmed. Many thanks! Neil

Hi all, I want to raise a washing machine to avoid some pipes and allow me to push the machine further back, and then build a stud wall and door to conceal this washing machine. My questions are: 1. Will a stud type frame be sufficient (circa 250mm raise) to support the washing machine do you think? 2. Do you think it needs any lip on it to stop it moving? Will use ply as a base. many thanks, pics below, Neil Would like to raise up and pushback to avoid these pipes. Avoiding pipes to push this back. will then box in with stud wall.

we went for 3mm...... ends up being more than that. maybe 4mm or so - but looks decent. got more on back order. so the step will need to wait ..... and then i’ll hire the large manual cutter Fingers crossed there aren’t many breakages.

"I normally tile the up stands and use a gauge to square the step then tile the top of the steps You will need a tile with a fully glazed edge " Hi Nod, can you explain this to a layman? thanks! Neil

OMG.... I'm sorry for your loss! ? That is absolutely brutal. How were they stacked? Ours were on top of each other...... (I'm in Amsterdam). We have the same tiles for outdoor, but they have a 3cm concrete base - and a few of them were broken. Also stacked on top of each other and 90kg ea.

Challenge is, the step is over 3m long - it's unlikely i'll get a trim that long and a join will not look great..

Thanks, does look quite nice actually.....

Hi All, I have a step to tile - and I was wondering if you have any suggestions /tips /advice on how to finish the edge. It will have high traffic - it is a step from the living room to the (new) kitchen...... I had an old trim that I was trying out... the stylre works ok, but curious to hear your thoughts. I'm also worried a trim won't last the test of time..... Alternative is no trim - tile to tile - but it looks a bit $hit i think. Hope to hear, Neil

I'm going to go with the manual one I think.... I'm not overly bothered about a semi-rough edge, as they will mostly be hidden /room edge /grouted etc..... I'm just worried of breakages ?

hmmm.... yes, that's what I feared. Unfortunately - if mine don't break clean it's a wasted tile at this point ? Might not have any choice! thanks - looking forward to seeing your's finished! We have very similar tiles.....

Yea, I had a specific tile one. It gets better finish indeed (but slower).

Hi Wozza, is that just a manual tile cutter? ive a rubi one bit only good for 600. So i’ll need to hire one for larger. Have you had any /many breakages with the snaps/cuts? Neil

Yes, I am going to hire......my own rubi manual cutter only goes up to 60cm. I have seen this one (below). which I can hire relatively decent priced. Until now, I've been using my angle grinder with diamond blade - but it's messed up a few (luckily that can be salvaged for my step that I need to cut) but now I'm at point that breakages will be wasted tiles...... thanks! Neil

Hi All, I have 100 x 100 x 1 tiles. Ceramic. I've managed to do many of the cuts so far - but with some breakages unfortunately, but now I'm moving onto a step - and I want more guaranteed results. What would you recommend as the best device to use? - A manual tile cutter? - A table tile saw? I've only tiled a few times, and when I done my toilet - using the manual cutter, there were still some breakages. This could be down to my inexperience or maybe it's just part of the job... but, wondering what your experience is of such large tiles and the best tool to use for it? hope to hear, Neil

Unfortunately yes.... and I achieved that wonderful chip trying to retrieve one of these levelling clips ? In the end, we we were able to get them out or push them so far in they are covered with grout. Neil

Has anyone got any tips for removing levelling clips that have broken in situ?Im thinking just dampen then with a wet towel and try to manoeuvre? Ive managed to get some out. some are more stuck. first time using them. thanks.

I did. but there isn’t enough space with tile. back butter. adhesive layer and then the door edge......

Hi all, ive some large format floor tiles in the kitchen going down. 100 x 100. porcelain. Was doing some research. Some suggest epoxy grout. More expensive and less time to work with it. What are your thoughts? worth it or should i go for something else? thanks. Neil

haha. she’s checking out the paintwork

woz a; those are stunning. Very similar to ours...... dog was supervising. We have the same tiles outside the doors. the doors slide to open a 3.4m space. So have lined up the edges to match.