sphannaby

Nick, I'm looking at starting tiling my bathrooms. I'm just having standard shower trays but the ones that SWMBO don't come with integrated upstands. What are the general thoughts on best way to tile a standard try, would it to be use a supplementary upstand device, something like this: https://www.bellabathrooms.co.uk/classi-seal-shower-tray-and-bath-sealant.html Or is it just a case of using a specific double sealing method?

Cheers nick you are a star.

Not sure if I'm imagining things but I seem to remember someone recommended some shower tray wastes that are fully accessible from the top so if anything goes wrong down the line there is no need to get underneath the shower tray. If so can anyone point me in the right direction? Cheers

Pipestock also get a recommendation from me. Saleswoman I spoke to was very knowledgeable. She specified a very neat solution for my old alkathene main incomer which was significantly better in price than anyone else could offer. When having a bit natter with her about other things too she highly recommended the Philmac and Plasson equipment.

One manifold is 2 metres away the other one is 10 metres. Yes both are 22mm flow/returns. BTW, I have got some spares ran to pretty much all locations but I don't want to waste one of my spares before I have started. Nice to know they'll still be spare until I find the next gadget I want to install.

No he didn't mean the manifold pump Nick he was talking about another pump to be located at the TS. He stated you always need another pump from a cylinder as the manifold pump is not strong enough to pull through direct from a cylinder by itself. I stated it was a thermal store rather than a cylinder and this blew his mind i think. FYI, this is a new install going on at present. Just wanted to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before the plasterers box in my last wiring route to my manifold.

Hi, Just have a query about my wiring centre for my UFH. Its a UFH2 by Heatmiser which now seems to be discontinued. I've tried speaking with Heatmiser tech support but they were not much help at all. The problem seems to be they can't understand the theory for how it should work with a thermal store. Attached is the only literature I got with the UH2, there is no description of what the logic is within the board. My guess so far has been that because I am using a TS which is temperature controlled with my system boiler I would not need to use any of the connections for the boiler enable, hot water valve or cylinder thermostat on the UH2. The Heatmiser guy was insistent that I should use the hot water valve signal because I will need to trigger the external pump at my TS. From what i remember Nick explaining to me with a TS I would not need an external pump as the TS pressure in conjunction with the UFH pump would be enough to draw through the water. With that logic then my thermostats would simply enable the UFH pump and whichever zone is demanding heat. Does this sound correct or will I be needing any extra signal? Cheers

Yeah I've got all that figured but I will just have to use some home made switches rather than something like the PZ-60 as from what I can see about the PZ-60 there is no way to get a volt free signal from the PZ-60. I don't really have an issue with this but it would be much neater if I could have used something like the PZ-60. For the logic with having ground on more than one pin it just uses the highest speed.

I am away with work at the minute so can't get a picture but I've took an exert from the manual which shows how the 50RSDCE is supposed to be wired. As you will see the TM2 and TM3 are the terminals for speed selection and bypass mode, these are just dry contats but have to share the same common so I'm not sure how the PZ-60 could work with this as it only has a 2 wire communication cable for all signals from what I can gather.

Hi again guys, apologies for not getting back sooner but I've had a hectic month which included a holiday, some frantic work in the house to finish 1st fix and then a nice bout of food poisoning! Anyway back on topic. The MVHR model which I have (and believe many from ebuild also go) was the Mitsibushi LGH-50RSDCE From what I gathered I thought the PZ-60 and PZ-61 were only suitable for the RX5 series of Mitsi MVHR as these controllers use a 2wire communication whereas the 50RSDCE model that I have just has dry contacts for the control signals. Unless what you are saying is that it is possible to add a 5 pin socket to the 60 or 61 which offers the dry contact functions. If this was the case that would be perfect and if thats what you have a wiring diagram of Peter it would be greatly appreciated if you could share. Cheers.

Hello all, I know like me a lot of the ebuild regulars managed to get a deal on the Kingspan/Mitsi MVHR units. I'm about to complete 1st fix on mine and was wondering how people went with the control of these from remote locations? I tried to keep an eye out for the 'official' controllers but there have been none for sale anywhere (i think Joe90 got the last one that was on ebay). Anyway I came up with a few possibilites but for now I have just made sure I have ran plenty of cable to the correct places to cover me should things change. What I probably will do is use a standard single gang back box and have a blank plate which I will drill out to take a rotary switch and some rockers (purchased from Farnell). For the boost areas I am think of using intermediate lighting switches and have one pole for my lighting circuit and the spare pole as a volt free contact for MVHR, another option for this is some battery powered time delay switches I have found which have a set of volt free contacts but this means another switch in WC, utility, etc and things could start to get a bit cluttered. All wiring is going back to a junction box next to the MVHR to allow for paralleling if needed and future expansion. I'd be interested to see how some of the others have done it and how they have found it in real life.

Exciting times mate. I really look forward to working on the house and some of the challenges have been really interesting. Total opposite to my 'proper' job at the minute and i'm seriously considering a career change once we have the house complete (don't tell SWMBO though!)

Have to say I'm over joyed that someone has taken up the challenge of setting up buildhub after the sad demise of ebuild. I stumbled upon ebuild after we had started the extension/renovation we have going on in the NE of England. For me it was a revelation and I only wish I had found it so much earlier as it would have changed a lot of the things we had already done/designed. Luckily I managed to adapt a lot of the project to take on some new principles and I'm happy so far with how things have been going (although I am no where near the PH standard of some of the regulars). I'm currently waiting on a helicopter to get me back onto dry land and then I'll be travelling home to get stuck back into some proper work. This week I'll (hopefully) be finishing 1st fix wiring and MVHR in preparation for boarders and plasterers coming in next week. (I managed to get on of the cheap Mitsi MVHR units from major Tom that I know a lot of the ebuild regulars got) I'm sure I'll be firing some questions out over the next few weeks and I'm also going to try and get some pictures up of my progress.