Jase

Thanks both for your help so I'm not going mad after All?? Yes the hard core first sand ,DPM ,insulation DPM,SLAB, the concrete guys reckon they can get such a good finish I won't need a Screed! What you reckon? Allso does the insulation PIR have to be a certain spec?. Or just normal celotex or kingspan or simular?. Many thanks Jason.

Hi all replacing our kitchen floor in the next week or two due to damp issues, 1880s house. Only got 450 mm to play with . i have dug a test hole to see how deep the foundations are .building inspector said i need 150mm of hard core 25 mm sand 100mm insulation then 100 to 150mm of concrete. Went to order the 100mm pir insulation on line spoke to the guy to make sure it was the correct stuff to put under the concrete slab and he said the insulation has to go on top of the slab then screeded due to weight issues on the insulation! .Is this correct or have I got some of my wires crossed in conversation due the bloody stress of the house?. Or can it go under the slab, any advice would be greatly appreciated. Regards stressed Jason.

Thank you George for your reply, regards jason

Hi all what's the best Mot and sand to use for a new floor in a kitchen ? Regards jason.

Hi all planning to run copper pipe through stud wall to feed a new shower in the bathroom. Question is how can I reduce the chances of condensation building up in the stud wall from the cold copper pipe ? Using copper as not a big fan of the plastic stuff. Going to use sound proof insulation in the stud wall as it will back on to the now small box room.is there a chance this can get damp from contact with the cold pipe it's the wool type I am going to use . many thanks Jason.

Depends on the test hole dug really. Going to hire a electric wacker plate due to the fumes,was considering to steel mesh the concrete just to be on the safe side don't want any cracking or movement once the finished tiles are on the floor? I need to look into the regs regarding old buildings insurance guess or give the inspector a bell,as he seems a reasonable bloke,but thanks for you reply, regards jason.

Hi all I have posted about this b4 but now I'm that bit closer to start about putting in the new floor in the kitchen of our victorian house, had a builder in to finish taking down the old chimmney fire place in the kitchen due to shocking brickwork behind, looks like when next door did the same at some point in history the builder must have broken through to the back of our chimmney breast and when making good just chucked what ever was to hand. The problem lies were part of the wall is single brick ,I've got to do the digging out myself and lay the floor due to basically running out of money. Any advice would be greatly received about precautions to take how deep the foundations might be? The builder suggested to do a exploratory hole to see how deep the part wall foundations are. When the building inspector came last year to sign off a steel we had done i asked his advice about the floor as he used to be a builder, he suggested if memory serves 150 mm to 200mm hard core the 50 mm sand 100mm insulation then 100 or 150mm concrete but this seems to me that I will be well under the foundations of this old House? Any advice would be great regards jason.

Would you scrim the boards joints b4 putting on the blue grit or after?. Cheers jase.

Hi people got to board kitchen and bathroom with pink and green plaster boards. Is it correct these have to be primed first with pva mix or blue grit or simular products? Before skimming? Many thanks, regards jason.

Hi all Just need a little advice need to box in a steel upstairs. Going to timber the sides of the steel for the fire board but due to hight problem can I just glue on the fire board on the bottom face of the steel. Will this pass building inspection ?. Regards jason

Cheers folks

Hi folks doing the bathroom out upstairs only loo and sink in there at the mo so having a bath fitted with a mixer type shower now the room been made bigger . questions is can the bath be 15mm or does it have to be 22mm for flow rate etc. We have a new combi boiler fitted now. So hot tanks gone. Regards Jason.

Hi why do you want fire suppression fitted?. You need to look at how much you insurance will go up by having this fitted due to risk of flooding or accidental actuation of the system. Plus the cost of having it fitted. House fires do happen of course but these are usually down to arson ,bad house keeping overloaded plug sockets or careless disposal of smoking materials. Bit of subject I know sorry.

Thanks nick.

Thanks guys when you say pvc tape is that the same as electrical tape? Regards jason.

Hi all hopefully some one can help? Doing my kitchen out all the plaster is off the walls .The internal wall were the radiator is going had the old pipes running down the the wall which looked naff.so my question is can I chase out some of the brick out to allow the 15mm copper to run internally behind green plaster board?.If so is it best to lag the pipe so to reduce possible condensation causing issues ? Many thanks in advance Jason.

Thanks nod for your reply will the foil backed board cause condensation between the wall and the foil? ,regards jason.

Hi folks needs some good quality advice. Doing the kitchen out in our victorian house solid walls, had some damp issues which should be sorted when the new complete floor goes in .All the plaster and ceiling are down so going to board it out in plaster board only got one external wall so do you guys think I should use green board on this wall or some kind of board with insulation or vapor barrier? Don't really want damp issues again or mold behind the boards or kitchen cabinets want to get it right first go, or green board all the walls ? , kitchen will have a fan and cooker hood to shift cooking fumes and moisture ect, also going to use red boards on the ceiling due to bedroom above the kitchen, so do you recomend to double board it or just use 15mm boards? And should I insulate between the boards and floor boards to keep it warm and cut down on noise in the bedroom? Or will this cause possible condensation Issues? Many thanks guys Jason

True magic that's why we like the rose window company ones .But scary money but you get what you pay for really with most things.

Thanks nod looking good, will look into these. Regards jason.

Hi folks looking to replace dreadful 1970s aluminium windows in our victorian house, we are looking at putting upvc sash windows back in to try to bring the house back the way it should look,we have seen rose windows version all three price ranges, but want to know has anyone one out there had any dealings with these windows or had any problems with them?.we have also found on line Rehau window which look OK but haven't seen any in the flesh as yet to compare to rose windows, anyone got any good information regarding which of the a bove is proberly best to go for? We know it's not going to be cheap ?as the bay is nearly 6ft. Don't worry the doors going too. ? Regards jason.

Hi Ferdinand roof sound and drains ! I think apart from the drains do run àlong the length of the wall as seen in one of the pics from the down pipe.

Hi Tony thanks for your input ?

Hi Tony, I had not even considered insulation really. The old bread oven or what ever it is is going to be removed along with the chimney breast in the loft and rear bed room which share the same brick work for the chimney. This is just so the kitchen will be bigger and more practical really the walls are 9 inch thick give or take and the room is oblong when the fire place is removed,5.3 metres by 2.9 metres.with a small pantry attached which goes under the staircase ,regards jase

Hi all new to this site so hello from worcestershire. We moved the week b4 lock down so it's been a bit of a struggle really the house is liveable but needs a ton of work doing on it with not a huge budget ?. The kitchen floor is the main problem with blown plaster and mold behind the kitchen units which have now all been removed .so we only have a sink in there now. The previous owner (decreased estate) tried to have the problem solved at some point the walls were cement rendered the first 3 foot or so then plastered. The floor has had a plastic sheet membrane put down then concreated over, poorly done, as you will see from the pics you can see the moisture coming through.The air brick fitted to the out side has no vent on the inside !!! I have lowered the out side floor level by pulling up the blue pavers that were tight to the wall and I believe above the old slate dp course. Also at some point the bricks have been drilled and injected. So down to the main question for you guys is how far do I have to dig down once the existing concreat has been removed what do I have to put down and depth make the floor good b4 the new concrete floor is laid, how thick does the concreat have to be? and will it have to be the screeded afterwards or can I get away with the concreat only if laid well and level?.Also was going to board it out with green plaster board what you you guys think.any advice greatly appreciated. Regards jase.