LSB

Don't forget over the next 2 - 3 years prices will increase dramatically due to the Trump factor and oil. So, easy if these values work now then they won't be the future. Also, don't underestimate how hard it's going to be doing work evenings, holiday and weekends, what about your family. So, double that time.

WE used H&H lightweight for the U values, but they can be brittle, we have one break when drilling into to put in window frame (luckily temp one) and had to replace it. Anywhere that we are likely to hang things or need extra strength such as above windows and under the roof we use heavy blocks. So, before you proceed do check about this. WE are doing block / block 150mm cavity with insulation batts and this meets building regs.

Lovely to see how well it's going

Welcome to another 'Eat Anglian'

Welcome and good luck with everything you are doing.

Thanks, The wall that fell over was the old one that had been there since the 1960's and was a farm building so we've no idea of the make up. We were supposed to use the old ones as a conversion just with a 2nd cavity wall. To be honest we weren't that disappointed as it meant it could be done to modern standards 🙂 It was rebuilt before anyone came and saw it so looks just like the old one. This was just to demonstrate the winds that we can have being at the top of a hill with no protection. Nothing like Scotland I don't expect though 🙂 I've no idea what mix we are using now, I'll ask when I see 'the builder' aka hubby.

I've still got lots to learn.

We've been discussing this and like everything with building we are hitting a catch 22 situation. There are 3 parallel walls with one end wall at the moment to the East (phase 2). Phase 3 is still with the old single skin walls and concrete which all needs to be broken out and dug down to the right level which is about 1m+ Then the founds need to be poured down to 'good' soil which may be 2.5m + due to some clay. Our concern is that the 3 walls that have been done could potentially, without being braced, be unstable until the other end is done. This is not ideal but was the only option with renovating and underpinning. So, snug / hall are complete with posi roof and temp covering. The South wall (bed 3 right), East wall are done and North wall is under construction. But we then need to underpin bed 4, pantry, utility and West family wall (yes it does have the kick back from the barn) We want to brace the North to middle wall and the middle wall to South wall, the roof joists will be resting on the middle wall. the distance North to middle is 5.4m and middle to South 4.2m It is single storey. South is 11 blocks and North is 14 blocks, so difference is 3 blocks (not 2) so should be okay for roof slope and draining. Snug / Hall have their own roof which is lower than the height of the North wall. The striped walls are solid and existing, the pink ones will be stud walls and could move. The posi joists are made to measure allowing for the slope so we aren't keen on ordering the full one until we know the exact measurements. We have it specified and quoted, but don't want to say go until we are sure. Phase 3 (utility / family / pantry / bed 4) won't be built until spring / summer 2027 hence why we don't want to leave the other walls swaying in the wind until then. This phase 3 still has the existing roof which we use to protect saws, excavator, dumper etc so ideally we have the temp roof on master / office to protect from the rain. This is our catch 22 , without finishing we can't measure accurately, so we might have to pay for sacrificial joists just to brace the 3 walls, but that is expensive. Our site is windy and we did lose part of the North wall when it was 5 blocks high between some of the external doors in a gale last winter so we are not just panicking for nothing. It had not got to the stage of being braced, but the door wooden frames were in situ, but not to lintel level. Maybe this explains a bit more. Our BC and architect were all for knock down and build from scratch, but after spending over 4k on planning to do this (on top of already having spent 6k+ to get conversion planning) we gave up. The reason for refusal was that it was a new build in the countryside, even though we had planning to convert the barn. I understand that now it would be easier, but that ship has sailed. So, I hope this explains our predicament a bit more. i know that if we had contract builders it wouldn't be such as issue as it would be quicker, but as DIY these walls need to stand for another winter. So, suggestions greatly received. Thanks for all your comments so far.

I would like MVHR or similar, my hubby gets terrible hay fever and wants filtered air in the summer and doesn't want me to open the windows. the build will also be air tight so I don't want stuffy. But, what system we have is yet to be decided. The advantage with DIY is you are slow and have time, but there are so many considerations to everything.

Solar is in the planning, but very contradictory, just really just says that it should look like it did before, which it can't as none before. They also want ASHP, MVHR, rainwater harvesting etc and 2 EV chargers. Basically, none of the existing barn exists due to very shallow founds which we replaced and walls converted from single skin to cavity. Planning guy came round one day and said fine, carry on. BC is just concerned with the BC bits and architect has lost interest. That said, it does look like it did before, blocks with openings. It won't as we are having render and cladding, all approved. I think the planning just didn't want anything bigger or higher. Most of the current roof has been removed and the rest will in due course.

I will tell hubby this, but he probably won't agree 🙂 This is what we did on the small roof, the posi joists are in place with temp sheets.

Planning stipulates metal, to be replace like for like, although we won't be using the old tin shed look, but maybe profile steel. I had some quotes and they were scary so we might have to DIY. One company wanted 40k just for the roof, no solar and no batteries!!!!

This is the span, the width of this phase is 13m, the total width will be 24m. There are 2 spans as the middle wall will be the end of one bit of roof joist and the start of the other one, but the roofing sheets will be continuous, if we have enough long ones left from the barn, if not then overlapped. Low and wide.

Thanks @saveasteading having looked again, put some string lines from bottom to top we can get 5 degrees maybe even 6 with some consideration on wall plate thickness. So, pretty flat, we look over fields and are pretty rural and the neighbours are only interested in how we are progressing, I suspect that we could put tilted solar and no one would comment. They know our planning includes the 'new stuff' as they call it. But, our planning also stipulates a metal roof so I need to understand the weight of solar on this as it's a large span. I've not yet even got a definitive answer as to how many panels I need. I've spoken to a couple of local supplies and they are not interested, I suspect too complicated for them and they all deal with retrofit and not new builds. Thanks for everyones assistance in this.

Better picture of the roof being replaced. Apart from it becoming one roof our planning only allows this height so we can't raise the higher side for angle or reduce the lower side as limited head room inside.