LSB

Hi guys, won't be there. why is it that life gets in the way of building life. All sorts of shit going on at the moment and build not really happening. I really thought when our daughters grew up it would get easier, but not at the moment. We'll be back to action at some point, but don't buy us a drink as it'll just be left for now.

We've been to a few shows, but found all windows / build kits and nothing really useful for physical self builders. At the time we wanted to talk foundations, drainage, build systems except timber frame & ICF. A bit of MVHR, but really just sales.

Check if you have CIL in your area. Good luck and welcome

unfortunately not as this is a conversion and the floor slab is already in situ hence drains on top of the foundations. We need something to get the drain drop and the height below the DPC

I am cutting a small channel through my foundations to run a 110 mm foul water drain. I need to get the top of the pipe 150mm below external damp proof. The concrete is as hard as hell. Question is do I need to allow any gap around the outside of the pipe top on bottom as it passes through the foundations at the bottom and the lintel that will run over the top or can get be a snug fit ?

another vote for JP metalworks. My husband worked in the factory opposite them for 10 years and they were always friendly and helpful.

Hello Our SE has specified a reinforced concrete (RC) slab with 2 layers of B1107 mesh with make-up of: castles 50mm up mesh chair 100mm mesh 50mm above totally 200mm How do I put 110 waste drain through this, as in is it okay to cut a channel and keep the integrity of the mesh. SE and BC both asked and both very reticent and slow with replies and we'd love to get on. There will also be 50 PIR above slab (more below already) and 50mm screed. Thanks

family stuff gone tits up so off to Bristol to try and help, so won't be there.

as usual it depends on work, but hope to

Hello We have an internal wall that will support the roof, these are 7.3 150 * 215 * 440 (so wide) hollow concrete blocks. What's the best way to join a 90 degree intersection with standard size blocks which are thermalite. These To these The concrete ones will be filled with mortar and will be the top of the 'T' for internal walls and the vertical of the T joining the cavity wall. rough picture below. The cavity wall also goes the bottom side of the celcon. Do we use one of these Or, tooth the blocks into each other.

We've been out of action for a bit with family, but let us know what's agreed and we'll try and come.

what's the plan guys, this week or next month this week now tricky, due to Sizewell taking over our airbnb and wanting us here to babysit Rumanians. When they offered us the money we thought 'great', but now it's becoming a bit of a pain and almost not worth it (until they have left) 8 weeks of them and they don't speak English and I don't speak Rumanian, and they eat smelly food 🙂

where and what time

I started this post out of interest, it's not meant in any way as a criticism of people who 'get others to do things'. If we won the lottery, more than a tenner 🙂 then I would try to persuade HID to do less and get more help, but he probably wouldn't as he doesn't trust others. He's there now on Sunday morning working on blocks for a tricky corner. That said I need to go to work at lunchtime, so not much difference except mine provides a tiny amount of money for bills.

I can't see you slowing down until it's finished and you are living a life of luxury in all those cafes in Woody.