daunker

Yeah so mine is a single storey so only like 3mm differential. The tolerance is 12-15mm and sealed with that expanding tape you refer (keep cool before use). It's what velfac recommend. So I think it'd be grand. Just surprised no one suggested it above?

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I am positioning my windows. And having similar dilemas. Why wouldn't you pull the windows say 30-40mm forward in the first post such that they can be sealed against the stone, but still are fixed on brackets to the timber. The window depth would still overlap the cavity and timber frame and insulation. A compromise but insulation would still overlap so not a horrendous cold bridge. It's what I was planning to do so surprised no one suggested or is there a reason I'm missing?

Was reading on here into the small hours, and thinking why don't I put the 50mm celotex on the outside of timber frame rather than the inside. Ie: existing Block, 25mm ventilation gap, 50mm celotex, breather membrane, 12mm ply, 140m timber frame with frametherm, ply, vcl, plasterboard. Could then insulate the soleplate externally and also the entire Frame? Is there a reason more don't do this?

Lovely thank you, I drilled and chemfixed previously which worked well so will repeat that then 👍🙂

I'm doing a conversion and building timber frame inside existing 140 dense blockwork building I've read about problems with condensation on soleplate occuring. What is the standard block below soleplate. I had been hoping to use thermalite or equivalent. I looked up marmox thermoblock, and they have detail below. Whilst I can see there is advantage to having it below soleplate it doesn't mitigate the cold hitting the front face of the soleplate. I had thought that air temperature on this face might be more prone to dropping below the dew point and does this not have same condensation risk as from below? If condensation is not an issue then I can sort out cold bridge with rigid insulation on internal face of the frame? The thermoblocks are expensive and I was rather thinking that whilst they may be a better option. Is it reasonable to just have thermal lightweight blocks below soleplate. And are there any specific ones recommended. I've read on here of many 'blowing out'. It's only single storey and doesn't support roof etc. Thanks!

Should point out it's just foot traffic outside area won't be vehicles parked/driving on its does that influence the grids, the neighbour has them seems to work for cars

Hi I have an area at back of property which I have put on type 1 and intend to whack. My hope was to slab some of it but funds won't go that far. I was going to put terran membrane down after whacking it and then have been suggested to use driveway (self binding) gravel, rather than clean loose stones (which are problematic to contain and less comfortable to walk on). But Im concerned a self-binded solution won't 'look as good' i've seen the stuff used for paths and seen it puddling in heavy rain and imagine even when damp it'll track into the house. Wondering about a skinnier base and then a top dressing of the 20mm size stones/gravel perhaps with a gentle whack? Or is there a better option. It's about 5x20m so a big area! The other thing is I'm not sure how to edge it, was minded by the modern 'sleepers' as easy/quicker to put down than edging stones and will last fairly well. I appreciate a lot down to personal preference but would really value any insight on it, it's rented out ATM so budget conscious and open to all ideas. Fingers crossed! Thanks

Thanks this is what I'm thinking. Will pick one up tomorrow, and some new pipe 🤦‍♂️

Thanks! Happy days that's what I have- thank you!! I mean it was a swept tee when I said it's fitted the right way around. Outfoxed by terminology will remember that thank you! The first bathroom with the rest bend is the main ensuite one so probably primary anyway. Would have needed a longer pipe length if it was a y-junction required!

I've read the building regs guidance about y junctions under buildings but I think this is where two horizontal runs connect and then not able to rod both. I am converting a building so wanted both bathrooms on the same run as only have to cut the slab once and go under cast founds. Is this ok? I've searched here fairly extensively and think it is. Should I have used a Y and then 45 bend rather than a T triple socket equal junction (it's the right way round) for the second bathroom? Thanks! There's an IC about a metre outside the building. I've Building Control coming on Friday would like everything to be right as I plan to fill with pea to crown as Friday afternoon is wet weather coming. Thanks!

I've read the building regs guidance about y junctions under buildings but I think this is where two horizontal runs connect and then not able to rod both. I am converting a building so wanted both bathrooms on the same run as only have to cut the slab once and go under cast founds. Is this ok? I've searched here fairly extensively and think it is. Should I have used a Y and then 45 bend rather than a T (it's the right way round) for the second bathroom? Thanks!

Thanks I would have liked to. But because its a vaulted ceiling and conversion of existing the height at the entrance/low side, I'm on my limit for allowance with 150mm insulation and screed, plus coming down 50mm+timber. My plan was where the exposed steels from the portal frame are to have thicker insulation, and box around them slightly oversized, somehow making a feature whilst taking out the cold bridge to allow me to run cables up, and then I would just channel out a groove left to right through insulation required for cables to light fittings which would be surface mounted, which I'm planning to be as few as required (ie larger) Is this allowed? My alternative is to perhaps run the lights on wire side to side.

Was just too expensive, and the trial pack of knauf Omnifit worked perfectly. Then got a great price on a few pallets of rockwool rwa45, 'the same' 🙈🤦‍♂️ and it's the one which sags

Have excess black fibreglass insect mesh, will try this! Thank you!

Converting an existing building, I have been putting 140mm frametherm 32 between purlins and then 75mm rockwool batts below. 600mm c/c I have trimmed the rockwool batts. However there is some sag, some worse then others. Due to budget constraints I'll not be able to put ceiling finish (timber not plaster due to building movement) for some time. But I do have the 50mm PIR sheets to go under the rafters. Is it strong enough to support it, or will it flex too much? Suggested number fixings per sheet? Was going to use penny washers/insulation discs. (Also while on topic anyone done a timber ceiling finish, and can suggest any good wood options)